Cam choice for 505 to run 10.50's

Motor will be a 4.25 stroke 0.030 Source kit. CNC Source heads cut 76cc , around 11:1 comp,stock port size . Victor or M1 single plane (have both)with Prosystems HP1000 . Do have a dual quad Modman and 1050 dom i could run with adaptor . 5000 stall , 4.1 gears , 28" radial slick . 68 Satellite 3660lbs with me .
Narrowed to 3 choices :
Comp cam #23-634-5 , 305/320 advertised 279/287@050 , 650/630 lift , 110 lobe seperation
Howards #720.21208 , 302/308 , 274/280 , 643/659 lift , 108 lobe seperation
Lunati #30230918 , 308/316 , 279/283 , 617/632 lift , 106 lobe seperation
Car is bracket raced , plus is my daily driver .
Anyone run these ? . Or are they too somilar to worry ? Is nitriding the cam a good idea ? I will use Howards edm lifters .
Any imput appreciated .

Tex

Top one`s too big for that comp and the others MAY be cos I`m at 276-281 @ .050 at 12.1.1.............

That Comp is in my brother's Edelbrock Rpm headed 493, 11.4 to 1. Replaced a 300/.639 Howards, and solved some of the detonation issues he was having while driving on the street with 91 octane in the tank. He really likes it on the street.

Aside from bleeding off pressure, how was the torque down low and mid........?

About the same as the Howards. We hurt the launch with a tighter converter, but the mph was the same, it's far from sorted out, Weiand tunnel ram with 750's. 11.04-121, 3850lbs, and less aero than a 4X8 sheet of plywood.

NORMALLY you`d think the relatively low comp wouldn`t favor that much duration and my car falls in that same category, but again, more "myths" debugged...........I know they can run strong this way but I also know efficiency CAN become less than desireable unless you make up for it w/converter and gears and in some case rpm.

Dom ,
don't you run 470ci and a roller ? sorry if I am wrong .
my understanding is to go 2-3 sizes bigger over your 440ci choice when going stroker . I have 293adv,258@050 cam in current motor .
Billy ,
I did see your input in the other threads . Yes I also run 98 pump gas . I am in the 120/122mph range now . but a little inconsistent et wise .
I am hoping for around 615/625 flywheel HP
I should hope to not shift above 6500 , I shift at 6000 now

Tex

Dwayne Porter nitrided my solid flat tappet for me and I would say its a good idea. I also run the EDM lifters. My solid flat tappet is 264 and 270 @ .050 with .585 and .592 lift and a 110 LSA. And my eng is 10.6 comp as it runs fine on 92 pump. Ron

I agree w/Ron regarding nitrating. I also went that route and used the Comp Cams EDM lifters. Just good insurance.

Not enough head for those cams.Saying it in a nice way not to hurt anyone feelings.

Scrap...the problem is not enough head for the cubic inches, hence the need for that much duration. Can't wait to try that Comp grind with some nitrous...

Yes sir .680-.660 and I do like to step up the dur. but I have 12.1.1 and will go to 13.1.1 next time to better utilize whats there.......

I had heads that flowed 375 @700 511 cid 3100lb car on alky .714 lift 272 278 @50 run 8.70.maybe AndyF will chime in.He's up on all that stuff

If those are the only choices I would run the Howards cam and install it at 102 to 105 intake lobe center With that weight and pump gas the motor needs to make all the power it can in the first hundred feet to get it to E.T. like you want

Run the Lunati if you have to pick from one of those three. The tight LSA and big duration will hurt the low end, but you have a 5000 converter and 505 ci. It will also come on like a freight train in the mid range and fall off early because you have a limited cylinder head and 505 ci. And finally, it doesn't matter if it falls off early because you have 4.10 gears and 505 ci. You also want to drive it daily, so you might as well make better mid range peak power where you can use it, than better average power where you can't.

You know i love your car Ron . I will try to call Dwayne next week for his recommendation .
Thanks for all input , a lot to consider .
To clarify , these are flat tappet not roller cams. Sorry if this wasnt clear .

Tex

I tend to agree with thisview, especially if the heads are stock. Anything above .600 lift will not be the best choice.

Ragnar

I agree to a point about peak head flow being the limit that`s why I go bigger in lift and duration that way I pass the peak on opening and closing and believe P-body does the same thing iirc.......

Thanks for the kind words. And I love your car and how good it runs now. I am sure its gonna run real strong with your new combo. Dwayne is a good guy and will treat you right. Ron

If this combo goes 10.50 I will be impressed. Good luck to you.
Doug

I try to.. if the head peaks at .600 and you run
.700 lift it sees that .600 twice with the time
in between.. if you go .600 it sees it once and for
only a short period of time... specially on a limited
head you need more time to get the A/F in there at the
upper RPM when things are happening fast

I guess old age is setting in for me, cuz I wouldn't run a cam that big in anything I had to use as real "transportation".
Those cams would be fine if it was an open header bracket car, but I'd scàle it back a little for closed exhaust if it were mine.
But, I'll admit my tolerance for poor street manners have dropped quite a bit in the last 10 years or so.

For an "off the shelf" cam for that combo, something like a Hughes 6872 is about as big as I'd go, with street duty in mind.

Come on Fast, you`re not gettin older just WISER.......... I drive my dart quite a bit and have no issues w/276-281 @ .050 and 97 degrees of overlap and runs/drives fine on junk Cally 91 and idles nice and clean thankxxx to my carb guy...........

I ran the numbers thru Controlled Induction and it agrees with Hughes 6872 for that combo.

If you go too big on the cam you'll lose the bottom end torque but you'll never reach the full power potential of the big cam since your heads aren't really big enough for the engine. So the big cam kills it down low and the small heads kill it up top. Been there and done that a bunch of times myself.

Thanks guys , Dwayne and Andy .
Doug , i have gone high 10.80's with current 440 . That only runs .520 net lift 258@050 cam . 505ci - got to gave a goal

Tex

I don't see why you couldn't run 10.50 pretty easily actually.. You stated you have already been in the 80s. The cam you have currently sounds like it's pretty decent. If only it had more lift. I would aim for as much lift as possible. A wider lsa has better street manners. If you can get a solid 11.1-11.5:1 cr, a good ported intake manifold, and rest of the combo to match I think you'll get there. With the bigger ci you can shift 5,500-5,800 and it will work out decently. Keep cam on the lower side @ .050 like you have, advance it even, it will work. A 1,000 cfm carb should be about perfect. Get the right primary size, length, etc right to maximize combo. Matching combo, attention to detail, and some decent parts will get you there.

Been given some great replies here Tex, I'm not great at picking cams so have shut up here, only thing would say is sell the heads and buy some Trick Flows

I know just what Dwayne means as I like my 63 so much better with the full tailpipes all the way out the back. The car is not as loud and thats fine for me as I like the sound of a capped up hotrod that dont give me a headache but still sounds nice when I lay into it. Guess I have mellowed out some myself. Ron

Al , yes all great help
Not sure if changing from full CNC stealths to Trickflows is it. If i swapped heads i think Indy EZ with a MW port would be my choice
Well roll on the short block.

Tex

What do your heads flow Tex ? Trick Flows are around 330 with stock port. I want some for the young blokes VG Valiant.

Al
315@600 , 320@650
That is quoted numbers as heads done by Modern

Tex

Ahhh OK That's better than I thought they would be.

What are the upgrade differences from your 10.88@122 combo? To go 10.50 you need an additional 60-70 hp.
Doug

If this is really a daily driver, you don't want the most aggressive lobes. Those will beat up springs and valve jobs faster.

Not sure what my e-brocks flow now but going from ported 906`s and a solid 590-605 Isky cam to my stage one ported rpm`s and an Isky .680-.660 solid roller took me from 10.40`s to 9.90`s then I added a 2.19 intake valve and super ported the rpm`s and went 9.79 first pass of the trailer w/way more left........

Looks to me like it's about 60 cubes, better heads and at least 10deg more duration with close to .100 more lift.
A 60-70hp gain seems well within reach.

Smallish intake port with good velocity so i might lean closer to a single pattern of around 278 @.050 but maybe a wider 109-110 split since overlap will not be your friend on the big end and put it in around 104-105. Cab makes a good point about tying to use it all up before the small port velocity becomes a restriction but by the same token torque won't be an issue with that many cubes and stall.

I would look to Dwayne to cut you a fairly agressive at .200 but still streetable .875 base circle solid lobe but to me that combo cries out for a roller since it would benefit from a lobe that can park it at or near peak lift rather than have to go up past and over to get the same effective duration with a solid flat tappet.

I have a 264/268 @ .050 hydraulic roller on 108 in at 102 in my 11.7:1 517 max wedge and its perfectly streetable to 7K with great flowing CNC Chapman max wedge heads. So that would compare to about a 274/278 @ .050 solid flat tappet profile, at least off idle and in terms of RPM range.

Regardless on cam you're going to have a 'saturation' point rpm with a small port and modest compression on a big cube motor. Going too big ( past a certain point) can cost you drivability at a greater offset than your gain in power.

I think dwayne had a couple cams for sale, one of them i had my eye on, that might be close, dont forget that with a solid roller you can generally regrind them about ten degrees at .050 and 2 degrees tighter or looser by going to a smaller base circle for about $125 bucks or so.

Doug ,
55ci , bigger cam especially lift and possibly fitting a dominator over the 4150 hp1000 . Though that may not be the big gainer .

Tex

Brad ,
That is something to think of , thanks
Wize ,
Roller isnt in my future though i know i may give up some hp . Cost is a big decider , Aussie peso is 2/3 US $ . But also simple and reliable

Tex

I know a big cam @ .050 is needed to get the flat tappet to "ramp up". Then there's poor flowing cylinder heads that need big duration to fill the cylinder. Mean while you're running into losing torque with going bigger @ .050. Torque is what's important for this combo, and very critical for a heavier car. Those heads are pretty dang good actually. Yeah they're still a little small for the cubes, but I have friends running combinations like this with less flowing heads. Since the heads aren't a ootb 440 source head that only goes 250ish cfm I would lean towards a cam that's in the 260s @ .050 and go for as close to .700 lift as possible. You can go with the 875 lobes so it would be easier on springs. I would use a beehive spring with a 875 lobe combo. This is just my thoughts and opinions. I know some guys on here that are very knowledgeable, and have a good idea on what works. I know of a cam guy that can really get you a nice set up going. He would probably recommend something close to what I am already saying but he has all kinds of other tricks, and details to the cam specs that plays into it.

A Dominator will pick the power a fair amount, especially if you use a good intake. The Mopar M1 4500 is a good one if you can find it. I think I saw one in the parts section.

I have a little bit of experience going 10.50 in a 3600lb car thru street mufflers and air cleaners on the carbs. My combo is this:
4.15 eagle crank, wisco flattops, indy little ez heads, small comp roller 272/276 at .050 with .620 lift in at 106 cl. plus the dreaded factory crossram intake with 2 eddy 750's. 4.30 gears and 29.5 tires. I shift at 6200 rpm and cross at 6700, the valve springs last a long time. I know you are talking about a solid lifter cams but this roller looks smaller than the ones listed.

Cab ,
Sorry for my poor responce . These cams are ground on 104 intake centreline
Thanks

Tex

Andy , what about using
a 4500-4150 adaptor ? I have both M1 and Victor 4150 manifolds

Tex

Shaking my head at everyone trying to compare @.050 duration from a flat tappet solid to a roller...just stop, OK!

I don't know if the typical 300/650 lift solid will get Tex to 10.50's, I really don't know...I wish the car was 200lbs. lighter!

Here's what I do know. I ran a 440 with slightly cleaned up Edelbrocks in my Challenger for nine seasons with an NF69 Ultradyne in it. 304 advertised, .277@.050 .640 lift 108lsa installed at 104. I flogged that combo within an inch of it's life. 3 different converters, 2 different planetaries in the Glide, 4 different rear gear selections, recordable rpm playback on every single run. The car was 2850lbs, I had an 1150 Dominator.

The eight inch that stalled at exactly 5400 rpm was slower than the 9 inch at 5100, because the engine was already past peak torque. The 4.88's and 4.56s were slower because it's tongue was hanging at 6400, that was all it had! Best pass was 9.96-132 with 430 gear and 9 inch converter, shifting from 1st to second at 6000 to get back on the 'vert as soon as possible. Remember, this was with a 14X32.5 slicks.

So, if you try to convince me that a 505 needs less duration than that 440 did, well Tex better sell that converter and get a 9.5 that stalls about 4200!

Second, my brother's truck, while far from reaching it's potential so far, was an absolute peach to drive on the street with that big Comp. 1200 miles on Drag Week on the same set of plugs, and never a wimper.

That 6872 Hughes is an awesome cam, I really like it. Just change converter and gear, and shift it at 5800.

Adapter on mine Tex, but I'm sure Andy will have relevant info on whether it's a good idea or not, poor guys do what they can! I was kinda married to my adapter at the time, because it had two sets of spray bars running through it that I really liked...

I use to use a Isky solid lifter cam that was known as thier 590/616 cam, 310 and 314 advertised and 282 and 286 at .050 ground on 104 LSA,if my memory is half way correct.I would installed it at 99 to 101 intake lobe center, that cam flat worked very well That grind is no longer on thier list of shelf grinds but they will grind one on order The best solid lifter flat tappet I've owned and dyno tested was a Reed cam that was suppose to be ground on 104 LSA but it was ground on 101 LSA I called and Reed offered to take it back and make me another one but I had a dyno date already scheduled and I wanted to run the motor with that cam to see what it would do I installed it at either 100 or 99 intake lobe center and ran it on the dyno, that particaular motor, 452 C.I. stock stroke crankshaft, pump gas flat top pistons with valve notches, 906 heads and a Eddy RPM intake and a Holley 850 D.P. carb. made the most HP and Torquue of any of the 11 stock stroke 440 motors I had built and dyno tested up to that time The owner put it in the car,1965 Plymouth Satelite bucket seat car with air, power steering, power brakes and so on. He said it ran way better than the old 496 C.I. 426 street wedge motor did The original 426W pump gas stroker motor had a smaller Comp Cams 292 H cam in it which struggled to make 500 HP on the same engine dyno two years before That 452 C.I. motor made 535 HP on CA 91 octane pump swill He also said that it pulled way harder from idle to over 7000 RPM than the old stroker motor did, he would shift it at 7000 RPM because he ws scared of blowing it up
With now knowing that cam is ground on 104 LSA I would installed it at either 99,100 or 101 intake lobe center Which ever I could get with that timing set IHTHs

I agree, if those were my only choices, I would run the smallest, the Howards cam.

But, what do you mean that all those cams were ground on a 104 Intake centerline.

Cams are grounds at A LSA and not at a Intake centerline. They are installed at a specific ICL

You stated differences of 110-108-106 LSA for the three separate cams. Im sure they weren't all ground on a 104 LSA Did , you mean a recommended installed 104 ICL

Also, I wouldnt use any of the cams you listed for what your doing. The hughes cam listed 6872 would be better IMO too.

Honestly, one of the main reasons I recommended a cam as big as the hughes 6872 was because it seems like Tex is intent on using a fairly big, fast rate cam.
If I were the "project engineer", in light of the self described "daily driver" status for this vehicle, it would get a smaller and slower cam than anything that's been listed so far.

A 505 with CNC stealth heads and a good carb, intake & exhaust, 10.5-ish compression will easily make 625-650hp with a solid lifter cam that isn't set on "kill".

My own 3670lb 68 Satellite went 11.23 @ 119 with a 485hp 383, running unported 906's and a .560 lift cam. No upgraded fuel system, no fresh air..... Full interior, heater, wipers, etc.
There is no doubt in my mind that plugging in a 505 as described, with an adjustment to the rear gear and converter would easily run 10.50's.
after all, it went 10.70's 20 years ago with an iron headed 9.7:1 448 at the same weight with worn out SS springs.

If it doesn't run the number, either the motor isn't making the power it "should", or the car isn't working properly.

Also keep in mind my thought process is based on the overall description of what Tex said he's looking for. The post isn't "which cam will make my car go the fastest", it's about wanting to run 10.50's in a car that will apparently be seeing a lot of street duty.
With that being (IMO) a large part of the criteria that needs to be considered, my inclination is to use the smallest, mildest cam possible to achieve the desired performance, and in doing so should have the best drivability and highest(or at least higher) reliability.

If we were strictly talking best 1/4 mile performance, or if the goal were closer to 10.00, I would look at it differently.

[/quote]
Andy , what about using
a 4500-4150 adaptor ? I have both M1 and Victor 4150 manifolds

Tex [/quote]

adapter vs intake manifold depends on hood height and size of budget. If the budget is big enough I prefer to change over to a 4500 intake since then I can run a merge type spacer under the Dominator. But lots of guys have good success running a 4150 intake with an adapter for a Dominator.

Andy, I'd be curious to know, if you just use the hughes cams for this purpose, how much smaller do you have to go in that program before you see the power numbers really take a hit?
For example, how much difference does it show for the 68/72, 64/68, 60/64, 56/60 cams?

Fast, thats kind of what I was saying about diminishing rerturns or trading off more bottom than you might gain up top. Still by the same token with a 505 too small a cam could turn it into an 'Oldsmobile' ( all torque and falls on its azz above 5200. 906 based ports are small even for 440" so to some extent you need some duration-compensation.

Thats why i was thinking a moderate rate 278@.050 solid with a fast but still decently streetable ( easy on springs) ramp would be a good fit. Ibwas thinking only go that big because Tex already has 4.10's so he's gonna need /use upper RPM powerband to get to the big end anyway, nonsense changing out his whole drivetrain. Tgat being said too small a ramp may hit that nose-over saturation point too early and force his to drop gear and possibly stall.

NSS guy, can you pm me the specs on that 272/276 Comp roller? I'm wanting to swap to a solid roller and use the super light MRL lifters on the 517, that cam seems close to where i want to be.

Wize, 278 @ .050 is just too much duration for that compression in that combo IMO. That's just not where I'd be.

If you err on the small side the motor will run great up to the limiting rpm of the duration.
If you get a little on the "too long" side, you give it up on the bottom and don't see the numbers get on the plus side until you're way beyond peak power.
This might work okay in certain race applications, but isn't what I feel would be a worthwhile trade off I this application.

Of course, the only way to really "know" would be to try both...... And I have a feeling that isn't in the cards....... So I'm leaning towards the conservative approach, knowing it would be good until it ran out of cam.

FWIW, 4.10s, a loose converter, 28" radials... the MPH to run 10.5s is 126++. That's probably 6800, maybe higher, RPM at the stripe.

CI works off of the engine specs plus the desired peak rpm. 268/272 is 6500 rpm, 265/270 is 6400 rpm, 263/268 is 6300 rpm, etc. Looks like CI shaves a couple of degrees for every 100 rpm.

Brad, thats kind of where I was thinking, my old 508 with a 252/258 Hydraulic roller ( probably comparable at .200 up and in overall drivability to Ron's (383Man's) 264/270 solid) and it was ( still is somewhere in A 72 Runner) a really stout street motor but it was all done by ~6200 with well ported 3.25 sq inch Stage V's and 2.19's. I only ran 3.54 gears and a 3800 stall 9 1/2" converter in it to compensate for the low RPM ceiling.

The 278 @.050 I was describing ( or trying to) would be cut on a wider 109-110 spread but would also have the .200 number that were more comparable to an agressive (but 4-6 degrees smaller @.050) ramp....just so it wouldn't hammer the valvetrain so hard for daily street driving and still rev high enough to use all the gear. So a soft 278 @.050 ( again cut on an .875 'Ford' lifter base) would pull above .200 like an aggressive 268-272 @ .050 but not beat the seats up so bad. Also in term of getting most/all the available head flow at .650 its easier to do that with a bigger seat to seat (but slower if you need it to live) ramp.

What was that 'McCandless special solid f/t that had a seemingly huge @ .050 and advertised numbers and .650 lift? It didnt act that big in even a 440 motor, was thinking more along the lines of getting the lift

The 6800+ RPM I posted is what I saw running the same gear, tire size, and MPH with a 4500-flash 9.5" converter.

I should have stated that all those Isky B/RB 590/616 solid lifter grinds are ground on a 104 LSA from Isky ,not on the ILC At the time I decided to buy and run one of them I was mainly looking at the lift and not the LSA for my M.W. 440 bracket motors. That grind pickup the 60 ft dramatically so I continued to use them on other motors, single plane 4 barrels and six paks for street and strip use As far as where to install the cam based off of lobe centers and intake lobe timing I've never had any Mopar V8 make more power on the dyno or run quicker and faster at the track by installing the cam straight up or retarding it, they all did better with 3 to 6 degrees advance on the cams Your results may vary

Wow , there is so much info you guys are putting on the table to assist .
Fast - you are right at this time I am not going full tilt .I do want to aim for that 10.50s , even a .59 would be great .Those ets will put me outside my current bracket ET and I will have to probably go to a restrictor plate or smaller carb . BUT I do want to get the best bang for bucks at this time , I don't want to strangle it too much undercamming it .
I did that on my 440 with the first set of stock Source heads , when I went to a solid ft from a 509 . Before fitting the CNC heads .
That is a big reason why I was looking at these bigger duration cams - hold the intake window open longer not higher per se to help with "restricted flow/port size" . I guess this is where Billy and I fit in together .
Brad , that trap rpm shouldn't be an issue , I could always go to a 29 1/2 or 30" tall radial .
Fast if it is OK with you I will try to call you mid week , maybe there is a slower ramp endurance type profile that will fit my plans , as a custom grind .
Oh yeah , daily driver is because I am a little daft . I do drive it every day to work and around on weekends - even interstate . As to drive quality and noise , my wife is not too keen on it , I love it .
thanks again for all the help and insights .

Tex

Tex [/quote]

I agree, if those were my only choices, I would run the smallest, the Howards cam.

But, what do you mean that all those cams were ground on a 104 Intake centerline.

Cams are grounds at A LSA and not at a Intake centerline. They are installed at a specific ICL

You stated differences of 110-108-106 LSA for the three separate cams. Im sure they weren't all ground on a 104 LSA Did , you mean a recommended installed 104 ICL

Also, I wouldnt use any of the cams you listed for what your doing. The hughes cam listed 6872 would be better IMO too.

[/quote]
Yes the Howards is 104ICL installed , all cams are installed 4 degrees advanced ICL over the lobe separation .

Tex

I guess I'll leave it with this......
Go to some of the on line dynamic compression calculators and see what those long duration cams and 10.5cr add up to...... And see if that number resonates in your mind as something that's going to make big power.

I'll apologise for bringing this back up, but I find this a very interesting topic. I'm sure I'm not the only one as there are a lot of people in a similar situation. Having some people post with real world experience and have guys who do this sort of thing as a living has been pretty interesting. But there's a couple of things I was curious about.

Would it not make sense to run a bit more duration, but keep the lobe centers kind of on the tight side to keep the dynamic compression up ?

Run as much lift as you think you can tolerate ? I would think this would be up to the individual though.

Is more exhaust duration needed on a street/strip car even if it has a good exhaust system ?

Just some things I'm thinking about for my own car as well. I've had two reccomendations from two different cam grinders, and they are considerably different. The one I received had a lot of duration and a wide lobe center. Not really getting the wide lobe center thing at all.

You would have to state what your gonna do with
the car and all the specs to the engine.. a wide
LSA will give a flatter torque curve but the narrow
one will give more bottom end torque... where do you
need it at.. if its a street/strip you might want the
wider LSA but advance the cam

Roadrunner451 ,
Yes getting the most input can help . After running dynamic comp numbers like Fast said , it appears i will need to aim for around 60deg ABDC or less to gain/retain good compression . With my numbers there was nearly 1 point of compression between cam choices .As to tight lobe seperation i understand this to make the motor power peakier , wider is flatter/broader . Still waiting for my short so on hold .

Tex

If you take the same solid lifter race lobes and grind two cams with different LSA only on a BB Mopar, and most other low rpm motors(peak HP below 7000 RPM)the one with the tighter LSA say 106 versus 110 or more the tighter LSA cam will out 60 ft the wider LSA and probally run as quick and as fast as the wider LSA on the other end Wider LSA on race cams looses bottom end and gains top end, same thing on tighter LSA, more bottom end and looses high HP and RPM in each gear I like my motors to pull hard from the hit up to the shift points, even if it means shifting before 6000 RPM to make the car run the quickest it will run that cam and top end

My combo is close enough to tex's that I'm not going to list it, and besides that would be bad form to steal his thread.

Anyway, I'm in the same boat as he is. I can't go much past 60deg abdc before the dynamic compression goes south. With that said, would it not make more sense to open the intake valve as early as possible, open it as fast and as far as is possible, and have it all done by 60 deg abdc or close to it ? This seems like a tight lobe center cam to me. Obviously we are operating under the constraint of a car that is driven on the street. Although for me it's a bit different, it's not my daily. I can push it a bit more.

I run a 585 260@ 50 installed at 104 fast ramp Engle flat tap solid in a std RB 446 with sidewinder heads, hooker fender exits with a M1 and 1090 BG it went 10.55 last weekend, foot brake glide nothing too radical

Is this cam ground on a 104 lobe seperation angle? If not what lobe seperation angles is it ground on and where do you have the intake lobe center installed at?

At what weight, gear & stall speed?

My old combo was 266 at .050" / .600" / 108 LSA + 4 SFT Comp grind from Porter Racing Heads, 452 RB w/ ported Stage VI heads (10.70 CR & 93-oct E10 fuel), BG 4150 carb, 2" headers & full exhaust, 4.10s & 4500-flash converter... ran 10.5s at 3750+ #s at near sea level tracks, and 2-3 tenths slower in summer heat and higher altitude tracks.

IMO, the OP doesn't need a "big" cam to run his posted #, just one that's a good fit for the rest of the combination. The Hughes 6872 on 108 LSA looks reasonable to me, too.

As always... just my opinion.

2970lb 4.56s 4000