Performer deep runner porting

I need to deep port match the runners on a edelbrock performer 318/360 Intake to match the larger ports on my heads

How deep is deep and what tooling would you recommend ?

You can buy 6" long rotary bits for cutting
alum or steel.. I also have 12" long arbor
when using tooste rolls for porting... all
are used with either a air or electric.. I
use both a lot of times... all 1/4" shanks

$15 a pop on ebay, 6 inch long for die grinder. If you always do al. you will never wear them out. They work good on cast too but will get to a dull point.

They also sell sets with 2 long and 4 short

But one point, one round is all you need. Really either one would do it in a pinch.

When doing aluminum, be careful about loading up the bits and not cleaning them out with a scribe. I have a 5K rpm air drill that I use for most roughing in with the carbide cutters, I found that the 20K die grinders took off too much material too fast, and they liked to bounce around too much. A little slower = a little more control. The die grinders work good with the sanding rolls though. Tim

Keep dipping the cutter in WD-40 will really help keep the aluminum from building up in the flutes.

Awhile back there was a comprehensive thread here on the different types/uses for porting burrs (for faster work/longer life). If my printer was up I wanted to print it out.

By the time you buy everything I could have already had it done cheaper and in less time

My shameless get work post for 2017

Have a good port matched gasket to the heads
and make sure the bolt holes line up well.. then
transfer that to the intake.. blend it in as far
as possible

All the good aluminum cutters have a lot bigger cutter edges on them and are further a lot further apart than the one shown in that picture. Those type are for steel, iron and other harder metals than aluminum
As far as keeping the aluminum from sticking to the bits using candle wax or parafin to coat them frequently helps a lot I roll the bit in it by hand before starting and again as needed

All the good aluminum cutters have a lot bigger cutter edges on them and are further a lot further apart than the one shown in that picture.

Tell that to the 30 plus manifolds ive worked on and 11 sets of al heads and 8 sets of iron heads.

Just a personal preference that dont dig supper hard and leave a good finish without needing any touch up of any kind. Maybe one time an hour I might have to take 5 seconds on a fine wire brush or hit them with an air hose.

I know your old and wise Cab but there is more then one way to skin a cat.

I rarely use the wider aluminum burrs either. I use a mixture of WD40 and transmission fluid and port at a slower speed than a lot of guys do as I do it for recreation and not money. My Foredom grinder has a foot pedal to control the speed and with using the finer tooth (cast iron burrs) I usually don't even need a sanding roll job after I am finished.

Yes

Porting tools 005_zpsjgwy0cgl by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Porting tools 004_zpslw8s6tvt by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Porting tools 003_zpsmmyaskap by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Porting tools 002_zps56hn5i69 by John Cadamore, on Flickr

John you turned me on to the idea of the $20 router speed control from HF for my electric. works like a champ! Able to control the bounce and the aggressiveness with the speed.

They work great but if you want to go the next step buy a foot pedal off ebay and really enjoy variable speed.

I'll look into that once it's warm enough to get back to the shop! Cutter bounce is nothing compared to shivering.

LOL Now that is funny.
The shivering gets worse as I get older too.

Straight low budget here... my $8 pawn shop die grinder and I think my cutters actually came from harbor freight, maybe fifteen years ago, but they work good still.

LOL.. you got that right.. thats why I built a new shop
that has in floor heating.. love it.. I work in a tee shirt
all winter(today started out at -9*)

McMaster carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/#dremel-compatible-carbide-burs/=1avw4re1

https://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-burs/=1avw5v2

FWIW, I use Eastwood's Grinder Grease (looks like wax in a grease cartridge) to treat my standard-style burrs before using them on aluminum. I run them at low speed against the GG to fill the gaps between the flutes, then clean them with a wire brush and re-treat them regularly during use to avoid clogging. If I have to use a pick to get out aluminum from between the flutes, I waited too long between cleanings.

I like the cuttered finish and better control with these types of burrs, but a non-ferrous burr with the wider spaces between flutes can remove material far more quickly. Also, I suggest people try burrs with different designs (single cut, double cut, etc.) to get a feel for how smoothly they cut and their respective surface finishes.

one thing to remember when using a grinder and burr, let the tool do the work, don't horse it ! you will get much better results. also remember to use eye and nose/mouth protection. eye slivers and lung infections from inhaling iron/aluminum dust are not fun things to get corrected. if this has been mentioned before, sorry, but it bears repeating.

The problem with those 6" stem single flute cutters is that they need some RPM to work on heat treated aluminum. With RPM comes the possibility of chatter.

One day, I was cleaning up the flash in my 400-2 Indy intake and my 6" single flute started to bounce on the end of my Makita electric die grinder. When it bounced the shaft bent slightly, vibration started and it was time to abandon ship. The head of the burr broke on about the third bounce. When that happened the shaft went about 45 degrees and now you have a 20k rpm airplane in your hands lol.

Thankfully I always use a long extension cord (safety first!) and was able to toss the grinder onto the grass while it decided what it was doing and I could get it unplugged.

Moral of my story is a) don't have me do port work b) careful with any tool that lacks a paddle or dead man switch and c) don't buy cheap burrs.

very good points on using the long burrs jeremiah. and i am very concerned with using 1/8" mandrel [dremel size] burrs because they bend/break MUCH easier than 1/4" shank burrs. another thing to consider is making sure your work piece is clamped securely so you have complete control over the tool you are using instead of trying to juggle holding the piece and controlling the tool at the same time.

1/8 inch burrs are for arts and crafts. Not porting heads and if it’s getting away from you slow it the hell down.

well said !

Thanks for the info.

I ordered some long cutters with bigger flutes for aluminum.

Likely be better off getting a used rpm or similar Intake but it will be fun to try.
I've read a deep ported performer will put flow a std rpm Intake.

Any thoughts on milling the plenum divider down ?

I've heard it's a good move on small blocks