Best way to attach windage tray inside oil pan'm sic

I'm tired of sandwiching the windage tray and using double gaskets and tons of RTV to seal my oil pan. MY buddy is going to machine a half inch aluminum plate, drill holes in it and put in O ring grove. I will cut the top of my pan off and weld this on. I hear some people install the windage tray inside the oil pan so it doesn't get sandwiched in there. What is the best way to attach it? I'm a little worried about losing hardware inside the pan. Pics would be great, thanks

I use a full length Milodon pan that has the windage tray held in on Dzus fasteners. I have a crankscraper siliconed to the bottom of the block. That usually stays in place, but if you have to pull one, you usually have to pull the other.
I'm sure you could change out some main cap hardware and attach a windage tray to the main studs like a small block.

Why not follow the crowd and attach it inside the oil pan with Dzuz fasteners like most of the better drag race oil pan makers do

I like that idea, I have threaded holes in the mains so I can pull them

I'm asking because I have never seen it done before. I have only ever used the sandwich style. I was hoping for a pic, to copy how it was done

I'd check Milidon site. That's who's I have. Its on the car or I'd show you.

Jegs windage molded tray / pan gasket:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/502000/10002/-1

Here ya go

This will work great on a fabbed or cast pan. Not a stamped one.

Thanks Chuck, That helps me get a plan. I have a homemade custom pan

I have had ZERO leakes on several builds with these modern O ringed double lipped windage trays. Mancini has them.

I never had a problem with the newer style, "double o-ring" deal either. I do know some guys that didn't have the same experience. That is a way cool deal with the tray in it!

Mounting to the puller holes in the main caps would eventually break due to harmonics.

That is very kool, I have never seen those before. I think I might have to try that before moving on to something else. I had a aluminum one for years I used with the big stroker crank but I'm down sizing to a 4.15 this year

Yikes

I will be sure to remove those bolts before we go to dyno

Thanks for the heads up

I used the molded gasket / tray like pictured above with the Mopar Reproduction Hemi oil pan in the '69 Coronet, Seals better than anything I used before.

I use a crank scraper sandwiched with an aluminum pan.Superperformance gaskets and it's dry as a bone.

I run no upper windage tray or crank scraper. Charlies pan with a screen bolted in. 7100 every pass, no issues with oiling
Doug

I think the screen will have some effect, almost like a windage tray. IMHO I wouldn't run without one, at least with with any sort of stroked motor. We have a 5.0 stroke 655 that basically runs the same pan and oiling system as our 572 (4.5 x 4.5). The pan is custom, long length but shallow for ground clearance. We couldn't swap over the windage tray that we use in the 572 for obvious reasons so we ran without it in the 655. We used to lose oil pressure in the shutdown, it didn't drop to zero but it used to get low (down to 15psi). At idle, hot it's around 45psi. This never happened with the 572. We also run an accumulator. Bearings looked fine on strip down, we didn't do that many runs that season anyway but we are getting a custom tray/scraper built. I see it as cheap insurance on wet sump systems.

Windage trays and crank scrapers need to be as close as possible to the crankshaft. Locating them deeper into the oil pan negates their purpose. Putting O rings between the block and tray or scraper will make it easier to remove the pan and tray as a single unit. If your scraper is a close fit, using dowel pins for proper location is highly recommended.

Educate me some, crank scraper "I believe" is to take oil off the crank to lighten it and bring more horse power?
Originally I thought the windage tray cut down on internal windage to make more power. My ProMod buddy says it's mandatory I put one in or 8500 RPM's will be blowing oil out of the pan everywhere causing issues. If that is the case, why does it need to be so close?

I make my own crankshaft scrapers, I shoot for .030 to .060 on steel rod motors. On your deal I would probably shoot for .090+ on the scraper with aluminum rods and .500 minimum on the windage tray to all of the rotating parts I do add .500 drain back holes on mine also on the oil pan block rail side, 8 total spaced between the main cap bosses
I've seen witness marks on stock windage trays with stroker motors that had .200 + clearances on the engine stand

I would have to assume one like they posted from Mancini with the built in O rings most likely won't have enough clearance and it's best to build one?

Just make one like the one shown Jeff! I think that all you are worried about is the crank picking up the oil out of the pan. Here are some more ideas...

[quote=Dave Hall]Just make one like the one shown Jeff! I think that all you are worried about is the crank picking up the oil out of the pan. Here are some more ideas... [/quote
Thanks flater pan look easier, Maybe I'll just cut out my aluminium one and weld some square tubes across it to attach it to

Sounds to me like you just need a better oil pan. They are available from a number of sources. I have used Williams and Billet Fab and been very happy

I would have to chop it up to fit around the tube K member and steering rack, It would be a lot easier just to ad a windage tray inside the one I have