school me on air bleeds

I don't post much on here any more but I could use some advise. I am running e-85 with a 1050 dominator after up grading my ignition system (went from a 6al and a blaster coil to a digital 7 and a HVC2 coil)I developed a high speed lean out pop I have jetted up to 106 jets with some help and have started looking at the air bleeds it has 28 square now was thinking I would go to 25s how much will this fatten up on the high side any help will be appreciated

Is the carb designed to use E85? If not then you might not be able to get any more fuel thru the metering blocks. There are passages behind the jets that flow fuel and if those aren't large enough then it doesn't matter how big of a jet you put in it.

If the carb is designed for E85 but it has a fuel curve issue then going smaller on the main air bleed will add fuel at WOT. Fuel curve engineering is best done on a dyno with wide bands hooked up.......

If the carb is designed for E85 but it has a fuel curve issue then going smaller on the main air bleed will add fuel at WOT. Fuel curve engineering is best done on a dyno with wide bands hooked up....... [/quote]

the carb has a quick fuel conversion with the green metering blocks I realize the best way is to use a dyno but that isn't in my future I'm just trying to get a feel for how much air bleeds will change the fuel curve

Try it and see
Let us, me, know your results please
I have a Holley 1150 converted to E85 by A.J. at Bob George racing that I'm racing with, I haven't tried changing any of the bleeds yet
Mine has never miss do to fuel issues, yet
I did find out it, E85 fuel, doesn't like colder spark plugs

the carb has a quick fuel conversion with the green metering blocks I realize the best way is to use a dyno but that isn't in my future I'm just trying to get a feel for how much air bleeds will change the fuel curve
[/quote]are those metering block's for the dominator or are they for the 4150 series, they look pretty much the same (green)and will interchange, but are not calibrated the same.

Check the plug gap! I went to that coil and gapped my plugs to the usual MSD .040 and that coil knocked that crap to well over .060. MSD recommends .020 with that coil, I wouldn't go over .025.

the plugs were gaped at .040 but why would you close the gap when old coil fires at 140ma and the new one fires at 2a almost 2000 times stronger

I was only able to change the a/f by 2pts going from a 60 to a 25 just to see what it would do.I needed to change the feeds to get real change but this was a 3 circuit.There are other things to test like putting a tube on the bowl vents,check fuel flow at top rpm...

Friend of mine had the same problem, didnt chnage much but went too a digital 7 and the HVC 2 coil, he gapped his plugs too .040 and it starting breaking up at high RPM, we checked alot of little stuff... The Ign box, timing, pickup in the dizzy, turned out, when we gapped the plugs to .030 the issue went away. Only thing we could comeup with is that the larger bore size, 4.505, it was alot of windage in the combustion chamber blowing out the spark at 6500RPM plus. Hope this helps!

The smaller hi speed will delay the initial fuel down low and through the top end(richer) and a bigger hi speed will activate sooner (richer) and taper off up top (leaner). I had a scenario on my carb where it was stupid lean down low like 16-17 afr's and rich up top like in the 11's w/ .028's so I put .030's in and the curve teeter tottered rich down low and leaner up top just like that w/no other changes......EVERYTHING goes through the hi speed bleeds and they are active early in the run not just up top.............

"school me on air bleeds"

From what I can figure out, the class lecture is only about 15 minutes long to cover the theory, but the lab work to test the theory vs reality can take years.

No chit.............

from what I am reading I think I'll close the gap on the plugs and try that first the car was almost identical to the 330 ft. once it got into high gear and a load was on the motor did it pop