65 Coronet Hemi Engine Location?

I'm fitting a plastic replicate 426 hemi in my 65 Coronet. But something isn't right.
a) The engine is offset 2" toward the passenger side. Isn't it supposed to be 1-1/2" ???
b) The engine sits too high. The crack CL to k-member is 5-3/4". Isn't it supposed to be 5-1/4" ???
c) There is only a 1/4" gap between the block (with heads)and passenger shock tower. Seems to small.

I'm using reproduction mounts and isolators. The k-member was modified by Mega Parts.
I suspect my Plastic replicate block may not be correct.

1) What is the distance between the machined mounting pads an a steel block???????
2) Is the crank centerline half that distance?
3) What is the width of a steel block, with heads??
Don

They are very close on the passenger side. in my 68 Charger you have to unbolt and push down the top of the shock, to get the valve cover off. When changing valve springs there's no room to tap exhaust retainers to get them loose.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...emi.html#UNREAD

We did one in a 65 Coronet a number of years ago. Used a motor plate, centerline in the stock location as far as side to side. Moved it back as far as possible without modifying the firewall. Maybe lowered it a touch. We had to "slice" the right shock tower to clear the valve cover. Did a nice straight cut, welded a flat piece back in and cleaned it up. He wanted it period correct, but I couldn't bring myself to do the BFH mod. IIRC, we moved it about as far as we could without getting too close to the shock and we still had to loosen the top of the shock to get the VC off. Wish I had pictures.

I had a plastic long block to use, but didn't trust it. Was flimsy. Clearances were so close I used a real block to avoid any "oh $%!^s" when it was put together.

I tried the plastic block also , gave up an used a real block, a must , especially where the headers are concerned.

We moved the steering box on the car to get as much room for headers as possible. Was still close. I don't think the engine can be tweaked to the left without converting to a rack & pinion and/or aftermaket K frame. Then it all becomes fairly easy. But like I said, the owner wanted it period correct.

use the plastic for mock ups, then do final fit with your real block and heads. the plastic is close.