Wet sump pan

I didn't want to hijack Andy's billet pan thread, but the discussion moved to pumping losses and the effect of main web windows on power.
So lets talk wet sump pans: is bigger better in order vis-a-vie pumping losses?
I have a Dakota, so there is no center link or k=member in the way, and I'm modifying a circle track pan (dropping the sump 3").
This thing will be huge but since it started as a circle track piece, it is boiler plate heavy.

I remember being told at one of the old Mopar drag seminars that the oil level should be a minimum of six inches lower than any of the crankshaft rotating parts, IE rod caps or rod bolts , whatever is the lowest
As far as pumping loss a crankshaft scraper and adequate oil drain back will help reduce the oil mass influensing the density of the rotating air mass in the crankcase area, liquids don't compress very well Most of the current state of the art drag race wet sump oil pans for motors that the main webbing ends at the center of the main caps use huge oil pans with enormous sumps with kick outs on the passenger sides and not much oil in them
Are you using a vacume pump? If not, why not?

Yes, I'm pretty sure most everyone will agree that bigger is better on a wet sump pan. The only trick is making sure that you have an actual sump for the oil to collect in at the bottom of the big pan.

I'm not sure if kickouts work on Mopar big block engines since the skirt is 3 inches deep. There are people who window the block to get a kickout and maybe that works for them. It certainly takes a bunch of time and money to do it.

For a wet sump dyno pan I usually run the sump about 12 inches deep like the one in this picture.

bigger is better when you have the clearance,when it's limited or you just want extra insurance just add a 3 quart accusump.

Cab, I have a full kick out and am looking at mounting options for a scraper. The best way seems to be welding tabs to the tube that let me put bolts in on that side.
I have a pan evacuation system, but no vacuum pump.
I cut this pan apart to rework the baffles from left turn to straight as well as lower the sump. I'm using trap doors to hold oil around the pickup.

I had one custom built a while back. I wanted a built in pickup with internal baffles, scraper with windage tray. It is shallow with a rather large kickout. Fit's the car nice and holds 12 qt's. I've been happy with it.

Wow, that pan sure is a beauty.

With a deep pan like that my front tires would be in the air setting still.

A pan with the deepest sump the chassis will allow will control the oil the best. The area around the pump or pump pickup needs to be relatively small, trap door divider close. and top plates to get the cover even closer to the pump/pickup will keep oil from sloshing up as much at the launch and at the shutdown.

Like someone said earlier, a skirted Block like a Mope isn't going to benefit from a big bulge on the side of the pan like a Chevy or ford would. Kick outs in the sump are OK for more oil capacity without going lower, but that's about it.

When I finish my next predator engine, I'll be testing it with a huge wet system, then with a complete Dailey dry system to see if power changes. I don't think it'll be anything if vacuum is similar. The only thing I really hope to gain is less aerated oil for the bearings

When done, mine won't be far from the picture Andy posted, but it's a small block. Don't have final dimensions yet, but it won't be 12 inches deep, more like 9". It will have plenty of volume, since the sump is 15 inches square.

I built this one.. its steel right now but I will
build another in alum.. its 9.5 qts but I only run
8 qts... has trap doors, chambers and baffles

After reading these postings I got thinking that it seems mopars are the only ones I have seen these real deep pans . I know back in the sixties there were some on chevy's but now that the cars are lower most run a dragster type pan or kick out type. Being that chevy cranks hang out of the bottom of the block to start with 3-4" , the 6" theory would mean that the oil level would start at 9-10" from the pan rail , then add on the rest of the pan for capacity. I know in a perfect world it would be better but most of us don't.

I made this pan to match the gap in my K frame. Holds 12 Quarts but I still run an Accusump for safety. The motor has a crank scraper & Vac pump & with the perferated steel surge baffles it seems to control the oil real well.

nice. what is the little brass guy above your drain plug?

Looks like a temp sender.. I have one in the drain plug itself
on both the engine and trans

didn't consider that one. makes sense.
is yours on the race car or the Rampage, MrP?

On the Rampage.. I have 1 temp gauge for both of them...
just flip a switch to read either

Trick! That will come in handy for Dragweek. Are you in this year?

Don't want to jack this thread but is that remote filter plumbed directly into the block or are you running some sort of adapter plate?

No.... but I am on the waiting list.. but I'm going
either way..if I dont make it in I will follow along..
this year I didnt even get on the link until it was over
(some sort of glitch)