Nascar truck engine for street strip A body??

Hello All,
I am looking for advice from the engine heads here!! I picked up a Dodge Nascar truck engine, complete less the carb. It was freshened up after running a race at Daytona years ago and sat in a garage sealed tight. It has a dry sump oil system on it. I know very little about dry sump systems at this point, but from what I am reading, this type of system is not used on street/strip cars very much. I want to install it into an A body strip/mostly street car.
My question is whether I should convert the engine to wet sump(which I assume is possible)or go my original route of a quality crate engine and sell the truck engine. Is it too radical an engine for street use?? It is in the 650 to 700hp range. Will swapping the oil systems be involved and expensive?? Are these engine blocks and heads hard to get mounts and headers for?? The heads are W-9's I think??
I got a very good deal on this engine, so I could spend several thousand dollars on the conversion and still be under the cost of a quality crate engine of equal HP.
I am sure I am missing other issues that might be in play here, so please guide me in the smartest direction.
Thank you everybody!!!!

You will need to post pictures before we can answer your question. If it is a NASCAR block then it is probably dry sump only since the block isn't designed for an internal pump. Dry sump works just fine on the street (new Corvettes are dry sump as are most high end European sports cars) but it does take up room. You will most likely need a custom K frame to deal with the dry sump as well as a motor plate for the engine. I doubt that block has any motor mount ears on it unless it is a really old NASCAR engine that still used an OEM type of block.

If you search around the web a little bit you'll find some very cool Mopar cars that have NASCAR engines in them. Lots of work and money to make it happen but they look cool and sound wicked.

I will say that if you're on the internet asking how to do a project like this then you probably don't have the ability to make it happen so a crate engine might be the wise choice. However, if there is a street rod builder in your local area who takes a liking to you then the project could happen. Street rod dudes have been mating weird engine combos together for 50 years and they know how to do most anything.

Thanks AndyF for the reply!!
I will take and post some pics. I believe there are no mount ears on the block.. I planned on going with a K member change to AlterKation or other replacement.
THX!!!

A board member has one in a Valiant...Maybe he'll see this and chime in...

Depends what "NASCAR" engine it is. Post a pic of the engine if you want real answers, since you are unsure what it is.

I have an ex w8 nascar truck motor, dry sump, I converted the block and the rear main cap to accept a oil pump. All the valley drain backs etc etc. Not for the faint of heart, quite involved to get one going, I'm a machinist so I was able to do it no problem, going to need some skills...... Can be done but you need to want it, if that comes across clearly. I'm days away from running, forcing air in with a f2 on mine. Good luck on your decision.

My first question would be is it a R3/W8 or R5/P7 based engine?

having seen picts of greendarts mill he's definitely talented on the machine work side of things. It's like he's a brain surgeon.... and I'm that kid eating mud trying to pound that square peg in the round hole.

waiting for picts OP!!!!

WOW Should be fun

There is also an R6/P8 engine,it is easy to ID as it has a front mount distributor. Seems to be quite a few for sale lately.
RT

Really? Where are they for sale and how much? I doubt they are affordable.

The whole build looks completely different, not just the distributor. It's a piece of cake to tell the difference between all 3. If the OP would just post pics.....

I'm putting one together right now. If you want to PM me your number and a good time to call I may be able answer any questions you may have. I'm just north of New Port Richey.

Thanks again everybody... I will post pics over the weekend. Doing some shop re-arranging and the motor is currently buried in the corner..

considering there are some street cars out there with A8 builds.... anything is possible.

Another option if you can't get the dry sump to work is a wet sump with a single stage external oil pump. I use a Moroso but there are others.

Pros:
oil pan has better ground clearance or can mount engine lower
pump literally vacuums the oil out of the engine
negative pressure in the crankcase lets the crank spin easier
much more highly developed system with up to date ideas
you are replacing the K-frame so you should be able to get a new suspension that the engine fits into
you can put more weight on passenger side (oil tank)
longer between oil changes

Cons
where to mount the large oil tank
more hoses to get in the way
one more belt to buy
probably weighs more
more expensive oil changes

I think I'd look at those street cars with dry sumps and see what the configuration of their oil tanks looks like. There has to be some residence time in the oil tank for air to come out of suspension

R.

I saw a listing for a block and a bunch of heads,I think a C/L ad.I looked on ebay after I saw it and there were/are a bunch of blocks(around $1500) and heads there,cranks too.I think there are some parts for sale on here to in the race section.I think all the little stuff will add up a bit even with a $1500ish block to start.

It's going to like a buttload of RMP's I hope your drivetrain can handle being dropped at 6500

Hey Guys,
I got pics of the engine.. But I can't figure out how to attach them.. I went to the help section, but it isn't clicking...
I printed the instructions and will have the workplace geek help me out....

Just to keep your mind open.. you could sell
off what you have(if the price was right) and
get a gen 3 to put in.. easier and cheaper

Hey Guys,
Can someone give me the lowdown on attaching pics?? My geek friend isn't to sure what to do either. I am quite the novice with this stuff
THX All....

I send mines to photobuck then use there link to post pictures on here..hopefully this helps

When you reply, below the text box you are typing in is a "switch to full reply screen" box. Click on that.
In the full reply screen, below the text box is "file manager" click on that.
Now hit the "browse" box. It should take you to your pics.
Select the pic, then click "add file"

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1799584

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...t-pictures.html

A couple of "tutorials".

Max image size is 2Mb. Most pics on my computer are bigger than that so I have to open in MS Office Picture Manager and then use Edit to compress and save as before I can upload them.

Kevin

THANKS GUYS!!!
I will check it out tonight at home. Does each pic, or group of pics have to be in a separate "file"?
With Ebay or Craigslist, I can just grab each pic and attach it. What TRENDZ is saying sounds like the Ebay/Craigs set-up??
Thanks again everyone!! I will get it one way or another...

You can add a few pics together(base on size)
you do it like Trendz said but just click the
add button.. then click done

If Tom could turn that File Manager hyperlink into a big ADD PICS button, I think most guys could figure out the rest.

Kevin

OK Guys,
I hope the pics are here!!! I thought I would see them before submitting?? Well here goes...

My guess is that its R-3 9 inch deck block with W-8 heads.

I also probably has the 2.25 inch SBF main bearings. Good chance the rods are 1.88 but definitely smaller than stock. Probably has some really good rods in it.

If you car has a stock steering box the dry sump will probably have to go.

Good chance you will want to change the cam also.

You will have to have the headers made or at least modify production headers.

Good chance it has a Chevy rear flange on the crank. That will be a big issue with an automatic, not so much with a manual.

If it was mine I would sure give it a try.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Bill

That is an exact twin to my motor when I got it. Be interesting to see the number stamped into it, I'm betting its close to mine.
Agree with the above,
Ford main
9" deck
6" rod
1.88 to 2.0 rod journal
Chev rear crank flange
That's just my guess, could be anything.....
Full of good stuff if you are willing to put effort into making it work and fit your application, make headers, I converted the rear flange to mopar specs besides the bolt pattern on mine, just all takes thought and work, etc,etc

If you've got room for the dry sump system, it's not going to be an issue. Going to a traditional wet sump system will require a complete tear down and drilling the block and main cap. Otherwise a new oil pan and single stage external pump will be much easier.

It will have a lot of good parts in it, from memory those engines were 9:1, the camshaft isn't too crazy, but featured a bit of duration @0.050" (typically around 270-280 @0.050" on a 108 lobe centre). Chances are it will have Jesel dogbone or tie bar lifters. If you're running an auto trans, it will want a decent converter (5K plus i'd imagine)

Best of luck with it

Thank you guys for all the info....I think it would be a kick ass set up. But I will continue to research it to make sure I can do it right..

will be an interesting build to see how it goes to grocery getter mode I too have pretty much the same bullet sitting on an engine stand.