315 Drag Radial Guys...........Step in.

What width rim do you guys run, meaning what is the widest rim you would run with a set of 315's?

And how do you secure them to the rim, do you use bead locks or screws or?

Thinking of going this route....But the car makes a ton of torque.

Some run 15", I think 14" is still the most common

One of my coworkers runs an x275 car, it seems all of the competitive guys use beadlocks. Not sure if it's functionally better or just easier for tire changes without a machine though.

Really that wide for a tire with 11" tread?

I'm looking to get some 13" bead locks made. As wide as I can go in my local class. I've seen many on 14's, I seen one on a 15, after seeing it , I would not try it. 12 is pretty common. Current wheels the tires are glued on

Why the bead locks and not rim screws?

My current rims are 15 wide, and I am sure that is too wide for these. I was thinking 12, but wasn't sure.

Got a link to the tires? I had it saved in my favorites and it says no longer available. Not sure what is going on with M&T, but if I am going to give Drag Week a serious look-n-see, I will have to switch to a set of these and I need tires anyways this year.

You should not use screws on radials, it can tear the bead apart. Dump the 15's and buy the 12's. M/T old 315's are on the way out, the new 315 Pros are just becoming available. Take a look for those, I'm sure you will like them

Absolutely no screws! Use high tack on the bead, permatex makes it

Yeah, I am having trouble finding the M&T in a 315 listed on Summit or Jegs.

My real problem then becomes how much offset can a rim take?....My Dana 60 is old school short, and most of the 12" will be out towards the fender lip...

I run a 12" rim with my 315's.Wouldn't want to run anything wider imo.

I think I am done, didn't see anything with a real short back space....I now remember why my rims have been on my car so long.....Drag radials are made for street cars...Not Pro-street cars.

Cause I can't get a short enough back space with a 12" rim!....All of the ones I looked at listed as 4.5 as the shortest. I think that is what I run with a 15" wide rim!

I had some 14.5 32's on mine as a street car. Champion makes 3.5 inch back space for a 12" (or larger wheel)....I bet they would go smaller if you ask

On Mickey Thompson website they recommend a 9.5 - 11.0 rim for a 315-60-15.

Yes I know, and I made a mistake by going by that. Maybe it's for leagle resons from people not using bead locks??? I went out and bought some 10" wheels. I'm the only person in my class using them. They explained to me the wider wheel lets the tire flatten out for more rubber on the ground. Here is a pic of them on a 10" wheel. As you can see by the dust from rolling it around the shop floor, there is only 7 1/2" of rubber hitting the ground

Most 315 class "hitters" put the tires on 14 or 15 wide beadlock wheels. We use 12s, but only because the car won't hold wider. Beadlocks support the sidewall much better than screws, stiffening the sidewall even more, plus as mentioned above, you shouldn't use screws in radial beads. These tires do NOT slip. They are hooked or spinning. Screws will rip out on a hard leaving car. I would never trust glue.......of course we go low 1.0 60fts

Bogart, Holeshot, Champion and some others will make whatever you want. Last year when Murder Nova and Chief put radials on their cars for the first time, to make them "look" right, some company built them some wheels with basically NO offset. Don't remember which company it was, but can find out

I won't be anywhere near a 1.0 anything in 60ft....Hoping for around a 1.30ish...Made too many changes to know what it will run.

Yeah finding a set of bead locks is going to be tough, let alone a tad expensive. I looked up a few on YB and saw what they looked like with too wide of a rim....Looks like 12-13 wide is pretty close. I can shoot for 12" and go from there.

I really like the new Mickey Pro-5 ET Drag Wheels....Those look awesome, and a little nostalgic. My guess is I would need 2.5 to 3.5 back spacing, might even be 1.5...I could buy the tires and then figure it out, unless someone has a set that's totally shot I can have. I just don't want it to look funny tucked way too far under the car if I go this route.

Why not run the Hoosier qtp?

Not sure if the current ones are the same compound I had years ago, but the M&T ET Streets are way better when I switched. Been using those in 31x16.5 for ever now. Might just put another set on at this point. I thought it would be easier to find a reasonably priced set of rims and go DR 315's till I realized how little back spacing I use......Not looking easy to do with my setup unless I want to spend $3200

Weld makes the Draglite in a 3.5" bs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-90-512346/overview/

Like others have said DO NOT USE SCREWS.
I have 28x10.5's on a 12 inch wheel.
Centerline wheels you can get with 3 3/8 BS

On a good track the drag radials will most likely 60' better and drive down the track 10x better. I switched from Hoosier qtp and will never be going back. I rum a 325 50 drag radial on a 12" wheel with no screw or bead lock. I would think the 315 would be fine also

how much taller and wider is the 295 to the 315 tire

The 295/65 is 1" narrower but the same height.

Neither. The 315 is nearly an inch wider and is 2" taller if you get the 295/55. The 295/65 is same height and an inch narrower

Buy the wheels you want, then send them to Mac-Fab for beadlocks. End up cheaper, lighter and truer than buying factory beadlock wheels

Try Sander Engineering Wheels. They look a lot like the M/T wheel and are a true 3 piece wheel. Probably build any offset you want. Unless something has changed, the M/T wheels are nearly impossible to get right now. Going through some type of change

Dragula, I ran QTP's for yrs(31x16.5x15)then tried 315's last year, 60ft were 1.36. I run the Weld Magnum 2.0 Gold series with 3"BS and it looks good.

My junk had the opposite affect..........Hoosiers were way better than the ET-Streets.............

Monte...I've always run screws in the drag radials since 2006 running mid 9s and 60 footing low 1.3s. Never really had an issue w/ them as far as I know. My car is a lot faster and harder leaving now than it used to be though.
I'm wondering should I just remove the screws and glue the beads? Then I'm stuck w/ ugly holes in the rims.
Don't think I can swing bead locks right now.

Call Tommy at Mac-fab.......he does a great job and does it cheap

These are 315's on 12 inch Champions with a 3 1/2 backspace

My car is new and there only a hand full of passes on it, I haven’t even started playing with the shocks yet. But I can say glue has been good enough to hold for low 1.2s so far

Personally I wouldn't trust it at that weight and power. Seen these cars twist 40 spline axles and basically break EVERYTHING in the driveline. No way I would risk knocking a tire off the bead at the hit, but that's just me.

What exactly could happen running rim screws in a radial?

Could rip them out. Slicks slip..........radials don't. There is a big difference is a dead hooked tire and one tracking a little

1.13 with a 15x12 no beadlocks just high tac. 3050lb x275 car.

Same here, I liked the QTP's alot better than the ET Streets.

QTP and ET Streets are bias ply tires. The ET Street Radial and Radial Pros are totally different construction. You can't compare the two tires. The radial will ALWAYS be faster when you hook them

If you are good with it, that is all that matters. I just said that I would not be comfortable with it. Nothing even happens until it does......LOL!!