Found an old Mopar Performance Crank- Any opinions?

Mopar performance p4529532

Found this crank for sale across the country. 4.15" stroke for a 383-400 block.

Was told the crank is from early 1990's.

I was pretty young then so I have no frame of reference. Were these good stroker cranks?

Thanks for any info!

Not 100% sure but that could be a crank made by Kellog if's forged.

Supposed to be a forged stroker crank. 4.15 stroke for a b engine.

If it is new in the box, not raced, and has the full radius filet instead of the standard Mopar reverse filets I would buy it in a heartbeat(as long as the price is decent) and have it offset ground down to 2.200 BB Chevy rod size and increase the stroke to either 2.250 or 2.300

Should work okay just don't pay too much for it. Those cranks were expensive when Mopar sold them but they are heavy and somewhat out of date now.

Looks like it was offered in the mid 90s I have a gap in my Mopar Performance Catalogs and cannot find the part number. However I did find an reference in a Mopar Engines Manual from the early 90s:

Machined from 4340 steel forgings, widely regarded as the strongest crankshaft material available, for maximum strength in race applications. Eight bolt flange. Full radius design.

P4529532 "B" engine race crankshaft - 4.15 stroke, 2.625 main journal diameter.

If it not a rust log could be very nice crank.

Bill

I've been looking at that crank for about a year now but they want way too much money for it. Mopar Performance stroker cranks were very expensive back in the early 1990's as they were the only game in town. I'm sure that the seller paid close to retail for it ($1800). It certainly is an excellent crank materials wise but it's got B main journals and stock rod journals. Today, you can buy a decent stroker crank with 2.2 rod journals, RB mains and more stroke for less than $800 and that's new. The cheapest way to use that crank is to get the crank and rods together for a good price and stuff it into your B block but since the seller paid top dollar for those parts back in the day, I doubt that they will ever let it go for a reasonable price.

IIRC they were pain to balance I would skip it if it was not dirt cheap

Yeah, kind of like someone who has some stock they paid $100 per share for and they don't want to sell it since it is now only worth $30 a share.

Those MP cranks were expensive and you feel bad for someone who paid $1800 and never used it. Now it is worth about $500 regardless of what they want for it.

Personally I'd just call up Molnar and buy a new crank with 2.200 rod journals and go build an engine. No reason at all to use the old crank with the big heavy rod pins and big heavy connecting rods. The 2.200 stuff works just fine and saves a bunch of weight and room.

Thank you guys, I will be passing on this piece and going with something else.

If you like molnar cranks and rods, who do you guys like for pistons?

Diamonds, Ross and Venolia

I don't think I'd worry about the piston brand, I'd just look for the correct specs. JE, SRP, Diamond, Wiseco, CP, Mahle, etc. all make good stuff.

AndyF - your logic is the same conclusion that I came to. But I just can't pass up on a Craig's List Deal. I thought about low-balling on these parts but the gap between where they are at and what I would consider a reasonable price to pay is so big that I think they would consider it an insult. It was a good combination back in 1990 but the Market has changed quite a bit in the last ~25 years!

Oh and I'm still holding on to some of that stock that I purchased high and am waiting for it to come back above water. I suppose that I'll just take the loss some year if I ever have some gains to wash out!!

Icons are nice and very affordable at 500-600 at set.

Okay, I have decided to go with Molnar Technologies for a crank and rods. This will be a street and strip car and I now have the choice between a 400 block and a 440 block to start with. Any suggestions on which block to build and what cubic inch get?

I like the 470 inch combo in a 400 block if you are going to use standard port heads. Not too hard to get 600 hp if you use the Trick Flow heads and the 400 block takes up a little less room under the hood.

If you decide to go that way I think member Airwoofer has a brand new Molnar 470 crank for sale. If you buy the crank from him then I'd add some 6.700 long rods (Molnar is a good choice) and then some 1.32 CH pistons. I used Diamond shelf pistons in my 470 and they made 10.6 compression with the Trick Flow heads. Super nice combo that basically falls together as long as your block will finish hone at 4.375.

I've used Molnar rods and cranks on several builds o
I'm a big torque seeker, especially on street and strip motors. On your deal I would go with the 400 block and either 4.25 or 4.300 stroke and a 6.700 long rod with a custom piston built to the specs you want for compression ratio, fuel type and valve to piston clearances
The 3.91 stroke is a good choice also, just not as much C.I. and torque compared to the longer strokes

Andy, Thanks for the advice. I am going to have both blocks checked and go with the 400 if applicable. Would a 470 be a good candidate for the holley sniper efi, or something similar?

I'd think any of the aftermarket EFI units could handle a 470 without any trouble. A pump gas 470 with good heads (Trick Flow or example) will make 600 hp with a moderate cam and 700 hp with a serious cam, race headers, etc. Most of the EFI units I've looked at lately are capable of feeding that and more.

That 400 block is supposed to be stronger than the 440. I like the way the shorter strokes rev up.

Sent you a PM.