Suspension gurus step inside.

Looking to drop my 60' down. The power is there, I feel there is a lot of wasted motion, particularly in the front suspension. It almost seems as if the front end comes up too fast still, tops out the front shocks, and then goes back down. It's dead hooking and not even trying to spin the tires. The front shocks are Viking DA as are the rear. The fronts are full tight on extension. The rears are 10 from full tight on extension, and 8 from tight on compression.



Let's see what everyone thinks. Maybe time for limiters, or revalved front shocks.
https://youtu.be/xM_HLx1V56w

The front seems to move pretty fast to have the shock set on full extension.

Send the front shocks back and have them build
them for a tighter front

Exactly my thought. I've already contacted them and they can't revalve them, but they said they'd treat me right on a set that is valved tighter.

Right for who?

You need stiffer valving, if in that video that if full tight on front extension you need more.. This is exactly why I suggested Afco in the other shock thread. At least if need be they can be re valved..

How fast is this car? Looks like a caltrac deal?!?

Can't revalve them? Can they rebuild them? That's silly. Afco Big Gun and don't look back.

You can re-valve Viking Crusaders, not the Warriors which is what he must have

They don't offer the "Crusader" option for front shocks. At least they didn't when I bought mine b/c I asked if they had any special valving for front shocks like they do rears for high HP cars...they said no.

Something is wrong. I don't think we're talking about an 8 second car. I have vVikings and on full extension I can't pull them apart.

On the car the front has zero movement. It's like it's locked down.

All I have is a high 11 second stick car. Even with the clutch I can't use full rebound dampening.

Something else is happening. Either that valuing was incorrect when they left Viking, something broke internally, or, not to be a smart ass...maybe the OP is turning the knob the wrong way.

I've seen that happen with dirt bike and sport bike suspension. Guys grab the knob and turn it the wrong direction and wonder why they blew through the corner of ended up on their lid.

I have to think something is out of whack. I personally know of 8 second cars using that Viking shock and they aren't out of dampening.

Weird.

Yes, these are the warrior series. They are definitely set on full tight. It's tough to pick up the front end when lifting up on it.



Unfortunately afco doesn't have anything that's a bolt on deal for this car. I am ordering custom valved crusaders for the front.


It's a caltrac car, with stockish multileaf setup (I know multi leafs and caltracs won't work)


It's been 9.4 @ 144 with a 1.4 60'

In the video it looks like the rear tire is not getting hit hard enough as the tire spins briefly, hooks, then offloads. Try loosening the rear shock extension to hit the tire harder and see if you can get some separation to stay on the tire longer. If the bar isn't in the top hole I'd move it there to get more leverage. Also make sure there isn't any binding in the rear suspension.

There's a great thread on yellowbullet on this subject too - http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288916

It's old but still relevant. Kind of like Thumpers' weight loss thread :}

On spray...........

On boost...FTW!

Couple things I see.

1) The rear doesn't look like it hits the tire hardly at all. But it's not spinning, so loosening the shock to hit the tire will just make the 60ft worse.

2) Does the car sit up really high in the back, or are you foot braking it hard before you grab the brake? Before you mess a whole lot with the bump box, you might just want to pull it into the stage beam, hit the brake with the suspension settled, and then spool it.

3) Front shocks are WAAAAAAY too loose. I target around 1.5-2 rear tire turns before the front suspension is out of travel. Looks like you have the fronts off the ground in around 1/2 of a rear tire rotation.

How much power and RPM are you trying to leave on? I'm non intercooler so it's not apples to apples, but mine will leave on around 4400rpm @14-15psi on a decent track. That was on the non-pro tire with more weight then you. You might just need to up the power.

Glad you chimed in, I was actually about to pm you about this.


The car does sit up higher in the rear, and im not foot braking it in. I roll into the first beam, then grab the brake and bump in. The class I run is .400 pro tree.


When I get the front shocks on I'm assuming I'm going to have to loosen the rear extension some maybe? But I 100% agree the front is way loose.


I'm leaving at 4000rpm currently and it will build about 12lb on the brake. I've also got a 1.80/3.55 so I'm betting it will take more rpm, but didn't bother to try with the front acting like it did. I use the 6530 box and pull .7 per psi. A buddy of mine mentioned leave it at full timing in low gear and just pull timing in the end of low gear, and high gear. I don't like over complicating things, and I feel that will. I'm thinking there is a lot left in the 60' with just shock adjustments.

ALL MOTOR..........FTW.............Knew it had a power adder just wasn't sure which one.........

Oh it'll take a TON more then what you're throwing at it now.

I wouldn't dare run full timing in 1st gear, that's a good way to destroy a piston for sure! It might take a little more timing in 1st, but were talking a degree or two.

The more power you leave on, the harder it will hit the tire. Start throwing power at it, and you'll start to work that tight rear shock.

How loose is the converter on full boost? I've found leaving on the more boost at lower RPM, is much better then less boost at more RPM.

Cant believe Afco don't make a front shock for it, while not the most popular car out there a TON of them run in Stock and SS classes..


Anyway given what you have said the front is WAY to loose. I dont see the rear end moving at all really. SO I would say its plenty tight back there but don't see it spinning so that's fine. My guess is as the power goes up you may need to address the rear valving eventually as well. Would like to see some better video of the entire side of the car too.

Have you called to confirm that Viking now offers custom "crusader" valving for the front shocks?

Yes I ordered them yesterday, 1-2 day build time. So I should have them the first of next week.

Actually just got the shipping notification. Their customer service is top notch, they don't play around.

Well that pisses me off. Unless that's something they've changed since I bought mine, b/c I specifically asked about that when I ordered mine and they told me they didn't offer anything other than their "shelf shock" for the front.

Call and talk to Jake, that's who I dealt with. He specifically told me they have differed needles to adjust the front shocks for different applications.