426 Hemi Rocker stands, Original or Aluminum?

If one were to build a stock 426 or even a stroked 472 Hemi for the Street using a cast iron block and Mopar Performance aluminum heads, is there any preference to using the cast iron original stands vs. using aftermarket aluminum rocker stands on the aluminum heads?

The reason I ask, I have a couple sets of both and wanted to sell a set. Not sure which to let go. Thanks.

The OEM cast steel or ductile iron stands are a lot stronger than any of the after market aluminum stands currently out there for stock heads
Street and strip motors will live forever with the stock stands
I have 5 or 6 broken(cracked) aluminum race stands that are collecting dust, I've never seen any stock cast stands broken from normal use, not on a blown fuel motor that hydraulic, in other words

X2 - the aluminum stuff is highly stressed, it can't be made thicker to compensate for the reduced stiffness (steel vs. aluminum bending resistance = 3:1).

Good to know, thank you both very much.

I have KB aluminum stands on my 572" hemi that have been used since 2006 w/ no trouble at all. 276/284 solid roller, 220 psi seat, 600+ psi open pressure.
As heavy as everything is for a hemi, I'd use the aluminum stands as long as they're decent quality parts.

The anodized aluminum stands are much sexier looking. That's all I need to know.

I'm always looking for ways to make my car lighter. The aluminum stands are an easy and obvious way to do so. So far, I've never had a problem with them.

Me too! When i went to aluminum heads & rocker stands the weight saving was close to 90 lbs.With everything else I did the total loss was 200 lbs!

I think the Barton is about as good looking as you can get - but it is heavy because of the bed plate

I agree on the Barton's. I am not that concerned with weight. My car is still a street car, no lightweight anyway being all steel, all glass & full interior.

If your wanting to rev your old 426 type Hemiroid motor up past 7000 RPM the Barton and other single rocker per shaft systems are the best way to go If you want to keep it under 7500 RPM the stock type systems work well for that application, with the proper parts

It would be nice if Ray Barton offered a lighter version of his rocker setup made from 7075-T651 Aluminum.(For the light weight guys)

Mine Petered out at 7900 on motor on the dyno with my little ole street nitrous cam.

How did it peter out, did it quit gaining power or did a part fail?
I remember when Don Purdhome (SP?) switch from a stock set of pushrods on his 1968 top Fuel dragster at Orange County testing one night to a set of B&B single tapered pushrods and gained 500 RPM, went from 7000 RPM to 7500 RPM
426 Hemiroid motors and their stinking stock valve train can be a real pain to make work well for higher than 7000 RPM

quit gaining power