Carb recommendation

1969 Road Runner 4 speed 3.91 gears, 440, 10.5:1 CR, Stealth aluminum heads, Comp cams XE284 cam, Edelbrock RPM intake, TTi 1 7/8" headers/ 3" exhaust. Mostly street driven and the occasional trip down the 1/4. The engine made 501HP/514TQ on the dyno with the engine shops dyno carb (not sure what it was).
I currently have FAST EZ EFI 1.0 on the car, but the fuel pump died on the way home from a car show yesterday. The EZ doesn't work great with the cam in the engine, and I'm not sure I want to upgrade to a multipoint EFI system.

So... what carb do you recommend? I was thinking around a 750-850CFM double pumper with annular boosters, but not sure who makes the best carb.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

For a street car I'd use an Edelbrock 800 AVS. They don't make as much power at WOT as a Holley but the Edelbrock will have better idle.

The double pumpers are good carbs and would be a good choice for a 4 speed big block car. The only draw back is that most (maybe all) of them are calibrated for the track and therefore are quite a bit rich for street driving.

After getting the suggestions here, call a few of the better carb builders and get their recommendations.

I have an 800 Edelbrock, which was on the original 383 when I got the car. I could not get rid of the off idle stumble. I'm not a great engine tuner, but I tried everything with that carb. It made it very hard to drive with a 4 speed!

DaveRS23
Who are the carb builders you would recommend?

850 DP Minimum............

While it won't necessarily make the most peak power, a 1.4"-ish venturi x 1.75" throttle bore with stepped downleg boosters will be more responsive on the street and fun to drive.

Thumperdart
What brand of carb would you recommend?

Put a six pack on it and never look back. For street/strip, they drive great, and get much better mileage than any double pumper. Good luck. Sounds fun.

So it runs like crap right....plugs look all un-even and its blubbery on take off.

First, I have to look everything up you posted to know what I need to know.

Cam has only 240 duration at .050" lift correct?

Next, your intake is a dual plane intake correct?

Cam recommends 750 double pumper right on their page!


Next, your problem is not the efi, its your timing curve. Since your running G1, it does not change or map the timing for you. I used that same system with almost the same cam with 80 less cubes with no issues. But I went and had my distributor recurved so I had 22* at idle....The standard Mopar distributors have way too much swing in them. It needs to be shortened. You need more timing and sooner with no extra total advance.

Next, your running a damn dual plan intake....Save yourself some money, pull it off, grind the center divider down and radius everything. Then add a 1" open spacer...port match the spacer to your intake exactly. change plugs, re-install intake and efi, and drive it and let it re-learn the fuel curve....

You will never beat the fuel map that system will give you with a carb, period. EFI does not fix other short comings in the combination. Motor wants fuel AND timing! Restrict either, and it runs like ........&$&$&*^98

If you want to get rid of the system, let me know...I have the perfect use for it right now.

Dragular grind divider thin, not downwards? As pictured?
Have you tried grinding the divider down? Like the MP engine books says to do on the LD-340?
Just wondering.

Quick fuel 850 s/s carb. Street strip carb, happy in both places

I had back to back timing slips, and when properly tuned, both were within .03 sec in the 1/8th mile. But the efi was cleaner, ran better, and didn't have to jet it for current conditions....

Take a guess how I know.....And personally, if I was to put a carb on his 440, it would be a Proform 750....They have had the best out of the box calibrations we have used to date.

A Thumper Carb

This is a very interesting article that applies here.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-pick-the-best-carburetor-for-a-street-strip-car/

There are a lot of carb builders around and everyone will have a different opinion on who to use (and not use). But it is interesting to note that they all use the Holley 4150 platform to build from. Is there anyone building custom carbs off the Carter AFB or AVS base?

A google search will bring in a lot of info on carb builders. But, the opinions/experiences on them are all over the place and really do not help narrow down which one to go with. And a lot depends on how good a tuner you are. The better the tuner, the less he has to be concerned with what calibration he starts with. But a less experienced tuner needs to get a carb as close as possible.

Thumperdart, Holley, ProForm, Willy's, AED to name just a few.

I thought the Dominators I did for you out shined the EFI on the Hemi, and the 1050 Dommy out performed the "tried and true better than any" 4150" on the wedge............

I could get behind that.
Or an old school Holley 4781, or an AED HO-850.

I stay away from "race" carbs in that type of application....... The low speed calibration is usually too rich for me.

I would listen to the above.. you only had a
pump die on you but you arent happy with the
injection.. a pump is way cheaper and if you
listen to him you could get a better running
ride and a whole lot cheaper.. I went with the
multi point on my street rod..

I don't see em as a "race" or "street" carb but is it tune-able in all circuits and if so, easy enuff to do w/set screws, t-slot jets, emulsion and bleeds. A wide band makes the job easier for sure............

750 or 650 double pumper Holley parts are easy to get and car will haul tail. I still use TQs and AVS old style. A modified Q jet is nice for a street car with chrysler linkage MId 80s Dodge truck But Holley for overall performance period

Thanks for all the recommendations guys! I am going to think it over for a bit, then decide.

As for the fuel injection talk. I like the system overall, but I could never get the car to start and idle when cold. I talked to the guys at FAST and they said the cam in the engine is borderline too big for the EZ 1.0. I tried the adjustment and software upgrades they recommended, but the car still dies when started. Once it is running and warmed up the car runs great. Throttle response is incredible.

The pump that died was included in the kit from FAST and is mounted on the frame rail. That is what killed the pump. There was no "easy" in tank setups at the time I bought the system. There are lots now.

I'm not getting rid of the EZ EFI. It will be installed on another vehicle with a milder cam.

Thanks again.

I like the Holley 950

The Holley Ultra Street Avenger is a decent carb.
I had one on the 505" stroker before going to port EFI.
I wanted a street carb with electric choke and vacuum secondary.
As I recall, it had billet metering blocks, but pressed in restrictions, not screw in restrictions like most billet metering blocks.
The idle restrictors were a bit small for my application, but other than that, it was a good carb.

If you don't need a choke and looking for more of a race carb, the HP carbs are nice. I have an old 1,000 cfm vacuum secondary HP carb (no longer listed by Holley) that was really close out of the box for the old 451 stroker combination, and worked good on the 500" stroker too.

I have run a few different carbs over the years but I gotta say I do like how nice the Holley 750 to 850 Double pumper works. I run the Holley 850 DP street version that had a choke which I removed but of all the carbs I have used I really like it. I only did a few minor mods to it because it just works so nice. Works fine at the track and has great driveability on the street. We run a Holley 750 DP on my sons 400 Dart and he loves it. We have had 3 different carbs on it and he always goes back to the 750 DP because it just works so good on his combo. I am sure I can go faster with a Dominator or one of the race carbs but for all around performance and driveability I love the 850 DP on my 63. Ron

I know that with a "Properly" tuned 1050 Dommy, you'd be amazed how street-able(Dragweek)they can be and throttle response and mid/upper power is eye opening...........

If you're not going to use a Thumper carb, call BLP and just buy a carb.

Have messed with injection for years, I'd rather have a carb or carbs.

BLP has a few different lines like any other and great customer service to boot...........Ask for Mark or Andrew if you buy direct..............

Wow...Just ignored my post about timing curve completely...Didn't hear a word I said....Ok...

Sometimes I've posted really solid advice & guidance to people that addresses their questions, only to have them keep looking for another answer that matches what they want to hear. It's part of why I don't bother posting nearly as much on here as I used to...

I would have thought you guys had been on the old interwebz long enough by now that you'd gotten thicker skins.

You offer some advice or guidance, or an opinion..... No one says the ones doing the asking are going to use your suggestion.

Once in a while I might feel strongly enough about something I posted to argue the point, but for the most part...... You asked....... I answered.... That's it.
The advice or recommendations I give are "what I would do", and I'm usually pretty confident I could get good results from it.
As with most things...... YMMV.

Please continue on with your regularly scheduled thread......

69' RR, 4 spd, 431ci, 242@.050", 10.5:1, 4.88:1 rear. 3" pipes.

Best thing I've done for cold start and driveability is lock-out the dizzy at 36 BTDC with a start retard.

Additional timing at idle effects manifold vacuum and will be beneficial to the MAP signal and the F.I. module's ability to compensate upon start-up.

Follow the solid advice you received concerning the timing curve.

Oh, I have. In fact, my doctor told me I should lose another 40#s of it during my last physical.

"Please continue on with your regularly scheduled thread..." x2

750 more than enough

Sometimes I'm truly amazed by some of the replys I see on Moparts. I was once told "good luck with your build, your gonna need it". This was because I brushed moly on aluminum caps before installing them into the blocks cap registers!!!!

I must admit however, I find it highly entertaining

Myself I only try to offer some help when I feel I know enough about the subject to even say anything that may help the poster but I see in many post where the poster gets alot of good info that goes ignored. And it seems many times they keep asking until they get the answer they were looking for in the first place and just wanted to here someone else say the same even if its wrong to make them feel better but ignore the right info that may really help them.

And I am not referring to this post so please do not get upset with me as I just mean I see that sometimes on some post but I am not talking about this one. Ron

I wont disagree with you as you have run and worked with alot of Dominators. Myself I have never run one on my street cars and have only driven a few race cars with them. Actually I have never had a Dominator on any of my cars including race cars. But thats because most all my cars have been mild builds as it seems most of my life I was married with kids and just never had the money to build anything nasty. To be honest my 63 is the most modified eng I have ever run and is the first build of mine that I have ever used aftermarket aluminum heads on. I worked on some for others but all my other builds have been factory cast iron heads that I did my own head work on. I had to stay within my budget. Course thats why I dont have a Dominator on my car and have not tried one yet. But I do love how good the 850 drives and works on my car. I really hope to try a Dominator one day and I hope it dont eat to much more gas but I am sure it will. But like I say if I am worried about gas milage then I am in the wrong hobby. Ron

I understand and you cars runs great so why mess w/success but if you have the clearance it would be a good test BUT, not just any Dommy or even a 3-circuit will do..........