Wire/Groove Around Combustions Chamber on Heads - Why?

Other than a ton of boost is there any reason why one would run a groove/wire around the combustion chambers? I am looking at a set of -1's and typically use MLS gaskets on stuff like this.

I'd appreciate any insight. Also, are there any revisions of the -1's to watch out for? These particular heads are ported with no flow number or other data which is also making me nervous. Either way I think I'm going to do our other 511 for the black '66 Charger with -1's and a paired rocker setup instead of another shaft setup. We had considered doing up another set of Victors but the price of used -1's with good rockers makes them very attractive even with the associated risk.

No input on grooves but if you could have them pull an intake and exhaust valve and send some decent pics thru the ports & seats, I'm sure you'd get some feedback here from guys that have ported these heads.

Just a thought.

Before the MLS gaskets came about, everyone used copper head gaskets and O-rings in either the block or head deck surface. That was the only way to seal them up when the composite type gaskets would blow out from too much cylinder pressure...whether it be from boost, nitrous, or just high compression.
If at all possible, I'd run an MLS gasket. Remove the wire from the grooves and either mill the heads flat again, fill the grooves w/ some epoxy, or possibly just leave the grooves in place if they don't interfere w/ anything.
Copper gaskets are a PITA.

I built my engine just as the MLS was coming out and wish I could use them some times.

I have a set of solid copper gaskets ($$$) potentially going on a 9-1 race engine. Do I need to O ring the deck? the SCE rep said to use indian head brown sealer cement & that would suffice & you'd think he would know but I'm concerned, what do YOU think? Thank you.

My 383 SBM has o-ringed heads and block. It's a 13 1/2 to 1 alky dirt track engine.

I don't know what kind of gaskets it had when it was fresh in '93 but it has Fel-Pro's installed during the last time it was opened up in 2007... still used the o-rings and the original builder did the refresh.

Now it's getting redone again and I would imagine I'll use the newer MLS gaskets... Fel-Pro or maybe a Cometic brand. Hell I might go back to a steel shim gasket... who knows. I'll be talking to the engine shop this week.

RR... with a 9-1 I would thing the coppers would do just fine.

^^^ thank you (& I feel lucky!).

Thanks guys that makes sense. I'd like to see under the valves myself! Time will tell. I figured a fully ported -1 with an .800ish lift roller cam with the t-ram would be around (okay beyond) the limit of my 400 block.

My plan is to run spray bars and pushrod oil this round.

I'll post some pics of the heads in a sec.

Depending on the diameter of the wire used you may need a receiver groove in the block to make the O rings work correctly
Most of the new Fel Pro race head gaskets come with a built in stainless steel fire ring enclosed in the gaskets, your suppose to use a receiver groove on them also, most racers don't

The new Fel-Pro gaskets that are absolute garbage? Those Fel-Pro gaskets?

What part # (of the felpros')?

I recently put a set of aluminum heads on that had the groove installed.Removed the rings,tigged the grooves and milled the head back to it was and a tad to clean it up.

I have the exact same setup. ported 345cc -1's with O-rings. I'm using Flatout Gasket rubberized copper gaskets. The object of the rubberized coating was for coolant leaks, but it still trickled a little. I pulled the heads off, added a smear of silicone RTV around the water ports and slapped them back together. Used the same head gaskets. Works fine. No receiver groove in the block deck. Just bolt them on and go. I believe the SCE Titan series gaskets have silicone O-rings around the ports already, but also have an extra wire in the gasket for the combustion seal. I don't know how that will work out with the head O-rings. I would use plain copper or rubberizes and be done with it.

I don't know...never seen a motor run copper gaskets without O-rings. I sure wouldn't run copper gaskets if I didn't absolutely have to. They can be a PITA to seal up (water and oil). I'm not a fan of having to slather silicone all over a head gasket to make it seal up.
The newer style copper gaskets w/ the embedded silicone rings around the holes may be better.
The last copper gaskets I used were just pure copper.

I've had success running the SCE brand plain original copper head gaskets on several street motors back when that was all they offered and I have used successfully the new Titan ICS copper head gaskets also without O rings or receiver grooves

I've run O-ringed heads with JB in the grooves. Also run heads with no grooves but with receiver grooves still in the block (unfilled). This a 340 w/13lbs boost using factory iron heads. Ran Felpro gaskets even when it ran the wire. Once it was tuned and didn't detonate the copper wire was no longer needed to keep it sealed.
Doug

I've pulled wire from heads, and blocks, both cases with receiver grooves, and just slapped cometics on with no other corrections. Never had any trouble doing it. Love the cometics.

If you're getting after it with spray or boost they'll still work but tend to do more damage if they burn. Like the copper will melt out more, and save more head and block.

Cab did you run em plain or with sealer?

The titan sce copper cab is talking about is a good gasket too. I have a set on a blower motor with no wire or grooves. They're a good middle ground, and nicely made.

I did coat them with three light coats of Copper Coat
I forgot about that

(1) Thanks Cab, when the time comes I will do exactly that (2) early onset Alzheimers (We'll take care of ya).

I normally cut the grove for the ring in the block, and only cut a receiver groove in the head for lots of nitrous or boost. Its a lot harder to cut grooves and o-ring the head, but the purpose is the same. I have the old Isky tool to cut the blocks. Got to have an end mill to do the heads. Biggest mistake I see is not getting the o-ring the proper depth. Most that have water leaks have the o-ring to tall out of the block, holding the gasket off the water passages. http://scegaskets.com/wp_super_faq/titan-pro-gasket-installation/
SCE website give proper procedure. And use motoseal type silicone sealer around the water ports. Its designed for motorcycle cases met to metal sealing, its a thin silicone, you put it on with a brush. And a coat of copper coat on the gasket.

540, 13.5 compression, O-Ringed block, no grooves in 440-1s, SCE copper gaskets, Hylomar sealer around the water ports. Never have had any leakage problems