Neutral safety switch connection in racecar?

Anyone have a reliable way to connect to the center prong so it does not come loose easily? I do not have or use the 3 prong plug that connects to the backup lights and neutral safety switch in a stock application. Have been using little cheap connector but it keeps coming loose. Nothing like having to crawl underneath the car in the staging lanes!!! Would a older 727 unit single connection work better and if so where would I get one?
Thanks Mike

The three prong wiring pigtail is available at auto parts store. I got one at Oreillys a couple years back. Part# pt5667. Borg Warner

I have soldered a wire to the center pin before. That worked out good.

ACDelco PT2139 amazon 21.90

What kind of shifter? Often times it's easier to use a shifter mounted switch. If the car is using the stock harness and starter relay, then a new 3 wire plug will fix you up. NAPA ECH EC187 Advance PT5667

I went with this newer style N safe switch on my old car and got the pigtail at work for it. That old style connector was a joke.

what is the application for that switch ?

"I went with this newer style N safe switch on my old car and got the pigtail at work for it. That old style connector was a joke. "


J body. Will this fit 727? Have a part Number? Pig tail that fits this?

Thanks Mike

I think i have a extra one let me ck if so you can have it i can mail it to you

Looks like an Autozone pt.# is CR446 for the switch and 1070 for the connector kit. Mid 2000s RWD truck

I use a blue butt connector on the center pin and crimp it down to where it snaps off and on. Seems to work so far.

"I use a blue butt connector on the center pin and crimp it down to where it snaps off and on. Seems to work so far."

That is what I have been doing but not having a lot of luck with that last year. The pins on my current switch are not in good shape so I am looking for something to permanently fix problem.
That new switch and plug looks like what I am looking for. Hope it works in 1967 727.
Mike

If the '67 727 has the original style valve body and rooster comb (middle in the pic below), it's not really compatible with the 3-prong switch.

Pre-'69 uses the single threaded stud switch.

"If the '67 727 has the original style valve body and rooster comb (middle in the pic below), it's not really compatible with the 3-prong switch."

"Pre-'69 uses the single threaded stud switch."

Don't know what style rooster comb but now it has a transbrake valvebody. It has a 3 prong switch and the center prong works for the neutral safety . I tried using a 3 prong plug and wiring to all 3 wires separately but none of them seemed to work.
If that single stud style with a nut worked on my tranny I would be very happy.
Mike

CMcallister nailed it.... same switch that was on my diesel, and I'm betting your t-brake looks like the linkage to the right in Johns picture.

Remove the switch and look in the hole; compare what you see to my pic.

On a race car I would use the neutral safety switch that is probably built into your aftermarket shifter to ground out the wire that now runs to factory switch. Then put a o-ring plug in the factory switch location.

Removed the switch and it is a blue A&A transbrake valvebody showing. .Can't tell what the rooster tail looks like. I think I am just going to Gorilla glue a connection to the center prong and be done with it.
Mike

Make sure that Gorilla glue is NOT a insulator

What you're seeing is the plastic shoe on the rooster comb, they come in several colors. The single threaded stud switch (center in my pic) will work with the plastic shoe.

Thank You John!!!
Mike

John, where are you getting the single threaded switches? I had one go bad a while back and haven't been able to find any.

They are getting kinda rare and the prices reflect that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1967-1968-...ar/352290818819