Wilwood pads and rotors

I'm going to buy a lottery ticket. On my last pass this past weekend something did not feel right in the front. Wasn't sure if a wheel bearing was starting to go or what?
I was able to check it out last night and low and behold real bad spider cracks in each rotor and one of the pads, the material came off. That was the noise I was hearing/feeeling.
They are 11" rotors with 4 piston calipers. They are the drilled and slotted ones. I believe the P/N#'S are 160-7099/160-7100 rotor & 150-8850 BP-10 pads.
Anyone experience this? Should I be using a different material pad? Should I use a non drilled rotor?
Thanks.

Yikes! Following. Glad you are safe! Mine are not drilled and it's probably about time I changed the pads.

If that 4100 in your sig is the car weight then there is your answer.

I also learned the hard way that you don't let the pads wear very far. Leads to pistons sticking out too far. I've talked to a few that said 1/2 and chuck em.

Ok. So I'm fine to replace with what I had then just put pads in sooner?
Need to order today so I have in time for next race. Thanks.

Put me on that list Jay

Wookie you might talk to Wilwood and see if another pad type would be better for you

That is a lot of heat so maybe you are on them too long and a hotter pad would slow you faster.

Where is best to set an adjustable proportion valve? Maybe I have too much front and not enough rear? I have disk on the back and hydroboost as well.
I will see what Wilwood recommends for pad material.

You can get pads and rotors from Speedway. It's your weight thats getting to them. Spider cracks are not uncommon from heat. Mine have done it. Read about the different pad materials. They make many.
Doug

Pad material is critical. And I would probably check your brake balance. Look at your rear brakes. If there is minimal wear on pads and rotors, then yes, you might need more pressure towards the rear.

Wookie316...we are in the same boat. My car is about 3900 lbs and hard on brakes. Right now I have the same issue w/ my Aerospace front discs and stock 11" rear drums.
I thought I had my car ready to race a few weeks ago until I happened to look at the front rotors. I noticed they were discolored and had a LOT of cracks in them.

BTW...the guy at Aerospace told me that vented and/or crossdilled rotors are not a benefit on a drag or street/strip car. Told me to get the solid rotors. The more surface area you have for the pad to contact, the better. The new pad technology doesn't need to vent gases away from the contact area like the old days. He said they might not look as cool, but will work better.

I really need to upgrade to rear discs.

I have frt,rear pro street disc with undrilled vented rotors and they have held up well

I made brackets for dual calipers for a hydraulic hand brake as an e-brake

One thing I can do is use the 2nd return road instead of the first at the one track I run at. Have to stand on the brakes pretty hard to make first one. May as well save the equipment and use the 2nd one.

LOL, I don't have a prayer of taking the first one at Darlington unless I click it off at the 1/8.

I was talking to Jim bongard, who is the NHRA inspector for our area. He said that the drilled Wilwood vented rotors have had problems breaking up. One of the victims called Wilwood and they said that anything over 140 miles an hour should use a solid rotor not vented.

That's what I suspected. That drilled rotors are propably inferior for my application.

I hope you can change rotors without changing the hub.

Yes. Already apart and waiting for replacements. All good.

I will remember that if I ever switch,Thanks.