413 with iron adjustable rockers

My 1960 300F had a pushrod fallout and get bent. I found this out because I lost oil pressure. Took it apart this weekend and found that it has 1964 heads with iron adjustable rockers. I don't have time or money to have a set of 1960 heads redone and installed so I need to fix it. It did have a slight lifter tick on that side when I got it but the car had sit around for 10 years without being driven much.

Where do I find pushrods for this? It has hydraulic lifters.

How do you set it up? How much preload on the lifter? The rockers have jam nuts and they're all there and tight. I assume the preload on that lifter wasn't done right when the engine was put in back in 1997.

You sure you don't have a cam lobe going flat?
I say that b/c the only time I've ever had a pushrod all of a sudden pop out and cause a problem was when a lobe was going flat on the cam. Especially since you say the rocker adjust was still tight.

I would think that factory adjustable rockers were for mechanical cams?? 413 or 426W
gary

Adjustable rockers & hydraulic lifter need a little shorter pushrod. 8.90" iirc. I'm sure Jegs, Summit, etc has em.

The engine has very low mileage but it was done in 1996. We will check the cam lobes.

I actually had that happen to me when I was racing at Bremerton Raceways, but my adjuster was loose. I bent one pushrod and massaged it on the trailer frame, put it back together and ran all the valves. Then finished the day racing. Later I bought a new set of adjusting screws, locknuts and couple of spare pushrods. I wish I still had that car.

A little O.T. to your valve train issue but you may want to also correct whatever issue you have with oil being drawn up from the valley into your intake ports

Part of that was from when they painted the engine black and didn't mask off the heads. This has a draft tube instead of a closed crankcase ventilation system.

Also, when measuring the pushrods, it is the overall length right? The car is 40 miles away from my house but my friend is going to measure one for me.

Turns out the valve in question is really tight in the guide. The valve stem height looks consistent with the others. Looks like we'll be pulling the head.

the cup depth and design varies from different push rod manufactures. I always put a 1/4 check ball in the cup and measure length with a caliper. You then can subtract 1/4 from your measurement to get correct push rod length.

The overall length is 9.060". Here is one of the straight ones. They are silver colored on the intakes and black on the exhaust, if that makes a difference.

Can someone tell me what motor used these heads? Having a hard time finding any pushrods that match this.

Another question would be, can I convert this to the standard rocker setup? Eventually I'll be getting the correct 1960 heads for it but for now I just need to get this thing on the road.

So the length is from the bottom of the cup to the other end. Sorry for all the novice questions but I've not dealt with this before.

Looks like these are marine or HD truck application. Chrysler part number 2899597 might be the right thing.

The non-adjustable valve train from any RB motor will work in your application and I am sure there are many Moparts members that will be happy to swap parts with you Of course that is assuming you have a hydraulic cam...you could also do a cam swap to a mild cam like the repro Road Runner / GTX cam for a little more go. JMHO

What is the casting numbers on both heads? As you know it should have had solid lifters in any of the pre 1965 letter sereis 300 motors, correct? On that pushrod yuo should be able to find aftermarket replacement pushrods for any RB 413,426W or 440 motor with hydraulic lifters and adjustable pushrods to replace the bent one, or you can send one good one in to Manton, Trend or Smith Bros and they will make you one, two or a set like it Let us know what you find and do BTW, one of my old 1958 300D convertables is, or was, in the Carpenter collection. I never own a wege powered one, I missed buying a cherry 1959 E convertable due to draging my feet back in 1964

Call Smith brothers. Give them the measurements and they will hook you up. I would never go from what you have to a nonadjustable valve train.

The 300F used hydraulic lifters except for the 4-speed cars.

I'll have to get the casting numbers from the heads. They start with 24... and have six valve cover bolts.

Maybe these would work.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7442-16

Be sure of which style lifter you have since the engine was rebuilt.
The 1967 and earlier style hyd lifters have a pushrod cup that is smaller in diameter, and the pushrods for those years have one end with a noticeably smaller tip.
If, when the motor was rebuilt, they used the more common 1968 and later style lifters, it should have the correct style pushrods to match the lifters.

Turns out the valve in question is really tight in the guide. Probably gummed up with varnish from sitting so long. Going to pull the spring and see if we can free it up. Ordered a set of new pushrods.

Can someone give me the instructions for adjusting the rockers? I know there needs to be a certain amount of preload on the lifters.

Thanks.

On a stock iron block with iron heads with a small or stock cam I would bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center on the firing stroke and then reset the lifter preload on both valves. I would feel and try twisting the pushrod before starting,(set one at a time) if it moves or not then loosen the lock nut on the adjuster a little at a time and lift on the rocker arm towards the valvs until you get a little bit of slop(up and down movement) between the adjuster tip and the pushrod. Once you have a little clearance slowly tighten the adjuster up while spinning the pushrod to determine when the clearances are at zero between the adjuster tip and the pushrod cup(take your time to make sure it is at zero with no preload or clearances ) When your sure and comfortable with the zero lash and zero preload add from 1/3 to 3/4 turn preload on the adjsuter and lock the lock nut down while holding teh adjsuter so it doesn't tighten up with teh lock nut . Adjust the preload on both valves and then rotate the motor over 90 degrees in clockwise motion looking at the front of the motor towards the drivers seat and set #8. If you want to do one side of the motor at a time then use the firing order to do that side, IE #1 firing at TDC is 270 crankshaft degrees away from #3 firing at TDC, # 5 is 180 degrees from #3 and #7 is 90 degrees away from #5. On the passenger side # 2 cylinder is 90 degrees before #1, #8 is 90 degrees after #3 and # 4 is 90 degrees after #8. #6 is 180 degrees from #4 IHTH and doesn't confuse the real issue of setting the lifter preload properly BTW, you will hear any where from 1/8 to one full turn of preload depending on that persosn likes and dislikes

mopar performance pushrods hydraulic cam adjustable rockers
P4876392 set P4876391 ea.
gary

Mopar Performance shows these having a ball end on both ends.

Got the car back together and running. Cleaned the sticky valve. Pushrods came from Comp Cams. Going to have to find the right heads and replace them later down the road. Someone tried their hand at porting but only on one port of one head. Then they used JB Weld or something to fill it back in. Removed all that and just ran with it. Crappy machine shop that would put out a product like that.