Remote rad option and opinions street/strip car

As many are aware im in the process of a BB twin turbo build in my 62 valiant street/strip car,im running out of real estate in my engine bay fast. And im looking for some options and opinions on relocating the rad and trans cooler to the trunk of the car, I honestly like the idea of adding the dead wieght to the rear of the vechile. I havent had the chance to get the car on a set of scales as the complete suspension went thru a overhaul and im in the process of finishing it up now. And i need to still buy some rubber for my rims for final chassis setup/ie ride hieght and pinion angle,front end alignment.
I do have a shogun water manifold in my parts stash i bought at a swap meet I'm not sure about using it thou its only got 8an fittings and seam small to me???? I have access to hyd hose crimper and high temp high pressure hose which is pretty heavy compared to steel mesh hose but is pretty much bullet proof,so minus the added wieght of said hose whats your guys experience with running a remote mount cooling system with limited street time. Mounting options would be awesome as well.
Thanks and sorry for the long post

Never seen one that didn't run hot in traffic with the rad in the back

You can save space by using a remote pump. I'd clean up the front of the engine and keep the radiator up front if it was me.

Ill know more about what kind of space ill acutally have in the next day or two I was able to get the front suspension together and once I get the car back on the ground i can final see what kind of clearance I acutally have where i have the turbos mounted,there in the front fenders in the head light buckets. If where there at now ends up working ill beable to run the rad where i had it before.

Andy what kind of remote pump would work best for those water manifolds?

I'm struggling to fit a turbo on a /6 62 lancer with an effective intercooler as we speak ( you know where that came from ) . I think a rear mounted rad is a great solution, and if you don't try it, I will on one off my cars. I would widen the pass side DS tunnel to help with plumbing routing issues, if you are retaining the OEM floor. My first attemtpt at rear cooling is on my 72 pro street Dart thread in the builds forum.
Good luck keep us to date.

For those not well versed on 62's, they have got to be the tiniest engine compartment.

Thanks Jcc I was hoping you would put that turbo log to good use.
Those early A bodys are tight after i made the mistake of not tighten the lower rad bolts i was making some test hits acouple years ago with the turbo 6 and the rad got into the fan....chewed the stock rad up. The week before i was supposed to take the car to the track so i had to figure something out and i ended up modifying a 94 Dakota 4x4 v8 rad to fit that way i could walk into most auto parts stores and get a rad off the shelf this opened up a couple inches of clearance for me.
I looked into adding a intercooler early in the build before i made the switch to e85 so i know wha your going thru keep me posted on your progress Jcc and I'll keep you guys posted funds have slowed me down on the major stuff but ive been tackling small stuff that ive had the parts for and the suspension upgrades are complete and now im only down to final block assembly, buy a torque converter, order push rods,order drive shaft, front and rear tires,finish the hot side and cold side piping and final assembly.
It sounds like alot of work head of me but really its only time and money and this is my second turbo build and these things take some patience.

Ill stop rambling now thanks all as always for your help

I ran my radiator in the trunk when I had a front mount roots blower. It worked fine after tipping it so that it was not flush with the floor. The air that goes in has to go out.
I also have a friend with a misubishi mighty max truck with a buick GN motor in it. The radiator is in the bed. Never had cooling issues. His truck is cool. At the track when doing his burnout, the tire smoke goes though the fan and it looks like there's a tornado in the bed.

Trendz i was thinking if i did mount it in the trunk i could add a couple small trans coolers in series with the coolent lines and mount them under the car where they would see air flow along with a good fan setup on the rad.

I didn't need that with mine, and Im not so sure that the minimal flow of a trans cooler would help much, but who knows. You have that trunk lid with the simulated spare tire right? cut the center out of that and put a fan there!

Trendz You have that trunk lid with the simulated spare tire right? cut the center out of that and put a fan there! [/quote]

Lol trendz sounds like you've put alot of thought in pimping out my ride rain caps on the fenders for my down pipes and a fan on the deck lid cool thoughts. Keep them ideas coming

All the trim has been shaved off the car but the trunk is braced in that area.

I dig what you're doing! I have strange ideas. its just who I am.
Now If I can convince you to paint it bass boat metallic green.....

Funny you mention green here's a logo I use as my avatar on some Internet sites but ive seriously thought of doing a paint scheme similar to this black hood,roof,and deck lid,rims,with eveything else in green fins and all.

Never done it, but wanted to add some thoughts. First, how much water flow does it take to cool what you want to build? Will it take two of those remote pumps to get the job done?
Standard radiator hoses are 1 1/2 inch minimum, and a rear rad will have a LONG pair of hoses that will add some restriction due to length. Depending on how you want it to look, radiator air could be pulled from under the rear of the car and out through louvers in the deck lid, or similar. Going that way would help eliminate the tendency to pull in already heated air from the radiator. The good thing about a rear radiator is you can put a very large core unit back there, I would think. An over sized rad may offset some of the problems like flow rate because it can drop the temp of the water further, taking away more heat per gallon pumped. If you figure out a decent exhaust system that exits up front, then the tunnel/floor pan is free to accommodate the plumbing. Aluminum tubing run the length of the floor pan rather than all hose to the rear rad would shed a fair amount of heat.

Thanks greg for your insight. Im going to give it some thought and do some research I really like the idea of mounting the rad out back as mentioned in a pervious post for wieght distribution reasons.
The car has the frame rails tied and stock floor pan and with 108 inch wheel base were talking about two 10 foot runs of tubing or hose. Attaching and mounting the lines wouldnt be to hard as the drives side frame rails only have rear brake line running to the back. Passengers side has two 10an fuel lines run on that side with fuel cell mounted in the spare tire well.
Exhuast will be dumped out of the front of the car so the undercarriage is pretty much clean for whatever i decide to do.
Off to sunday morning church Ill finish this thought in a couple hours

Dang. That sounds Custom!
I'm in the middle of changing up the Avenger now. Added some Color but no green 😊

I've seen some off road race cars and trucks with the radiators mounted behind the drivers comparments, some of those races are at both slow and fast speeds for over 200 mile in the desert
Maybe they have some insights on which pump and hose sizes to use on the street

Your main concern would be getting enough air
flow across the radiator... a inlet and outlet
and making sure it flows out... I assume your
fuel tank will be in the trunk or using original
tank... but a shroud would be needed for the outlet
side for sure and a fan... a air pick up like a front
spoiler under the car would be fine when your moving
but a fan would be need when sitting in traffic... I
do like the idea that Trendz said about the center of
the fake spare tire... if needed put in other bracing
so that could be used... sorta make it like a carb pan
to seal of the carb with foam so you can open the deck
lid.... JMO.... also 2" alum tubing(common stuff) and
oval it for the length required(added road clearance)

Continuation from above post.

After trendz post and memeber A/MP's pm last night got me thinking,then gregs ideas, if I did decide to mount the radiator in the trunk I would need to
A. Use materials that would help with heat transfer and disperse the heat.
B. Get the Biggest radiator and fan setup i can
C. Introduce air,and away to expel the heat from the trunk.

So off the top of my head heres a couple solutions to A,B,C
A. Like greg suggested I could use aluminum tubing,A/MP suggested running copper, both of these ideas are doable i could ran two lines attached to the frame tie of hard pipe either from the trans crossmember frane to leaf spring box and finish the runs with flexible hose, or i could stub thru the crossmember frame and take the hard pipe closer to the engine bay but either way i could use some compression fittings with npt threads and attach an fitings for the flexible line. Either way ill have to check the nhra rulebook and see whats legal.
B. Look into getting the best rad i can with a pusher fan
C. Introduction of air into the trunk heres what Im thinking theres a step in the in the rear housing well under the shock crossmember that i could louver some way to to bring in air and mount my rad in line with a good puller fan pulling the air from the louver thru the rad.
Now on to trendz idea, I'd need to find a local rod shop with a louver die for a press and take the deck lid in and have punched to help vent the heat,and if need be i could install a circular fan in the webbing deck lid.....
I still need to think about what kind of remote pump or pumps Id need but so far this is what ive came up with,thoughts and ideas always welcome
Aaron

Look up mockstang boys racing on facebook. I think they've got a YouTube video of there remote mount radiator setup on their mus tang streetcar. I plan on redoing my hotside at somepoint and going with a forward facing setup, and putting the radiator uner the trunk floor.

I've already got the dual outlet meziere water pump to do mine.

would a NACA type [i think that is the correct name] duct located someplace be a better air intake into the trunk than an underbody source ? the reason i am thinking this, is the radiant heat from the pavement could [or can] be brutal in the summer heat, especially in traffic gridlock. on those cars, is there an area directly below the rear window with a wide molding [kind of like a 64-66 barracuda] that could be louvered and ducted into the trunk area ? just thinking here. at one time i toyed with a rear radiator setup for my 33 dodge humpback, but gave up on that idea due to proper cooling intake and exhaust would be more complex than i wanted to deal with. i know a corvair and vw bug are small, air cooled vehicles, but where do those two get the intake air from, and how is it ducted to the air fan shrouding on those engines ? these examples may have nothing to offer, but ? then think of exotics such as ferrari and lamborghini mid engine vehicles. how is the cooling system set up on these examples ?

If you don't have the room in your current car, then buy one that has the room. The first car that comes to my mind is a '72 to '74 Dodge Charger. PLENTY of room up front for a huge radiator and an intercooler.

Sorry Dave if i was looking from something with more space I'd do a C body


I had a chance to get some mock up wheels on the car now that the suspension is done and get it out of the garage for the first time in a year and it looks like where the turbos are now ill beable to snake a 5"down pipe around the front tires and out the front fender behind the wheel. Also ill have enuff room to still run the radiator in the engine bay. Thanks all there was some great info had thru this thread

Beat me too it, Youtube: mockstang rear mount rad

Thanks i was having a hard tine finding it,thats a slick setup alot like what i was thinking but it filled in some blanks for me and im sure some other guys as well.

Thats the worst idea... start with a tank..
light small cars just take some work to fit
things in... in some cases .100 is a lot... I
know, I play with small cars.. at times it is
a PITA but its still light

Let's assume you're running 80gpm through 1 1/2" Schedule 40 pipe for 20 feet. Friction loss would be 3.5psi. Increase size to 2" and the friction loss goes to 1psi. Key is using tubing and not corrugated rubber hose. I think the airflow would be much more critical and I'd look at modern racecars to get ideas. I'm thinking like scoops in the sides of the body.

Running E85 could have a really big reduction in the heat load as well.

R.

I'd guess it would take in best case a 12' run of tubing x 2 to plumb this, that's 31? lbs of water in the tubing, plus weight of the tubing, hardware, etc., You calcs for pressure drop are for straight runs, which are not likely in this type of solution?

Wait you are talking pipe, I'm thinking tubing, we are two different pages.