"O" ringing Hemi Head and Block

I’m looking to “O” ring my Hemi motor, A friend says he will throw it on his CNC and do it for free if I can get the specs. He is already decking the head and the block for me. I would have to assume all Hemi heads the rings are supposed to be placed in the same location so they can interchange from block to block and not be forever tied to a certain block? What size groove do we cut for the receiver groove? How deep? How deep in the head? I was told to use “D” shaped wire I the head it will seat much better, where do I get it? Thanks

Is that even done anymore? Thought that was old school with the gaskets we have now. Sorry, I don't have any info on o ringing the heads.

yeah, I had cometics in it, at 30 lbs of boost, I was told going to 45 pounds this year I have to O ring it

http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_content/products/blocktooling/org.php

What makes go in this direction? Have you been having issues with head gaskets? I had o-rings,tigged them closed and milled the head.

Thanks

I did melt the head and the block last year when the gasket went out, but it was cause from the car finally starting to hook, G force started to pull my fuel shut off lever off causing it to lean out. My friend that tours the country tuning Blown Promods says it should be mandatory at the new level

On my 500, the Indy heads had O rings in them, but not the block. It adds extra crush to seal the cylinders. I used a Flatout Gasket rubberized copper gasket. Sealed motor well at 14:1, but did have to add some extra silicone around the water ports. Probably because my deck surface was too rough on the block. Anyway, I don't think it is necessary to O ring both surfaces. Cut groove about 60-70% deep of wire diameter.

I would say you are making the right choice by going with o ringed copper. My personal opinion is to cut a receiver grove in the head, and the o ring in the block/ sleeve. The receiver groove distorts the gasket to prevent any straight path for combustion gases to escape.
At the level you are at, I wouldn’t do it any other way.

In the old days there was a standard o-ring size/location on top of the sleeve and then a matching receiver groove in the head. You are wise to try to follow a standard path. But nowadays it seems everybody wants to be different and it makes things a lot harder. I had a new billet Pro Mod Hemi in the other day that had the old, old way of oringing the heads. It drives you crazy. Try to find out the closet thing to "standard" and go with it.

Funny how LEAN really is MEAN!!,,,,,,,,,,NOT!!!!

^^
That is your answer. Good copper gasket. I had my Indy block done and receiver groove in the heads. .043 wire. I will see if I can get specs as to depth of the oring groove and receiver groove for you.

Cody

Thanks, a outside diameter would be great too

I always ran the wire in the heads and left the groove in the block as the receiver groove.

The reason is you can get the wire very close to the edge of the chamber (especially with some wedge heads) and the wire helps support the groove. If there is no wire in the groove and it gets a little hot in that area it can fold up quicker without the wire in it.

I always grooved the block, put some rings in the block that weren't butted up and then put some bluing on the heads. I'd then bolt the head down and it would leave an impression where the groove should be.

Then up in the manual mill, indicate everything in and center the tool holder that was made to be used in the mill and cut the grooves.

SCE gaskets sells some copper head gaskets with the stainless steel O rings already embedded in them
They work well

If they hold up , sounds like a better solution to me.

I found someone to explain it to me,
He said to use .041 wire and cut groove .039 wide, let the wire come out .010 to .012 out of the head. The receiver groove in the block needs to be .051 wide and .020 deep.
He says the O ring always goes in the head and not the block, reason being is the the sleeve is hard and won’t distort and neither will the head with the ring in it, if you do it the other way what happens is the receiver groove in the aluminum of the head is soft, when the gasket gets stuffed into the edges of the receiver groove takes all the pressure and start to distort causing problems that can’t happen if the groove is in the block

That's correct. I didn't know you wanted wire diameter etc. That guy gave you the straight poop.

It's going to fly at 45 PSI

I like the way you think, lol. It will be a cooler charge to spinning the blower slower, How much boost are you hit your's with?

18 to 22 psi

Sounds like you have most of what you need to know. I am still supposed to hear back Monday on what my specs are. I will be in front of the block tomorrow and I will take measurements of the overall diameter if you still want. My bore is 4.505

Thanks, I'm well on the way. Mine is also 4.505 bore