Should I add a ARB to the mix

The suspension upgrades in my valiant are almost complete and ive been in contact with some leaf spring races that suggested I install A anti roll bar. I understand the theory of how they work and the benefits one may get from installing a ARB. Does a setup like this work for a torsion bar stock style suspension, and whats your guys experience with adding one,pros and cons.
The rearend has to come out one last time after i figure my pinion angle out to weld the spring perches and the brake line fiting brakets. So if i added one now I could save myself some future headaches down the line. So it looks like I need you members on moparts guidance one more time.

BB,TURBO CAR,POWERGLIDE,DANA 60,CALTRAC ON LEAFS,DA VIKING SHOCKS UP FRONT,SA RANCHO SHOCKS OUT BACK for now,SMALL TIRE CAR

Any and all help is always appreciated pics would be a added bonus
Thanks All in advance

They help a lot on leafs... the rear end is trying
to roll(flip over to the drivers side) and this applies
the load equal to each tire... I used a S&W ARB

I am betting much better shocks are way more important. The torque applied to those leaf springs is going to be huge, even with a low ratio gear in a PG trans. An anti roll can,t help if the rear separates violently and runs out of shock travel. Look in the old race car thread. My dart is in there, showing what happens with big torque, poor shocks and SS springs.

Absolutely, a huge difference at the track, and on the street. I mounted mine between the rear down bars of the cage in the trunk, and mounted it on top of the axle tubes. It's a team z motorsports universal kit. Very nice piece.

Thanks Mr.Pbody for the speedy reply your advice and experience is always appreciated I'm going to look into one.





Yah greg I planned on better rear shocks in the near future I've read enuff info on this site to final realize the importance of a good set of shocks.

1980volare thanks for that pic thats what I'm looking for my rear bars are landed in a similar location as yours. Any chance you could take a pic of how you mounted it on the housing.

. Great. Looking forward to your ride hitting the road

Yep. Much needed

Mounted between frame rail on ours. ARB will help to launch square but as everyone says, you need good shocks to help axle rotation / rear separation. My next move is to mount the shocks on the front of the housing.
HTH's

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Don't waste your time on moving shocks to front. Helps or solves nothing.

To OP, YES to anti roll, but not one like in above pic. Any bar that has the ends bolt on will eventually cause a problem when it wallows out the holes........which it WILL. Arms should ALWAYS weld on to tube

Billet arms?

Thanks all who posted pics and those who gave solid advice I spent a couple hours on the net yesterday doing research and yes ill be adding a arb to the mix.
JERICOGTX that billet arm setup looks to be a nice setup i acutally got a ad from leaf spring unlimited on FB and was looking at that setup yesterday...

That is where I saw the ad also. Looks nice. Isn't real cheap, but you get what you pay for... usually.

If those cool billet arms are aluminum and are supposed to bolt on the end of a piece of steel tubing as the anti-roll. It WILL eventually elongate the hole in either the tubing, the arm or both and you have slop. At that point the anti-roll is useless

The S&W ARB kit has splined arms and a bolt...
they offer 2 different widths... so measure what
you need.. I had to go narrow

No they are steel. Need to be welded onto 1.5" tubing. I have a Chassis Engineering Top Gun ARB for my RoadRunner. Arms are fully welded. The billet arms would save a lot of welding time over the TG piece.

http://chassisengineering.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=3_95&product_id=27

I have this one

I assume this car will be street driven. I will give you the advice that I give anyone who asks.
"I" wont put a rear bar on a car with stock(ish) front travel/suspension unless it has a front bar. I've seen WAY to many cars get a little out of shape and have the action exaggerated by the stiff rear and loose front.
If you go with a rear bar, make sure you have one in the front also.
Watch youtube. Any drag car crash video compilation will show this in action. You will see the car sway a little bit, one rear tire will come off of the ground, the car will act like a tricycle and boom. Done.
Don't misunderstand. I don't blame the bar for the initial looseness, but the ability to correct a car that has stock travel in the front, no front bar, and a stiff rear is a handful, even for an expert driver like me

Or you can build your own

Say huh...what? I am definitely not following. The anti-roll prevents body roll. And nothing that has enough power to NEED and anti-roll should never have the front end sloppy loose

The best way I can describe it is this. Most guys that are drag racing assume that the car is only going straight. That's great if that's what happens, but eventually the car will get out of shape.
Anyway, guys take the average street car and turn into a drag car. The first thing they do is take off the front sway bar. Now lets assume the guy follows the same old recipe of 90/10s, lower spring rate, etc... The front is now loose, and the front wheels can move independently from each other. The car will act like an old 3 wheel ATV in a hard turn if it has a stiff rear bar in it... They outlawed 3 wheel ATVs.
I am not suggesting that the above is the proper way to set up a car, but it is way to common. If you have a stock(ish) front suspension (this car) and are considering a rear bar, MY advice is to have a front bar.

Trendz the car will see some street time mostly to and from work which is a 15 min drive down country roads and to the local car show,but Im truely hoping to make 2017 DW, but only time will tell. The front suspension is stock style but ive added the capability of making it fully adjustable with nothing but good parts,I also added shock tower supports,for the added load on the front end and added a tublar core support acouple years ago to help stuffin the front end of the car.
The car always ran true with the turbo slant but honestly I was only making about 400hp and the car was pretty consistent, so im hoping with the suspension upgrades i made it will beable to handle the added power,but as stated many times only time will tell.......

Gregsdart ive been trying to source parts out to make my own but havent had much luck,but ill continue to look. I was looking at this one online and bang for your buck It looks like a nice piece and they'll make custom length bars, https://trickchassis.com/index.php?id_product=43&controller=product the team z one is nice and reasonably priced as well, but I haven't decided just yet what which direction ill go.

Funds have been abit tight the last couple months as work has slowed down some but things are looking better for the future,and its made me work on the small things that needed to be handled over the last 2 months but things are definitely moving forward.
Thanks again all