Setting up front end for early B bodys for bracket racing

I need a little help in building my 65 Plymouth bracket car. The car is being built to perform in the 10.0 range using Caltracs and mono leafs. I am beginning to turn my attention to the front end now. What are some of the issues I will be facing when setting the front end up for racing? I understand the early B body parts are different then the later years. Do I stick with the stock geometry or update to the later one? What about oil pan and fitment issues? Should I use stock alignment specs? I will be using an engine plate so I might be able to move it back some. Any advice or recommendations would be welcome.

The only difference besides motor mounts is the single stud idler arm. 6 cylinder bars will have the most stored energy to help pitch rotate. Use offset upper control arm bushings from Moog to gain caster. I shortened my strut rods 3/8" by cutting off the ends. Then turned them down in a lathe. Slid .090"×.750" Moly tubing over the ends then welded. This gained caster as well. The outer tie rods are replaced with custom fabbed tie rod sleeves, Speedway tapered studs, and heim joints. This was done to obtain zero toe throughout front travel. To be honest it wasn't to bad to start with. Along with good shocks will do it. Cut the K-frame to get at the pan easier. Mine regularly runs 145+, sons runs 138+
Doug

use a 68 and up k frame.it moves the motor back 2 inches but leaves all the steering components in the later b location,way easier to find headers oil pans motor mounts etc.also use a set of RMS strut rods.They have heim ends combined with the engine set back will make the car killer consistent.

I believe the 1966 and later B body K frames move the motor back but the 1968-1971 have the better idler arm support than the 1966/67 do

I'll be using a motor and mid plate so moving the engine back will not be an issue with regards to K frame. I am more concerned with geometry and making the car consistent as well as any issues with oil pan and any interference with the center link. I'd like to do this one time instead of trial and error. My kid will be moving up to this car from Jr Dragsters in the next year or so, so whatever I do it needs to be both safe and consistent. This is my first real "race" car build as opposed to the several street car/restorations that I have done in the past. It's been a learning experience so far. The one thing I have learned over the years is to learn from other people's mistakes.

I'd like to know more about how the strut rods improve the reaction of the car. How do you adjust them for optimal performance? What are you looking for in how the car reacts?

a factory type strut rod is basically mounted solid front and rear.not very condusive for front end rise,the heim ends on the front of the RMS rodsallow the car to rise freely in the front and rotate to the rear wheels.if you want to make mopar rear suspensions work you must concentrate on the front also.the magnumforce upper control arms with rod ends helps even more.once you jack a Chrysler up with stock strut rods and upper control arms then switch to the others you would see a huge difference as to how easily you get separation of the suspension which lets the front end rise and you get weight transfer

Both My sons car and mine run stock arms. We've found even with stock bushings and bind the front end still rises to quick. Front rebound needs to be tight to slow it down. Both leave quick enough to go red on a .500 Pro-tree. I foot brake mine. This year 13 outings. 1 5 rd, 2 semi, 4 win. R/T ave for the year .029, 4 R/T above .050 all year. I'd say the stock stuff works pretty decent.
Doug

change your rebound with adjustable shocks.gives you a little tuneability on a marginal track,you are talking reaction times not 60 ft,you get on a crappy track the middle of july when the air temps and sun are baking the oils out of the track you need all the adjustability you can gain for consistency.we had a buddy with a smallblock street dart .car ran a best of 10.50s street trim.he changed cams and gained 60 hp on the dyno.went bacvk out 10.50s.but short times skyrocketed from 1.50 to 1.80.this was with a caltracsetup.all we did was put on magnumforce uppers and rms strut rods and qa 1 stocker star front shocks.didnt touch his tune .car jumped into the lower 1.30s and went a best of a 9.98.stock stuff may work but I wont use it .anyone can do what they want just our experiences

I normally run 1.29-1.30 in the heat. Been 1.240/9.04 in cool temp. Sons car is cal track and deadly, 1.41-1.42 with a 3.55 gear on 275's@3750lbs. Greasy track I'd look to add more front travel.
Doug

No doubt the shocks were the best money spent out of that set. Put the old shocks on and I bet it goes back to 1.80's.

Strut rods and upper control arms arent picking anything up 3 tenths.

I'm slower in the low 11's and have run a best of 1.54 60 ft.

The car had /6 torsion bars already, a fresh rebuild of all the components and rubber bushings.

60 ft.'s were horrible when I started but dropped considerably after simply installing 90/10 adjustable front shocks and eliminating the upper control arm bumper.

I just added adjustable rear shocks, Cal-Tracs and split mono's so we will see.

I also have a stock front end with the engine moved back a little over 2 inches. I obtained a pair of black powder coated aluminum strut bars.They are part of the winter diet

Thanks for all the good info. I think I have a path forward. Seems to me the biggest factor are quality adjustable shocks. I look forward to getting this project completed and making some passes next year. Should be a blast to shake out...I know my daughter is looking forward to it, she asks about it every day. She's a hell of a driver and she should do very well if I can get this thing sorted out and consistent.

Enjoy it. Making memories is awesome!

Yes,I also have Vikings on all 4 now tipping the scales @ 3700 with me in.
Will be cracking the 8's & 150 MPH in the spring.

That's great to hear hemi-itis. good luck and keep me posted. Where will you be making passes, E-Town? Make sure you stop by the 1/8 mile track and look me up...I'll be there from time to time Jr. Racing. The points guys hate it when we pull in... She won everytime we raced there this year...

The only thing I done to mine was the RMS strut rods and a basic rebuild with new upper arms. E-body arms bolt right on and I replaced the bushings with the MOOG offset units like Doug mentioned. The RMS strut rods really improved the braking stability at high speeds. I still have the 6 cylinder bars and my car is more street than strip so I just went with KYB gas shocks. My car 60's 1.51 with just a basic 454-455 springs and Rancho's.
Just a basic set-up seems to work good with these cars

Gus

Why did you switch to E body uppers? Nice ride!

When I checked part numbers they were the same as E-body and everybody knows what a Cuda is.

Thanks I love my Savoy

Gus

LOL..I was going to say I thought E and B body were the same...I know the later B Bodys for sure but you never know for the pre 66 stuff...I am having to re-learn some of the parts interchangeability with the early cars...