Steering Centerlink Mods

72 Demon, 360 with TTI 1 7/8 W2 race headers and Milodon drag pan

Engine set to "stock" position per TTI instructions. Steering passes through the oil pan. Centerlink hits on the bottom through part of it's travel. Also looks like the passenger side tie rod nut will hit header as well. This is going to need some modifications to be able to steer without smashing all the parts.

Any tips on a successful modification of the centerlink? Have big MIG welder. Not the biggest fan of steering mods, but something has to be done or this won't steer at all.

(1) call TTI (2) I'd mod the pan before I touched the center link

You need a torch, not a hand held propane one. On the headers, I had to heat the area that the nut hit and squeezed the header tube some to get clearance, used a very large pair of channel locks. If there ceramic coated , it will burn it off as you need it red hot to smoothly bend the tube in. On the linkage, I have used a torch to bend linkage before with no problem, front end alignment is required after adjustment. Thats just my experience, others my differ.

I have an oxy/acetylene torch. I'll need the centerlink to not hit the pan before I can determine how much header mod will be necessary.

I will see if I can push the center part of the pan down as well. Trying to get out for the last race this year and I can always replace the centerlink later. Front end is all brand new, alignment will be required anyway.

Thanks for the ideas!

DON'T bend or smash your headers for clearance. Never understand why guys buy high dollar headers and then smash them up to make them fit the car. They obviously fit on the car they were patterned on, so make your CAR fit the headers. Slightly move the motor, alter the draglink, the mounts, the oil pan, whatever.........just don't smash the headers.

Does the motor ned to be raised or lowered to make the clearances you want? If raised can you put a shim somewhere to get that done

A dent in the header means that cylinder will run hotter, not to mention that the intrusion may cause an extra reflection.
Round is the smallest OD for the largest internal area. Any change in shape reduces the X-section.

Way too much work, but sometimes it helps: cut the offending section out, and replace with a larger OD flattened.
E.g.: a 2" OD 18 gauge (1.902" ID) primary is 2.84 sq. inches. A 2-1/2" tube flattened to an 2" X 3" ellipse off center may give you as much as 1/2" of extra room at the interference.

Motor is in about the only place it can be. Any higher or lower and the headers will hit the torsion bars. Is exactly where TTI wants it.

I heated up the centerlink and took some of the bend out of it. Getting closer to be able to fit on the pitman and drag link without hitting the pan. Slight angle adjustment tomorrow should get it on those.

There is absolutely no way the passenger tie rod would go into the centerlink without smashing the header in a bad way. I ended up cutting off the end of the centerlink and will have to re-weld it toward the front. At least 3/4" off. I might have to cut the end of the tie rod stud off also. Trying not to dent the tubes, some already are pressed from the factory around the torsion bars. TTI says they will fit with all stock components and the motor in the stock location. I call BS, it would never fit. This is the 2nd set I know of with fitment issues.

Wait until you put a set of TTI,s in a A-body with a big block.

Is this center link like a B body in that it can go on two ways? Most B bodies I see have it on backward. It will change clearances.

You can flip the centerlink, that offers no advantage at all. It would put the tie rod right through the center of one header tube. It's together with nothing that appears to be rubbing. A few hours of quality time with the welder and grinder got it where it needed to be. Clearance probably no more than .060" in most places.