572 B1 NOS Drag Week motor pictures

I'm getting really close to being done with this motor so I thought I'd share some pictures. It's for one of my customers 1971 Duster purpose built for Drag Week.

I'll share more details about it when I have more time but here are a few basics:
572 cubic inches
World Producrs Aluminum block, 10.710 deck
B1 originals fully ported and then Nitous ported/softened but Buck Racing Engines
Callies 4.5" crank with 2.200 tod journals
R&R 7.100" rods with ARP 625 Custom Age bolts
Calico coated Main and rod bearings but mains were too tight so ended up using a set of King X main bearings
Diamond Pistons with hard anodized top coat and Molly coated skirts and tool steel pins, 24cc dish for 11:1 compression, 1.32 CH, vertical gas ported
B1 ported intake with welded spacer and Monte Smith plumbed and flowed 2 kit system
Roller cam .824/.789 lift and 279/294 duration and 115 lobe separation and 112 intake centerline
Isky redone lifters with bushing upgrade
ATI ballancer with crank trigger magnets added
Milodon oil pump and cover
Charlie's custom oil pan with dual line seining pickup
Pro System Domiator built for drag week Nitous motor

Hoping it will make 850hp on the motor and 1,500hp on the hose.

Here are a few more pictures












Andy's nice setup for Jesel belt drives

Nice. no vac pump?
Damper comes that way or you sent it in to get modified?
Good job!
Don

nice piece cant wait to see the results....

Don, you can buy them from ATI.
The pass side valve cover has a fitting for vac pump but not sure if he will run one or not yet.

Looks good... glad I'm not in the same class

VERY NICE!!!

Looks Good Wade, did he get registered?

Didn't know Moroso offered fabricated aluminum valve covers for B1's, do you happen to have a part number?

Looks good!

Sweet!

I think they VC are the same for B1 or standard big block. (I set them on my -1s and thought they fit good but I didn't look carefully, but they slid right down on the studs so I assumed they would fit)

looks killer!!

Hockey pucks for pistons?

That looks really nice, the pan looks short, does the car have an altercation ?

VERY nice!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah love it and want it.

Moroso's custom shop does the covers.

What they all say whish I had it

Nice!

Al, how do you order from their custom shop? I need a set of B1 & W8 valve covers.

What kind of valve spring pressures and what rockers?

T&D paired rocker, 1.75 ratio

Springs are Manley 221425 2.00" 340 seat 837lbs open, 1.150 coil bind and we are .050 from coil bind with .024 lash

Here is a pic of the pan, it has 4 drain backs, 2 on each head (front & back).

The 1# main cap cross bolt hit the oil pump so I had to cut it off.

Very Nice!

Wow.... just wow!!

That should get it done............good work........

looks amazing

Contact for Moroso Fab shop

http://www.morosoindustrial.com/index.html

Nice motor Wade.

Given the HP level on spray, I'm surprised the pistons didn't have all those machined corners blended & radiused before being coated.

Someone has been dragging his feet with billet rocker covers

first time iv seen studs on side of block instead of bolts, was that a special order ?

Studs come with a World block....

There are no sharp edges on the Pistons, they did slightly radius them but they could have been a little more aggressive.

Here is a picture of the nitrous softening Bucks did to the chambers. (I have to go and touch them up because we had to surface them for a small scratch from when we machines the pads down for the T&D rockers.)

Alan, not throwing stones at you specifically but this is what is really getting on my nerves anymore. It takes forever to get anything done. Chassis shops, engine/machine shop and paint & body guys are the worst. lol

I hear where you're coming from Mike, my friend who bought the orange Dart from over your way is having the same problem. Put his car to have some chassis work done, was told it'd be done in 3 weeks. 5 weeks later, still hasn't been started.

As for the Rocker covers, been bogged down with my divorce. I'll have something done by June

Sorry for the hijack!

Is the "softening" that 'semi-hemi" cut on the opposite side from the spark plug? I have a set of B1s that have been milled to 47cc chamber and that "semi hemi" cut would go a long way to making the chambers larger.

Edit: I looked at my 47cc chamber heads and they have been surfaced all the way to the edge of the 2.44 intake valve seat. No room to "semi hemi" left.

That looks like a big scoop cut in that pic......but it's not. Usually it's only about 2 CCs in the taper cut. So no, just "softening" the chamber in your 47CC heads isn't doing much

is my eyesight getting that bad, or does it appear from the pic there seems to be chatter marks on the valve heads ? if it is just the shadows of the pic, ok. but if it is chatter, what is it's purpose ? can you catch it with your finger nail ?

Finally finished this one and got it on the Dyno.

I was hoping for 800-850hp but expecting just 800 so I and my customer were very pleased with the 904hp number.

This was with 91 pump gas that I picked up at the Quick-Stop on the way to the dyno.

The header gaskets we used were hanging into the exhaust ports close to 1/4" all the way around, the headers were some that were just given to me and have mufflers on them so there were a few more HP left on the table.

I'd like to publicly thank Monte for helping me design of several aspects of the motor (and of course the awesome work on plumbing the intake).

I'm not a nitrous guys so my work is done with it but it's build and designed to handle an additional 800+ HP of giggle juice.



Dyno Sheet

Nice numbers, but....... You ran it without any crank case breathers?

lol that's sort of a funny story that almost wasn't funny.

The breather fitting on the passenger valve cover hit the nitrous solenoid so I put a plug in it just to keep the dirt out while finishing the motor.

Fast forward to starting it up on the Dyno to get a little heat in it so we could check for leaks and then set the Hot lash when we noticed oil starting to run out of the valve cover gasket...

Yep, I hadn't put the breathers on, luckily it didn't blow out any seals or cause any problems.

Ran to the parts store and put together a make shift breather and starting making dyno pulls.

Fantastic stuff, Unfortunately way out of my reach this level, would love to take the step of an ali aftermarket block one day.

Thanks, this one is much nicer than my stuff too, I did save for 10 years and bought an aluminum block a few year ago but it's just been sitting waiting for me to save up enough to buy the rest of the parts to put it together.

That motor looks a lot like the 500 I am putting back in the KOS Demon. My B1 heads have a water outlet between the center ex ports also. Goes to the suction side of the Indy reverse flow /CSR water pump. Single stage fogger on 10-1 CR. Nice job getting 900 on pump swill. You guys didn't spray it?

Question on using pump gas and NOS - do you use pump gas for the NOS system? I want to change the car's plumbing from a separate tank/pump for the NOS and just use one regulator for both the carb fuel and the NOS fuel. Doing that what size main fuel line to the regulator to support the carbs and the NOS? I think the carbs are an-8 and the NOS is AN-6, with AN-10 from the tank/pump. Doing it that way I would have to dead head the regulator as the only remaining port on the regulator is for the fuel pressure gauge. I am guessing the motor will make around 600 on the motor, and I have 250 HP jets installed for now.

You should have a separate regulator for the nitrous solenoid. One for just the motor. Run your main feed fuel line to a log w/ 2 regulators on it. I'm assuming you have a big pump w/ the bypass line from the pump to the cell.
I'm surprised your Demon had two fuel systems on it. I figured he'd have had one big pump to feed it all.

FWIW...I've heard a lot of horror stories about spraying w/ pump gas. Especially w/ bigger systems. I switch to race fuel when I'm gonna spray mine. Sure it can be done, but leaves a lot of power on the table b/c you have to take so much timing out of it.

A 500" B1 motor ought to make a lot more than 600 hp unless you used a cut down broom stick for a cam.


BTW Wade...you did an awesome job on that motor...it is a beast!!!

You can spray however much you want on pump gas. We did it several years at the Pump Gas Drags. However, to spray it hard, you will need to pull a boat load of timing from it, which hurts the power. Having a small cell and spraying race gas helps, but is still a compromise, because the pump gas octane kills the race gas octane and you still have to pull significantly more power.

The best way to set it up is the way we do Drag Week cars. Either two tanks, or one tank with two sides. Say 15 gals of pump gas and a 5 gallon race fuel side. ONE pump. Some simple ball valves in the feeds and on the pump return, allows you to switch from street to race gas with the turn of a couple valves.

As Chip said, the nitrous system needs it own regulator on the fuel side............ALWAYS!!

It had two 5 gallon cells with two BG400 pumps. I was afraid the neat single reg wouldn't work, cause it was gonna be too clean of an install and allow just a single gas pressure gauge.

Can someone point me to a log to mount two BG regulators?

The cam is a regrind of the huge cam that came with the motor. Now a Lunati http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1556&gid=370 cut on a 114 LSA with 1.7 rockers. Hard to find cam blanks for the 48* raised cam on this motor.

You don't need two BG regulators. Use the cool 4 port BG on the carb and a 20 dollar Holley 803 reg on the nitrous. That rear port on the BG reg is a "flow through" port. Probably a #10 oring thread. Put an oring fitting in it, with a bent 90* adapter to the bottom of the 803.....done. No log required

Would running a line from the carb reg to the second NOS also be OK? I will have to see which of the 4 ports do not regulate as I thought all 4 were, as well as the pressure tap.

The bottom is the feed, carb outlets on sides. The big ports front and rear that are plugged, see pump pressure. So they are "flow through". Put fittings in one of these and attach nitrous system reg

Why would tying the feed area of the carb regulator to the feed area of the NOS regulator be different from using the 4 ports on one reg? Would the sudden NOS fuel being turned on make the reg slow to respond if it was also supplying the carb WFO fuel?

My regs both feed from the side large hole. I can rig this with the pass through with the present locations of the regs. Still gonna be using one type of fuel for both systems, and the engine at 10-1 will use pump swill. I need to get a different fuel tank setup and may do a dual fuel deal.

Sheet I got for 22/26 jets has a 6* timing retard. 26/32 has more.

Hey Monte, I was going to put the fuel into the bottom of our BG reg the other day but no good, that port is not for fuel in.

^^^^^^^^That may be, been a while since I looked at one, but I know for a FACT that rear plug is flow through and sees pump pressure. So he could plumb the nitrous reg off that rear port and there is no need for a log. Plumbed a many a Pro-Mod like that.

Air......you can't use one of the carb ports, because it is already regulated. The nitrous reg needs to see pump pressure

I am gonna start another thread about fuel systems. Sorry about jacking your thread Wade and that is a badazz motor you built.

Well..in this latest issue of, "As the Mopar World Turns"...

The 71 Duster this engine was slated for was sold.

Then, imagine my surprise when I walked into my brother Dale's garage to find him and Boone fitting this engine in The Vanishing Point Race Cars built 7.50 cert, mild steel, double frame rail 70 Duster previously owned by Mike Crick.

Plans are to shake it out as a race car, then begin to convert it for Drag Week use once the performance is base lined...

Vanishing Point builds a nice car...makes me want to throw all my stuff away and start over...

I might have to sign up to be Dales Trunk Monkey for DW17... Looking forward to seeing the new ride.

You are getting the Trunk Monkey stuff down pat.LOL

Dale is a busy man this winter...572 B-1 70 Duster, 572 Hemi 63 Plymouth, 572 -1 Gremlin, 572 -1 70 Challenger, Indy 572-13 headed 572 71 Duster all at his house right now with varying degrees of attention needed. So bad the 512 or 440 powered cars don't even get mentioned...

Jeff,
We have never once had all the Trunk Monkey positions filled on Drag Week...the Gebharts always seem to have a vacancy or two for qualified individuals, woefully unqualified is actually more fun, however!!

That looks to be seriously fast. When completed.

Wade did you try less timing on this motor? If so how much and what where the results?

Sheesh Billy!! you've had that bar in front of you set pretty high by your brothers.

That is a nice car for sure. I would have bought it had it been a moly car.

I realize Mike doesn't usually run really fast cars, but I am still surprised when people have new, double rail cars built and they are mild steel

More Pics of the car!

And I might volunteer for Monkey duties, just have to make sure I have the Vacation...

Yeah, I was taken aback, but I think the car will work out perfectly for the new owner, and will move our learning curve out a few points in the process!
The goal is to give the customer a reliable 7 second ride, and a car that will complete DW while doing so. Nothing earth shattering, but we will be thrilled if it works out.

Very cool, Mike Crick is good people