Mikey`s Mopar 470 on the pump.............GUESSES?

Jason Pettis freshened up Mikey`s 470 BB wedge and we finally made some pulls saturday so let`s hear your guesses on hp n torque then Mikey can give the rest of the details when time permits. It has Indy 295 EZ`s Max wedge w/no more that a Pettis valve job, 11.3 comp, a custom CompCam w. .485-.478 lobe lift w/Harland-Sharp 1.6 rockers and .279-.289 dur @ .050 on a 108 lsa installed at 104 and my 1150 2-circuit Dommy on 110 Sunoco fuel............

I'm just glad to hear it's finally running!

I'm no engine guru but I would guess at 723/610 assuming heads ran around 357cfm?, but I'm probably way off??.....just a still interested ex old racer from UK.

I'm going to take a wild stab in the dark 769hp

Big horsepower has came out of Pettis's camp

Some closer than others but lets just say it was more than even Jason and I predicted.............I`ll let him chime in when he can w/all of the details. Another, how high do you guys think he took it to..........

OOH!...OOH!..I have an idea Hey Dom, it was good talking to you the other day.

Back at ya man..............

First, Thank you Dom for all your help. I have to say I as well as the gang was pretty impressed with the whole process and Jason's knowledge. We did 5 or 6 pulls each one made considerable gains, First pull was 707 hp and from there made timing and jet changes and ended up at 770.9 hp on the final pull which Jason wanted to keep going but I was happy there for a stock block. my engine wasn't dyno'ed before so calculating on Wallace my car ran a best of 9.98 at 135 with 1.38 60 foot and 3150lb car with me in it comes to 630 hp? so Jason rebuilt what I had only changing Cam, lifters, Springs, pushrods, & springs & ring pack & his Valve Job. I'll try to post any tech sheets or dyno screen shots when I get home from work. Anyway cant wait to put this thing to the test. Thanks Again Dom your carb makes some pretty good numbers!!

damn that is stout, made about 100hp more than i would've guessed.

You don`t know Jason Pettis............THE MAN in both engine building and chassis tuning...........Glad I could help Mike and enjoy that puppy.........

Glad to hear you are finally going to get her back in the car. Hard to go wrong with Jason's knowledge and ability to make good decisions that end up making power. Now get it in the car and lets see what she runs.

That's my plan AL, still have a bunch of little things to do but I can't wait to see how she does. FYI looks like Jason is going to do Kevin's R-3 W-8 combo and plans are to put it in the purple car.
That one should make some steam!

Awesome. Cannot wait for those results either...

Jason and I were discussing what carb would be best for that and decided on a 1150 and would love to do some back-to-back dyno/track test`s and mess w/the 3 and 2 circuit differences AND which one gets the car down the track quicker.............Enjoy Mikey.............

Very impressive! I was low by a whole lot on my guess, and glad I didn't post it!

Pettis is does awesome work. Congrats!





Ray

What sort of oil system on it? Turning that much RPM, I'd expect there's no room to cheap out on the parts without paying a penalty for it.

I saw a single external pick up and dragster type pan.............

That's what it is, Milodon.

770 HP........ Sloopy hang on!

Very stout!

That's some pretty cold water temp, is this an alcohol motor ?

Nothing unusual for a "power" number to be done with cold water temp, kind of the industry norm honestly. Most guys wanna see a "big" power number and that is how it is achieved. No different than when we run the heads up car. Water as cold as we can get it and heat in the oil, always how you make the best power.

Thanks AL , I understand that , but is that same scenario on the dyno able to duplicated when it's 100 degrees in the staging lanes ?

A dyno can give you any corrected number that you want it to and is one of the best reasons we see engines with high numbers on the dyno and are PIGS at the track. Same with a flowbench. I wish we all ran at some of the coastal tracks but most of us don't and will NEVER see those corrected dyno numbers on the track.

Add in improperly set up/driven cars and it looks even worse on the track.

Not trying to poopoo numbers here. A question was asked and I gave my answer. Generally depending on the dyno and it water tower capacity or where the water comes from they try not to get them to hot. It may take too long to cool down between runs. The dyno this engine was done on from my experience is not a happy dyno by any means. Generally you can out the ole moroso slide rule to the numbers and have a good idea what an engine off of the Pettis dyno will run in the car. Once the car combination is optimized.

Yes it is true you can make a dyno pretty much spit out inflated corrected numbers. That's great for the dyno crowd. Thus why I always say I want to see a quantifiable result from any dyno when it comes to actual ET's. It is pretty standard practice industry wide to make the last pull with things cool off as much as reasonably possible. It does not mena you get 40 more HP buy any means. You will generally see a gain but it aint gonna move that much. Oil temps and water temps are always monitored, or at least shold beon the Dyno.

My engine that was just on the dyno it was hard to get water temps up very high. The reason being the facility uses a city water connection on the dyno. So they have and endless stream of cold wate at their disposal. Just a matter of running the water pump for a few minutes to get the engine temps down. The dyno we used is notoriously stingy for the numbers it kicks out. It is a new DTS/Superflow unit with a state of the art no expense spared dyno room. It has been pretty consistently down on power from where we used to use. And that dyno was considered stingy by some and honest by many. Numbers usually went dead on to the moroso wheel from the old one.

That being said AL, What does a guy do to order or send in the Converter to hopefully match the Dyno results?

As you know AL Jason doesn't need to inflate stuff and has more records than most so I doubt that`s the case but figured this stuff would come up anyhow so we`ll all see soon enuff even though it will probably be hot as hell out...............

Mike I can tell you we ordered stuff right off the sheet from Jason and had no issues. Depends I suppose on who builds your converters too. If they know what they are doing all will be fine, have faith and use a good reputable company with a winning track record for what YOU do and who you run your car. IMO most every converter company has their "wheelhouse" that they seem to do really well at.

As I say the last pull on just about everyones dyno is the one we all get and see. Called a cold pull for a reason. Not often you are going to find a dyno operator that will start a pull at 160-170 degrees like many people stage at anyway.

Jason's dyno is plenty accurate and honest. I have no doubt Mikes car will run representative numbers once he gets it all figured out with his new found power.

My question was not meant to question the numbers , the dyno is nothing more than a TOOL.

I asked because going back to my experience with the Enginemasters actual competition dyno sessions the engines were brought up to temperature and multiple runs were done, and as fast as the engine would come back down to idle the next pull was started. 3 pulls back to back after water temp and oil temp were brought up to a minimum.

When I see the cold water temp on the dyno sheet I know to knock the power number down a little. Not very many bracket guys are set up with a cooling system that lets them pull to the line cold.

We dyno everything at 180 degrees water temp since that is typically what the cars run at. Boat motors get run at colder temps since they'll run colder water in the cooling system.

Guys running E-85 can pull to the line at 160* or less
but it was said if its hotter it ran quicker

We did fairly quick maybe 10 minutes max back to backs towards the end but I got there late............Either way the car IF set up right will tell the story and wish these guys the best..........

Kinda neat how in a few years we went from working with junk parts and beating the piss out of everything to hit the 580-600 horsepower area to well over 700 horsepower on a relatively small cubic inch engine and at an rpm that doesn't self destruct the engine block. Control detonation and it should last a long time.

just sent a couple copys of pulls to Lenny. we went 5800 which worked well, but was not consistent. Raised the stall speed 400 rpm and it was night and day in making the car predictable, but at the expense of some performance. Until the night pass at March Meet, that I should have adjusted for, our 60 time didn't vary more than .002 in seven passes.


.....that said, I have another converter being built right now that will be a little more "fun", albeit, not as consistent.

How does such low comp feed such a big cam ?

When we built stockers at Pettis years ago, the spec book on those "allowable" compressions were fairly low and they flew and a few records were set............cam em to the moon............

Cam 'em to the moon.......just like my old stock 440SP motor at around the 10:1 mark, probably only 9.6 with the old CC .650"/290@.050 solid (not supposed to work), ran like a demon with stock 906 heads, did nothing else but bolted on a pair of 2.14 BV 906's (nothing special cfm wise) on and it picked up nearly 7/10ths and 7mph and only turning around 6600rpm.....what would it have gone like with some 320cfm Eddy's?....we'll never know.

Being that I normally build and race pump gas street and strip motors I have my oil temps between 160 and 200 F and the water temps between 160 and 180 F on all my dyno testing. I've been told by more than one dyno operator, including Jason Pettis, that most motors they test will make more power with colder water temps than what I test with Mine normally don't
As already pointed out more than once, the engine dyno is a tool to measure changes, nothing else
We don't race dynos yet, do we

I can't get my head round this, i was told a .625/.625 275/283 on a 107 was too big for my 470 with 440-1 heads with bowl and guide work, same comp, and yet here's a motor with a .776/764 279/289 at 0.50 and it make all this power, surely it should be a mutt down low but it makes over 700 hp at 6000 ?
Mick

Once above the torque peak the penalties for low compression diminish a bunch I am sure. At peak torque reversion should be gone, so the power loss could be figured from a "compression change only" stand point, I would think. A 279/289 cam may be shorter on working duration than it first appears, if it is an older lobe type with big lash.

Have you run this pan at the track? I couldn't keep it from losing oil pressure when hard on the brakes, running ten quarts.

Unfortunately the torque figures under the curve aren't on the pics so we can't say for sure, also with max torque at 5600, i'd assume that the converter needs to stall at least that. So what are your opinions on the cam i thought of using in my 470 ?
Mick

We ran the Hughes HTL7276 ... maybe it was the 6872 ?? ... in the enginemaster entry, if I remember right the torque peak was at 5000 rpm ... over 600lb/ft and HP was still going up when we stopped the pull at 6700 rpm, contest only pulled to 6500 rpm and it was making over 700hp. I think the heads flowed 330cfm, static compression was 12.2.

Told by who? I run a .680-.660 Isky solid roller w/276-281 @ .050 w/lowly home ported RPM`s and 12.1.1 compression and it runs/drives just fine on the street..............

Greg, Jason only uses CompCams and they grind what HE wants em to............

Here is the cam spec sheet

Mike glad to see you have a happy motor, and that things worked out with Pettis.

Just updating this thread, wondered when the car is back at the track.
Mick

Will be running it in two weeks at Famoso in Bakersfield. It will be hot but I'm hoping for a decent gain, I'll update right afterwards.

That was the same thought I had( especially with the "low" compression.

At 770 horse and 3150, car should definitely threaten the 8's.

My prediction is 9.40's-.50's @ 140-142.

The guy who bought my old car upgraded the motor and had it dyno'ed by Best Machine.
It made just a tick over 700 horse.
It went 140 on S/S springs at 3220 pounds. 9.62 et.
Another 70 horse and 70 pounds less weight should run a whole bunch better than that, hence my comment it should threaten the 8's.

Back in the day, the overhead cam guys used to brag about 100hp per liter. Never get there with pushrods, they'd say.

This engine is almost exactly 100hp per liter. That's what 40 years of rubbing will do!

R.

At that weight and power if EVRYTHING is perfect it might dip into the .30's in really good air. He wont have really good air at Bako in two weeks. I would guess it will run well and make use of that cage and wondow net. And don't think Dwayne is to far off...

Those cam numbers are virtually spot on (1 degree) to an Isky RR735 I started out with in my motor, including the .200 duration numbers. The only difference is the lash spec, .026/.028 If I recall correctly.

I'm with you two.

One thing I forgot to mention is the car is certified,im not. I'm using this event to get my license so I hope I can complete it as well as get a decent run. If I can't get it done the end of this month I will be back in mid September do Mega Mopar.

This thread needs a Thumb Up icon... Good luck Mikey

Thanks Don, I need it.

I'm keeping a close eye on this, as i have a 470 nearly ready to go. A dyno number as high as this places a big expectation on track times, which i can see you're wisely trying to play down. Personally, i don't think it'll run to the dyno figure but i do think it will run deep into the 9's.
Mick

Nice build! Good luck...should run well. The latest build I had some involvement into made just over 820 on c14plus. Ran it in car for years finding both little and big gains ...essentially IN THE CAR. That motor took a few years of the occasional track visit to validate it's BOTH expected and 'observed' numbers. So FWIW I believe it made what it did regardless of what it performs at the track based on the components used and the legacy of the builder. With that being said I was a little surprised by about 25 or so HP.

I'll be at Famoso Sept 17-18.... not sure when the Mega Mopar deal is. Car is sittin pretty Mike!

J - thanks and that's the same weekend. I believe there will be two heritage races back to back, fun ford weekend, mega Mopar, and nitro night all in one weekend. Anyway lookin forward to hanging out with you guys.

Same weekend Jay. Also Fun Ford weekend. I think they're working it like an intervention and not advertising all the details to get everyone there and fill it up. Then like, aww man what are they doing here It's cool with me and hope they run mega against fun furd. Wouldn't mind showing a few blue ovals the door Just hope it doesnt jack with your heritage race too bad.

Just bring and your party hat and follow the noise after the sun goes down

Beat me to it Mike. You feelin the pressure yet?

...... sounds like I better get to Vegas and buy some more VP! Think I'm going to be in a few classes that weekend! btw....I'm still on the fence about SCSN...

We will be hauling a Dart and Duster to the Sept 17 race...see ya there.

Demon naughty and has to stay home?

So two day bracket race at LVMS NMCA West race in Fontana and all these events at Bakersfield on te saem weekend. Seems like par for the course on the left coast. Wish they could spread this stuff out some more..

Pressure??? Me??
Just a little concerned I'm going to miss something with being able to get licensed that weekend and get a few full passes.

You've been on the east coast too long Al.... you make it sound like all those tracks are fairly close!

Exactly the problem Al. They pay no attention to what the other tracks are doing for the same group of racers, and then say the event is a flop because no one supported it.

I like racing at Bakersfield, but I will be in Fontana

Says the guy who likes to wearout trailer tires!

We will be in Fontana ruinning NA10.5 if the thing stays together this weekend in Norwalk

Is that Norwalk Ohio

IS there another We will be running the nmca race their this weekend in na10.5

Good luck, Al.

OK a few test results from this weekend. First the place was packed, very surprised the pits so full, unloaded went to tech and found out my belts were a month out of date . Got that fixed & went to get the first run with front shocks set about neutral.didnt set the twostep so it didn't leave real hard but ran a 9.95 with 1.46 60 ft @ 135. Only got two runs Saturday so I adjusted front shocks a little looser.checked plugs was a little lean looking changed jets from 92 to 96 made second run around 1:30 and was hot, air was 2700 second run it went 9.89@135 and the 60 came up to 1.42 day was over for us so I changes high speed bleeds,adjusted shocks again and changed chip in launch from 3000 to 3400 and went to Sunday eliminations.launched and watched the other guy and never noticed I went red so I was way out on him and lifted.got my time slip and went 9.89 @122
With 1.38 60 but felt like its leaving soft. Not a bad outing considering that's the first time I've been in my car in almost a year and everything is new.there is a lot left in it but only three runs so I need a good TNT to get it sorted. That last run it went 6.22 in the eighth so I'm gaining. Going back the 16 th next month so I'll hopefully have a few more runs.

Just shake down runs and you`ve change just about everything on your car so back to square one. In the vid I saw it wasn't transferring weight and spun a bit so test, test and test some more Mike and you`ll get it.............. Lookin at that slip again, I`d bet you were on a 9.60-70 pass only going 122............

Good job Mike I'm glad it came together for you.. and already is faster then it was before.. these bricks that we drive are hard to make go fast.. trust me I know . I'm happy if it goes home in one piece.lol keep picking away at it..

Well for the HP the runs are slower then some/most of the predictions. BUT, these are some of your first shakedown runs, with the New Combo and we all know that they can be far off from a dialed in combo.

Congrats on the new bests. A lot of your lost ET is at the start as you have already noticed. Also others have stated that track doesn't have the best air this time of year. Congrats on getting it out. Thanks for sharing the first outings results. Looking forward to forward tunings.

Thanks everyone, going back in a couple weeks, first time with coil over front end and double adjustable shocks. Didn't get all I wanted but happy I had no issues with all I changed and did get a personal best. Hopefully I'll get more than three runs.

I have been following this thread and you are right where I want to be! Nice job and I know you have more in it!

always nice to get through the first "new" weekend with everything in tact. now it's just time for seat time and getting comfortable with everything. See ya in a month!

Very nice Mike... Thanks for keeping all of us updated..

Interesting what you said, I had a 499 that Kenny L built when he was with McCandless. 15.19 compression Indy head, long story short engine ran hot then finally got temp down to leave at 160 degrees, lost a tenth and one haft. Called Kenny, was told that engine had to leave at 200 degrees to build heat in the heads?? Did that and ran the good number again. A little confusing when some say run it cold and some say run it hot??

Mopars are not Chebbys or Furds
Many misleading myths on what works best on our cars

Nice first outing, i'm suprised you didn't run it all out after you went red though.
Mick

Honestly I thought I was still in it!....Never occurred to me to look up at the lights, First time in a year in my car so still getting used to it. The whole time I was getting to the ticket booth I assumed I Broke Out!!

Yes, many misleading myths,

Look again.. More like a 9.82..


Chris.

I agree but i'm sure in cooler weather and a bit more tuning a 70 is achievable.
Mick

YOU look again...........he went 9.89 at 135+ then 9.89 at 122........what don`t you get.............

Calculate it off the 1000 foot data.

No clue on that but I scrubbed 10+ mph and lost a chunk of et but don`t remember exactly how much. Plus as I told Mikey and was correct in that the dyno tune would be off and it is. Jason had the mixture screws 3/4 out and it ran bad till he brought em out to 1 1/2 where I had em and it wants more jet as expected also. Dynos are a tool and a way to see if our junk leaks and set BASIC starting points that`s it imo...........That car will go easy 9.60`s or better.............

Thumper,
If we look at the 1000 foot numbers on his full run where he didn't lift it took him 1.649 seconds to go from 1000 to 1320 under power.

If we take the 1000 foot time on the run where he lifted and add the "known" split time from 1000-1320 the car was going to run about 9.82 as indicated above.

Full pass
9.897 to 1320
8.248 to 1000

9.897 - 8.248 = 1.649 seconds

Lifted pass it was 8.171 to 1000

8.171 + 1.649 = 9.820


No one is doubting the car has the ability to run in the 60's, but it wasn't going to do it on that run.

Cool...........I know the math is pretty close but scrubbing 13+ mph just doesn't calculate in my brain............

Losing the MPH doesn't affect the ET as much as you'd think Thumper.

Yep. I stood on the brakes at Norwalk in my slow car, scrubbed 11 miles an hour off, slowed the car down a tenth is all.

Last time out on my 1st pass I pounded the brakes and went 7.1 at 63 mph then a 6.15 at 109 slightly lifting before the 660. Prior to that I went 6.20 at 111.78 all out 2 summers ago..........

Using the previous 1000'-1320' times shows it would have gone about 9.82.

Using the 1/8-1/4 conversion for the 6.22 1/8 shows 9.77(Using the 1/8-1/4 conversion for the first two passes it shows 9.958 and 9.898).

Decent runs for the first outing.

In theory, it needs to run under 6.10 1/8 to run in the 9.50's.

I think horsepower. mile an hour breaks no breaks is all irrelevant... I think the only thing that matters is long as owner is happy... that's all that matters and never judge anything by the first outing.. I would imagine over the next ten or twelve outings you're going to find more et

I agree. That said, based on the mph and weight of the car it's making about 650 ponies. Nowhere near 770. It would have to run about 141 mph to be making even 700
My old Duster went 10.03 first time I ever had it out. Best it ever went was 9.85. Difference in mph from that first outing in pretty good air running the 10.03 to its best of 9.85 was about 1.5 mph. 133.50 to right at 135.

PLEASE don't tell me a dyno inflated the numbers, AGAIN!!!!!!LOL

Lol. Your too much John

Being that his car is almost TOTALLY new and different suspension/engine wise, I still think he will run 9.50`s in good air when sorted out. It`s not leaving right, pulls to one side when launching and has other "new car" issues we`ve all experienced............

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!! LOL
You did see the name TED gave me didn't you.
ST. John

I don't know, but the little experience I have about dynoing an engine is that you very seldom find something like 70 hp with ignition and jetting and other small stuff, unless it's way off in the beginning. Unfortunately ours have not been, so we have had to settle for smaller numbers.

When you scrub MPH at the top end by using the brakes big time, the car already covers 1200+ feet at full throttle, and full mph for those places on the track under full power. The mph before hitting the brakes would have been a lot higher than that in the mph lights. So the 1200 ft numbers (if there were beams there to get em) would be the same.
To see this in a much larger way, look at a top fuel time slip where the guy lifted at the 660 mark and coasted through the mph traps.

Congrats on the first time out with a lot of new stuff. Your 60' times are pretty soft for what it is so no doubt it will go quicker. As for the dyno numbers don't sweat naysayers just keep chipping away. I stand by my prediction and bet that's where you end up. Just keep chugging away.

As for killing ET up top. most any bracket racer will tell you it is VERY hard to kill much ET up top. You can scrub a fair amount of MPH and loose very little ET. As Dustion pointed out do the splits, but since it picked up on all the incriments it would likely have been a tad quicker than .82, but honestly it is all the "hard" data we have to work with. Basing it off the 1/8 mile I'd bet had you legged it out would have been close to 9.78 or so.

They are ALL air pumps and they all work the same way.........regardless of what it says on the valve cover it is.

Got me worried now Lol, my 470 dyno'd at 630 hp, since then i've milled .040 off the head and changed .060 gaskets for .040 so maybe 650 hp, might go slower than my old 600hp combo.
Mick

My Sons .040 (360) duster that weights 3150 has gone 6.40's and is nowhere near 600 horsepower. Looking at your sig something isn't adding up.

Hi, By nowhere near 600 or did you mean 650?

1/8th mile
Your Flywheel HP is 583
computed from your vehicle weight of 3150 pounds and ET of 6.44 seconds.

My[quote=Al_Alguire]Congrats on the first time out with a lot of new stuff. Your 60' times are pretty soft

Basing it off the 1/8 mile I'd bet had you legged it out would have been close to 9.78 or so.

Thanks Al, I set the car up so I could foot brake it for the first few runs and it chattered the tires the first two runs as I'm still trying to understand what shock settings it wants, with only three runs I didn't mess with timing, only jets and bleeds. It nosed over the first two runs about 100 foot before the stripe so a changed the limiter from 7400 to 8000 and I believe it would have been in the 70's if I would have held it. One thing I'm sure is an issue is the engine was dynoed with 2 1/4" headers, I have 1 7/8" fender wells so I'm sure I'm killing some off there, as Far as the neigh sayers I have heard of guys putting their cars together and running to its max potential within three runs......but have never met one?

Congrats on a good outing! Tuning requires alot of passes.

You are roughly down 6 mph from where your HP numbers and car weight say you SHOULD be. There is rarely 6 mph in tuning unless converter or something similar is way off. The part above I highlighted could be a LOT of the reason and is probably that "something". Those headers are likely killing it

Congrats! It'll only get better! This is the fun part...when a new mill runs good and you know there's more left w/ final adjustments!

Hi Mikey, trying to run to calculated numbers from a dyno session/weight is almost impossible as I see it, as you have said those 1.7/8" f/wells will kill off some of that, then you got temps/settings and all the rest of what went on in the dyno room on the day as to what it was like on the day at the track etc. etc. You could change converters and pick up 1>2/10ths and so on, I reckon there's mid>high 9.50's in it with more sorting,...if you use Wallace at dyno no's it'll come up with>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.29
1/8 Mile E.T. : 5.88
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 115.64
1/4 Mile E.T. : 9.32
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 144

That I guess is something to aim for but think it would need some parts changing out first.

Nice looking car btw....good luck with it

Thanks Guys, I Bought a set of 2 1/8" stepped Mazzolini Pro part headers and mocked them up but hated haw close they were to everything, Trans,Plugs, Starter ETC. I went back to my old hookers knowing I was gonna hurt the power but I'm going to have a set made this winter, I appreciate the compliments and know I have a little hill to climb to get where I really want to be but iv'e done it before i'll do t again. I will be back at the track in two weeks so I have time to do a little work to get the car to transfer the weight, Hoping to be able to use the transbrake at that point. I'll update again!

So if I make it we`ll go at it again for a beer or three.............

Now this sounds like some FUN.

You know how we roll at our camp, win or lose that race I win

I would think those small headers will hold it back, although 2-1/4 headers seems big for a 470. The hedman huslers make good power or maybe TTI 2" to 2-1/8" step headers as another option. Custom would probably be the best for power and starter clearance etc.

Yep..

And I'm NOT Crazy..



Chris..

I`ll see how it goes and let ya know just not sure on those bitty 28`s in the 1/4 but we'll see...........

.... schedule in an extra day for MaTS Mike and maybe you can take the long way to Vegas through Kingman AZ and have Greg conjur up a set! Headers in a day! Hopefully I line up with you in eliminations before you get the rust knocked off!

Sound Good to me, going to tweak a couple things for that race on the 17th. Lookin forward to seeing you there!

Don't forget the go-pro Mikey.............

On a 715hp motor I had on the dyno, swapping from my dyno headers(2-2 1/8 x 4) to a set of 1 7/8 x 3.5 Hooker fenderwells cost about 40hp peak to peak, and 54hp at 6500rpm.

With the 1 7/8 headers installed in the car(678hp), at 3450- 3500lbs race weight, it went a best of 9.68 @ 137 in good air.......1.28 60'.

I've been talking with a guy recently who is working through a new combo.
4+ mph difference between two different converters, both custom built for the application, with no other changes to the car.
In his combo that shows up as a 65hp difference.

I'll have it on board this time, me & gauges have never been a friend.

Going to put the Proparts headers on it and work on suspension.h ow far into the collector should the sensor be?

I put mine as far up as i could go, do you run collectors ?

What sensor??? Is it a wideband deal? And man I hope you run collectors Keep in mind this is an average of the four cylinders on that bank, so don't forget to look at plugs too. As far as placement not to close tot he end but not to far up as to be influenced by a single tube either

Good info fast68....once you understand how Wallace seems to be softwared as it were, you find that an S/SS car that leaves at 6k+ just doesn't compute to the numbers spat out as shown below for that weight/hp combo, so>

3500/678hp>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.39
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.32
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 107.48
1/4 Mile E.T. : 10.02
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 134

IF this is an S/SS car or a hard leaver I can understand the lower 60 and hence the ET drop to 9.68 but what about the 137mph, at the same 678hp, shortening distance and time doesn't allow you to build more speed....somewhat confusing? ..One of our legal stockers used to run 10.1's@128

or you get this>

3500/747hp>
60 Foot E.T. : 1.35
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.15
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 110.52
1/4 Mile E.T. : 9.75
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 137

It wasn't a class car, just a regular bracket car.

The moroso chart shows 682hp for 137mph, with an ET of 9.77.
His car left better than a typical car running those numbers, which is why the overall ET was better than the speed would indicate.
The moroso chart shows 138.5mph to run 9.68 but the motor didnt have enough top end pull for that.
Also, keep in mind that's a good air day.
Typical speeds were more in the 135 range.

According to who you talk to and being a single sensor, 8-10 inches past the merge in the collector and PLEASE add an extension like Al suggested instead of just headers by themselves...............

OK, back at it at Famoso. Changed the headers to 2 1/8th stepped from the 1 7/8". Changed timing from 34 to 38. First run at noon and went 9.72 @ 139 and spun on the TB, only change from there was went to foot brake. Went 9.64. @ 139 and 60 foot cam back a little. I'm not understanding the coil overs very much and its not transferring the weight. Anyway the air is around 2600 right now. It still has more in it just need to keep working on it. Only the 5th run on this combo.

Great run, over 2/10's and 3 mph improvement.
Mick

Love it.............now what to all the naysayers........it will go easy 50`s or better when sorted out and Pettis`s dyno is just fine thank you..................

Those headers made a huge difference. Monte was correct.

You picked up .04 @ 330-- .09 @ 660 and .14 @ 1000 and another .035 from 1000' on.

Definitely making 700 hp.


Chris.

Dyno Deffo ok according to that 9.64@139, lots of different calcs around but I've got used to using Wallace in my racing years and this is what it spits out>

3500lbs/771hp>

60 Foot E.T. : 1.34
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.09
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 111.69
1/4 Mile E.T. : 9.64
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 139

with still some sorting to be done, 50's or even 40's are in it, well done. .......a lot of the happy dyno stories are probably because people don't use the same parts and tune that were used on the day in the room and or their chassis just isn't up to the hp, its just conditions that can never really be duplicated.....thats an awesome motor!

Hey Mikey I may have missed it but do you care to share the motor internals

3150# Les

oops, yes Mick 3150 must've been crossed up with another thread/car.....well in that case...

3150/695 fly hp

60 Foot E.T. : 1.34
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.08
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 111.75
1/4 Mile E.T. : 9.64
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 139

I guess there's more hp in that motor to show yet with some more tuning, conditions/altitude etc..............

Loosened my rear shocks QA-1 single adjustable and dropped tires from 11 to 10 lbs and in 100 degree heat got the best 60 foot ever, still footbraking. Air guage was at 3200 feet with 25% humidity. I'm dying to run this in good air!

Coming around nicely Mikey and will fly in winter air and maybe a side by side for old times sake WITH video this time...........

Thanks for sharing the results. Al warned of that tracks average bad running air. You have 9.50s in the bag for sure with some good air. :>)

Sorry for not getting back to you. Been busy but has eagle crank,Hbeam rods, wyseco pistons, Indy 295 EZ heads max wedge ported by Indy. Compression 11.2 cam spec is in earlier post,
block is stock 230 low deck 400 zero decked. 469.2 inch
has isky red zone lifters slight offset. bushed lifter galleys.
Harland sharp rockers 1.6 Manton pushrods, total seal rings.
Milodon external oil system. Jason Pettis overhauled what I had and did his magic with cam, balancing, & valve job and Dyno.

I am pretty happy with it so far, just need to make it hook better now!