Base plate for Holley

Is this base plate OK for use with 4-corner idle carb.
I need to have port to attach a vacuum gauge and a PCV valve and my current Quick Fuel base doesn't have any ports on it.
I was going to get this Quick Fuel replacement and I was just wondering if it would work. I really don't know how to identify a 4-corner idle base plate.


Gus

Why not drill the intake for vacuum?

Or a 1 inch spacer if you have room

Looks like 4 corner idle hard to know for sure with a low res picture. Best to call the tech line and tell them what you are doing. BLP has a baseplate that will work if QF doesn't. I've done this trick before using a BLP baseplate.

Well the nice thing about living 20 minutes from Summit is that I can look at it before I buy it.
I may still just go with a spacer an re-engineer my air cleaner with a 1" shorter element because there's not much room with the Performer RPM and a stock hood.
I would drill the intake but it's a dual plane and I would have to go into the side of the plenum and I would really like to get a better signal to this new PCV.

Thanks guys

Gus

I just bought this air cleaner base from summit because I wanted to put an air pan on my Duster and needed it dropped down because of my high intake and 1 inch spacer. It dropped me down 2 inches.

Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr

That looks like one of those circle track deals,I might have to look at one of those. I'd like to keep my 4" element.
Gus

Looks like it's 4 corner.

Does not have the transfer channel from primary to secondary feed port.

Well I think I'm going with a spacer and a shorter air filter. My engine might actually benefit with an open spacer I have always wanted to try it so here is my opportunity.
I really didn't want to disturb a good running carb anyway and the spacer is pretty inexpensive compared to new carb base.

Thanks guys

Gus

Hope it helps you. Do yourself a favor and either install the fitting before installation or at least check out the threads. Most of these spacers are mass produced and the taps are way past being worn out. Easier to check on the workbench than while bending over a fender.

I believe that is a four corner idle base plate. The holes on the outside of the transfer slots are the idle ports. There are four. Sine most cars benefit from a spacer, I would rather go that approach, myself. I would make sure there are 2 holes. 1 for the PCV, 1 for your vacuum gauge. You won't get an accurate vacuum reading if you use the same port where you already have a vacuum leak coming in (PCV is only a regulated vacuum leak).

Yep, and if you run the WIX racing a 3" flows more than your present carb iirc and I run one w/a 1050 or 1150 dommy w/out issues. Plus the added plenum volume usually helps accordingly..........

Gus I'm running an Allstar drop base air cleaner (4150) on my Dart. The guys that dynoed my engine do a lot of dirt track stuff and said that the Allstar base and lid along with the Wix racing filter Dom mentioned made more power on the dyno than anything they had tested.

Before anyone says anything, yes I know and so do they that dyno's aren't in an actual operating environment so take for what it's worth.

Here's another thought....K&N SUCKS the power outta your motor NOT adds it..........fact.........

Can you post a link to that base PBR? I just looked on summit and I don't see it.

Thanks

https://proshop.summitracing.com///parts/AFC-80550


Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Then I cut this out by hand.

Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr


Then I cut out the hole.


Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr


Then I drilled and bolted them together.


Untitled by John Cadamore, on Flickr

Thank you.

Well I put the spacer under the carb and installed my new Wenger PCV valve and the engine seems to idle smoother. I haven't driven it yet to get some butt dyno figures but the air is really cool around here now so it's hard to tell.
I'm thinking of hitting the Halloween thing at D42 this weekend so we'll see how the spacer works on the track.

Gus

Yeah Dom I gotta laugh when a car rolls into the shop with a "cold air kit" It's next to impossible to beat the factory set-up on any car. Many times I try to get customers to go back to a factory filter and they won't because they believe the hype

Gus

The Engine Masters show did a test with like 40 different air filters recently, pretty interesting results!

What were they...........

Keep an eye on youtube they will probably release it soon, they checked everything from a stock single snorkle(lost 150HP) to a stainless steel salad bowl cut to fit the carb and sealed with a K&N filter top. It was a really cool episode, they relase it on Motor Trend on demand first for members but it should eventually hit youtube.

They found that as the base drop increases, so does restriction. They literally took a large metal salad bowl, with a K&N filter lid, and ADDED hp to the BBC 750 hp mule. Velocity stacks still work.

Well my engine doesn't like the spacer as jetted. It has a lean stumble at tip in that it didn't have before the spacer so either I try and jet up and tune my pump shot or just change the base plate
I was whipped by a ZO6 Vette last weekend at the track He got hook on street rubber and I blew the tires off at the hit but I had his bumper at the stripe.
Talked to him after the race and he said he heard my coming about half track
Gus

What spacer..........
.

Just a basic 1" spacer with a port on it for a PCV hose. It's definitely running lean because it was never "cold blooded" before. I'm just gonna get a baseplate for it and get rid of the spacer and go back to way my engine used to run.
Gus

Rich-en it up w/the mixture screws first or idle bleeds since those are easy enuff to do and if it's in the cruise zone that will help. Worse case, jet up a bit IF you are on the boosters.........

Thanks Dom.
I turned the mixture screws out and it brought the idle up and a little more smooth and easy. I have never changed the air bleeds so I'm gonna have to get some do a little research on which ones are the idle bleeds. I still have a power valve on the primaries and I'm thinking of changing it to a higher number and see if it helps with my tip in stumble.

Gus

Outer's idle, inner's next to bowl vents hi speed bleeds..........If the idle came up, it's talkin to ya......... Are they adjustable or fixed.........

Yeah they're screw in bleeds on a Proform 1050 body with Quickfuel blocks and bowls. It's got a Quick fuel cast baseplate too. I should probably get an AFR gauge kit and really get it dialed in because I know how to read my plugs but on a street/strip car it's hard to get a good clean read on them.
I'm going to pull the bleeds that are in there now so I know where to go with them.
Gus

With all of the EFI talk and this and that stuff, we as carb guys need data as well and a WB is our friend as a "directional" tool to help get us dialed in just the same..........