Path less traveled.....turbo Big Block.

Well, today after about a year of research I figured ill start on my path to a stock suspenion, stock steering turbo 440 in a dart. Ive already been told it wont work using stock manifolds. Any other turbo big block mopar guys on here?





Heres one for everybody that said a stock manifold wont clear the steering or spark plugs.

Collecting pieces for one now

Subscribed............

It's a long road

There's a few of us around. Welcome to the club.

Had mine running for 6 summers now. Has a 383 out of an old 66 Newport which was my daily driver in the 1990's. Got silly with the wastegate stop screws and pushed a head gasket out of it about a week ago on the last-of the-year cruise.It did ok at 18lbs. but 21 put it over the edge.I really thought it would blow through one of the cast pistons first.Just had bolts and whatever gasket felpro puts in the standard gasket set.Cometics and studs on the 470 going in.I swapped it over to twins last winter in preparation for the 470 and just drove it the way it was for the summer.I have edelbrock heads so I made stainless manifolds to clear the plugs. The straight plugs should clear a factory manifold. From what I've seen/read it's pretty hard to mess up the hot side as long as it is sealed up and doesn't crack.Don't worry about the restriction aspect. Dizuster runs mid 9's through truck manifolds with a 1 7/8" outlet.Ignore the nonbelievers/haters too.Grandma always said"Can't never did anything" Heres version 1.0 http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r461/FriedDonuts/P1000670.jpg And version 2.0 http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r461/FriedDonuts/CAM00911_zpsm4keefia.jpg Yes, I hooked up the hose to the driver side air filter eventually.

Good luck im on my second turbo build. Take your time and do it the way you want. Its easy to buy parts and change your mind so do your do diligence and make sure when your buying your parts its what you really need.
Give us a run down on the parts and pieces you have in mind to use and im sure we can help you in any way possible

Heres my 62 valiant with a 400 mock up block anything can be accomplished

Previous member here did it in an A-body...I would eventually like to, but the stock block is a tough deal.

Glad to see im not the only one. Its a cast piston low comp 440, .509 cam (gonna change it) thinking for now a single S480(1.32A/R turbine) on 10lbs, intercooled. 6000rpm max. It has a team G manifold, probably need to change it. 3500 billet TCS convertor. Did anyone open up the ring gap or will it be fine on 10lbs? I got another 440 apart I can build if this one gives up the ghost.

And ill be starting on my hotside after the holidays. Ill try to keep the thread updated even though progress will be slow.

Can someone post a list of parts needed to do this...I have a fresh 400 I thought about doing a turbo on 1 day...I have some access to a few Truck turbos or even a few bigger turbos ..

It really depends on the car, single turbo or twins. Id reccomend a big fuel system, a return line and a boost referenced fuel regulator. Carb needs to be setup for blow thru, theres online tech on how to do so but im sending mine to Kevin at CSU when im ready. Blow off valve, waste gate, can go intercooled but not everyone does. Theres literally a million ways to do it and im just starting to get my feet wet. Stroll over to theturboforums.com also. Tons of knowledge there also.

I was planning on a good MLS head gasket and studs when I put my aluminum heads on it. Pistons are 46 bucks a pop so if I kill a few its not a big deal for me. Just worried about the ring gap. Im surprised yours lived at 18lbs. I may have to lean on mine when its done to scare some people

I built one about 8 years ago. Single turbo on a 440 in a 69 dart. I used EFI and Snow injection since I didn't have room for and inter cooler. Fun car. I sold the car but kept the engine and turbo setup. I run a Hemi now with nitrous in my Demon.

It has the Mopar Performance "9.0:1" cast replacement pistons. They barely made 8.0:1 with the edelbrock heads. I don't think I even checked the ring gap when it went together way back when.It was a quickie/weekend build. Drove it about 120K miles after that in the Newport before the boosted abuse began.Could probably put a new gasket in it and go, but I have almost all the parts to assemble the 470. Many parts will be transfered from the 383.I think at 15-18lbs. shifting at 5500 r.p.m. it would have lived indefinitely.I took out a Crane204/216 .427"/.454" cam and put in a Crower 271 H.D.P. and I think it lost a little power and gained some lope at idle. I would suggest a lope free cam unless a proper custon cam is going to be used.

My little 318 survived numerous dyno pulls at 24 lbs of boost with factory cast pistons drinking 110 octane. It was only after an accidental 24 lbs on 87 octane on the street did it blow 3 pistons. $149 to my door later I had a full set of replacement pistons, pins, and rings. Dave

What was this installed in?

Got any pictures of the setup?

Thats a ton of boost haha. What kind of mumbers did it make?

Why would you take the time to reserach this like you did and spend the money needed to build a cheap cast piston short block when you know that it could fail at speed and end up hurting you or the car or both I wouldn't do that Build a decent short block and use it to get educated on this technology and proceed on

Have run one for 10 years now, the current version is still untested. Have built another one too, and a third, budget build with stock 383 base engine with a single turbo is on its way.

The short block is a low-mileage (35k) from a 74 New Yorker that I did yard work in trade for the motor and transmission years ago. There was no "building" done so to speak, just a cam and deep oil pan from when I was going to go a different direction with the motor. If it blows up, it blows up(got another motor on stand by anyways). Im not trying to make 1000+hp to the ground, just something fun on a soft tune up that is different from 90% of the mopars you see and can still make my 30mile commute to work and live on the fantastic 91pump out here.

That actually looks pretty wild. I dig it.

I don't know who told you the stock manifold won't work, but for a mild build they most definitely can.

As mentioned mine makes around 800-825hp on stock 1 7/8" outlet manifolds. For a mild build and low RPM they are a perfect fit for the job.

When it comes to the exhaust, it seems to me that exhaust manifold volume is more important than having tuned headers as the tuning effect is diminished due to the high pressure built up on the hot side, does that sound right? Seems having the proper volume (not to big or small) is the thing to shoot for

The mighty 318 was installed in a 81 1/2 4x4,Dodge. It would would win most uglytruck contests. I got the truck for free, the 318 brand new Napa rebuild cost me $150. The GT-45 turo was $249 delivered to my door. Well under $1000 in everything so the whole thing was EXPENDABLE if something went BOOM.
The motor made 160hp cheated up on my dyno with the stock, manifolds,exhaust pipe, and factory 2bbl. With a 800 thermoquad and 24 lbs of boost it made 536hp&586ftlbs@4800. The hp&torque were still climbing at 4800. I did O-ring the block and install copper headgaskets. Dave

I was told they wouldnt work due to blocking spark plugs and clearing the steering box. But im really happy you posted on this, my brother is impatiently waiting to see your turbo kits come together. (I think it was you doing them at least. Always told him "theres an ugly B body that runs like a damn Animal with boost through a 360" now after watching what videos he could find he wants to go the boosted route also lol. Killer car man. What size piping would you reccomend for the hotside? I was think 2.5" but not too sure.

Thats some huge numbers out of a 318. Might convince my friend to keep his in favor of a bigblock now. Gonna try and get every mopar a turbo now.

During a road test the exhaust pipe came off at WOT at about 65mph in 4th gear. I had set the boost down to 12lbs to run on 87 octane. Without the restrictive exhaust it instantly hit 24lbs. It slammed me back in the seat and a second later the engine revved way up, I thought it had smoked the tires. Then I smelled the clutch, it ran though the clutch at 70+mph. The result of the overboost and detonation was 3 cracked pistons. $149 to my door for a full set of pistons, pins, and rings and it was running again. Hey, I got 5 spare pistons to play with now. Dave

That's kind of how I looked at that old 383,expendable.That's the best kind to learn on.

while that manifold might fit in there, are you factoring the 3-4" of space you need to get a u bend in there to get to free space to route over to the turbo? I had no such room in my Fury when I looked at that and I tried logs, HP's, 62-64 logs, and even 1958 logs.
I used the RV manifolds upside down

https://picasaweb.google.com/117601696089323739884/TurboFury?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Its gonna sweep down and go to the passenger side. Running a single. Ill make something work. I got a few good fabricators and some crazy ones willing to help

I'm going to offer some advise about part selections on motor that will be driven hard at WOT at speeds in excess of the posted local speed limit, DON"T CUT CORNERS, EVER I've been very lucky in my racing career when it comes to breaking parts at WOT, I haven't bent any sheet metal, yet I've been sideways at or above 85 MPH in 3rd gear in someone elses gear grease from a broken stick shift tranny in front of me, I've broken rods and lock the motor up at 115 MPH and had the car start to go sideways and got lucky by getting it into nuetral before it flipped on its lid I've also seen freinds hurt and destroy there race cars because of broken parts, if you race long enough you will break parts, the cheaper ones break easier It's your choice

I know this is way on the other end of the spectrum, but here are a couple pics of my buddies build from 5-6 years ago. He has since stepped up to a twin turbo Hemi. This particular wedge combo hit the 7's in a street-legal '69 Charger.

Oh, man!! I want too go for a ride! You need a you-tube vid.... Post some pic's of the rest of the car.

I fully intend to do a turbo 440 on the cheap but haven't finished with some other projects yet. The dyno is the perfect tool for the R&D required to get things close.Here's the 318, still running the factory air too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/q...p;1448541133111

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=On8-AHZw3-Q
Here's the first one from way back.10 lbs. front two barrells only.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVlmtgYb72U
Another from the 15 lb. days.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8wb7JAM5wc
Here's the whole bucket of bolts. Requirements were flat hood and keep the factory A/C.

The sales man assured that ET Streets would be a great fix for no traction. Sure, right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPzIop6LpwA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPN5hMBh3bo

Very clean, keep us in the loop when the 470 gets slid in. And your self described love or hate green paint really gives the car a sleepy look that I like. The rake is also killer don't change it. If I were too change anything? I think I would add the GTX flip open gas cap and on a set of Crager S/S mags too complete the retro day two look.

Very cool car! But you next vid should be a side shot so we can see some of those rubber molecule's wafting out of the wheel wells into the breeze..

https://youtu.be/0htNhlLzPQs

I like this one better...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz0vuCmzFEs

Not sure how far you are on your Project, but please check out theturboforums.com as they have a Mopar dedicated section. I was into mine around $4,000 including A2W intercooler, fuel system, and snow performance stage III meth injection kit, but purchased nearly everything used or on sale.

Stock exhaust manifolds won't work on the BBM like they will on the SBM applications, hot side will more-than-likely require a custom setup (add in another $1,000+). I built a rear mount setup which cost $350 in total for my hot/cold side tubing, fitment, 5" stainless downpipe, and labor at local welding shop.

If I wasn't running a B-Body, I would definitely have a SBM and run factory exhaust manifolds for a front mount setup.

I run a 440RB, Mopar .525 solid lifter camshaft w/ 112 LSA (budget turbo grind), Eddy heads, 10:1 CR, Victor 440, CSU 750 BT carb, and BW T6 S475 w/ 1.10AR.

Attempting to build a street car (with the RB series) and a turbo is a bit difficult to accomplish in the limited room underhood, unless you go twin T4's (which isn't really worth it as the blocks are supposedly only good for 700 tops N/A, 800ish FI). S475 will make 700+HP all day with limited amounts of boost on a healthy big block. Just remember, larger turbos do not require radical PSI to make power. Corky Bells 'Maximum Boost' is the bible of turbocharging literature, and honestly a must read if you are serious about going forward.

what are you guys doing for fuel / air? tuned carb or going injection?

EFI for me.

I think misunderstanding is where this always goes wrong. People ask if they can "flip" stock manifolds. If "flip" in your mind is up side down, than no. They wont fit. Spark plug holes will be covered. If you mean left on right/ right on left... well- depending on what they came off of, and what they are going into, they may work. There were alot of different configurations of factory manifolds for big blocks. My first use of turbos was with mid 70s New Yorker manifolds. I cut and welded them with ni-rod into the configuration I wanted. Pretty ghetto, but they worked. Plenty of guys would use stock manifolds in stock locations, make a pipe from one to the other, and weld a flange directly onto one of the manifolds for the turbo.In the 70s/80s Turbosonic made a 440 manifold with the flange cast into it that made its way onto many Winnebago motor homes.
If you don't have a modified chassis car, stock stuff will take you far beyond what the car will hold. Spend money on your fuel and ignition. EFI covers both bases at once. Carb can be expensive and will never get you to where you can be with efi. Price both and you will find efi is not much more if you aren't afraid to do a little hunting.