Production BigBlock A body turbo headers. Any interest?

Ok guys, heres our chance to step out of the stone age and get on the same playing field as the Chevy and Ford crowd. Ive been talking with a fabrication company that does top-notch work. With enough interest they will produce Big Block A body turbo headers.

Pricing is to be determined as are the materials that will be used. This is up to us. The headers will be built in a 69 dart using shumacher conversion mounts, standard exhaust ports (no raised port heads), 440(rb) manual steering and manual brakes. Most likely they will be a 2inch primary tube but it may be switched to 1 7/8in depending on the demand and what you guys want.


AcedAutoWorx.com is the company and ill put a few pictures of their work up with more available if needed. Lets get some feedback here guys, there are already talks of small block A body turbo headers being produced if these take off.

What would you want to see in these headers? Primary tube size? Stainless? This is our one shot at someone finally putting us on the map and not letting the BrandX racers have all the production while were still cobbling together our own stuff or spending a billion dollars to have a one-off set of headers made.

My first thought is everyone uses a motor plate. Then there is a whole bunch of other thoughts getting scrambled because i just woke up

My thought is most guys that want to make big power have big heads, indy/b-1.

Very interested...Tax return time is almost here.

1-Question, is this for a single turbo, or twins?

And the Schumacher thing kills it for me right there, that guy is an idiot, and you can tell him I said that.

Most of us use a front engine plate anyways. You need the rigidity with all that weight because you don't want it flexing around. Potentially, a BBM and a turbo can make big Hp numbers, so stockish mounts that can melt...Probably not the best idea. Not to mention, many after market blocks, do not have stock motor mounts.

I called the supercharger store yesterday wondering what to do with a 400 block I can get my hands on...A single turbo deal would be a lot cheaper, if you can fab the headers, life would be really good.

For us, primary size would be 2" to 2-1/8", and material, would have to be somthing that can take the heat. Could be as simple as a header log, it does not have to be fancy. Hemi Fred was making huge Hp with a set of home fabbed header logs.

Heads for us will be either Indy 440-1's or EZ1 heads again....We like the EZ1 heads on the RB, and I think if we build a 400, we will opt for the 440-1's...

Depending on the combo, you may not need 2+" primaries. Smaller primaries will reduce spool time. People are making enough power to break blocks with exhaust manifolds...

The key is to make them fit as much stuff as you can. I have spent a TON of time fitting/modifying my small block kits to work on as many configurations as I can.

A body, b body, e body, with power steering, without, manual trans, 904/727, driver side and passenger side lower radiator houses, factory battery position, mini starter and old style, etc...

I think you'll have a hard time getting interest or the volume you need unless you can dedicate to taking the time to make the design work with a lot of combos. Limiting to Shumaker mounts and only a body could be a tough sell.

Yeah I understand on the whole swap mounts and an A body being a limited group. Just happens to be the car to test with if this happens since I approached him about turbo headers. If it happens and theres an interest, cool. If not well, you know how it goes.

If anyone in SoCal has a car with a motor plate and raised exhaust ports I can put you in touch with the shop since that seems to be the majority of what would be ideal. Wouldnt hurt to try and get the mopar guys on the map.

Good point, but anything that fits into an A-body should fit a B or an E without much fuss....Night and day for the amount of engine bay room between those.

That was my thinking on it, but im also blind to knowledge with B and E bodies since ive never owned either.

It will be just a set of headers without a cross over. At that point they could have a V-band installed and run a cross over or just do a turbo flange off of them, this is all stemming from about a 3paragraph sales pitch to a company I figured would ignore me. As for the motor plate, I dont have one in my car and my car would be used for the first set to be made, unless someone wants to offer up their car. I dont have the money for a set of raised port heads so were back to square one there.

Well sorry about that...I have both an E & an A body here, both with plates. The EZ1 heads are actually a low exhaust port design head for A-body's.....If you were a lot closer, as it stands, I have the engines out of both cars right now....

Belive it or not, that is not true. The a body actually has quite a bit more room at the front edge of the inner fender (wider) . I thought the same thing until I built the turbo kit/brackets to fit an a body and then tried them on the b-body!

Here is my A-body....engine bay....inner fender delete.



Was hoping to have it look like this....With a radiator though. I am learning a procharger will probably fit in there pretty easy.

If you don't feel comfortable with the room you have...., you always have the C-body! Just built these, took me two days to get this far.

I suggest anyone spending the time to build turbo headers or logs for any siamese port head, add a few extra bolts between the center ports. This solved a major annoyance for me. I had my flanges built out of 3/8 stainless, added additional material around all the ports in the drawings, and added the bolt holes. If the flanges were being made, I would strongly suggest doing this. Even if the end user doesn't want to thread the heads, there wouldn't be any interference, or issues not using the holes.

Agreed. When I made up my turbo headers I did that as well to keep a good seal.

I'd like a set for BB B-body for sure.

We haven't had any problems with leaking center ports, the flanges are 1/2" though, just RTV and no gsakets.

Yes, true/ straight flanges and no gaskets. These headers may not have leaked without the extra bolts, but after seeing the issues first hand several times, not only on mopars, but sbc stuff also, there was no good reason not to add the bolts.
I use a staging strategy that adds ALOT of exhaust heat. Maybe this is why my experiences are different. No reason I see not to do this. Your results may vary....

I' sure that on a maximum effort project a header is worthwhile.
However:
You're throwing away quite a bit of heat energy from the far greater radiant wall surface of the headers (as opposed to cast-iron manifolds).
The cross-over shown in the Dragula photo is IMHO too big (looks like 3"?), keeping the velocity up is always important. 1,000 HP LSX motors use the original truck manifolds with 2-1/2" outlet and 2-1/2" cross-over tube. Big primaries, big collectors and big cross-overs delay spooling a lot, without significant increase in maximum boost.
IMHO the single most important advantage for a header isn't RPM-tuned scavenging, or reduced back-pressure, it's keeping the individual pulses at the port separated for as long as possible, but a tri-Y does that just as well, and smaller, lighter, cheaper.