407" low deck build

What experience/results has anyone had doing a .030 bore stock stroke low deck? I'm starting to think I might want to try one. I want a street strip turbo combo for an Abody. I was on a kick of a 451" but now I'm second guessing. I would think that an aftermarket stock stroke crank with BME rods and thick crowned Pistons would be pretty durable. I think with moderate boost on this size engine I would be right at what the block could take with bulletproof guts in the bottom.
I've been thinking of this a lot and a recent comment by Jerry Kathe in a different thread goes along the line of the same thinking. Lightweight quality components, lower piston speed, and better bore integrity especially at the bottom of the cylinder?
Not a lot of stroke, not turning a ton of rpm, and good geometry? I have a 230 block and a 630 block to work with, that's why I ask.

I would still put a girdle on it....Might do one this winter, sans the turbo though. If I go this route, mine will be a 543 NA for about 750hp pump gas.

If you're going with efi, I say go for it. If you're going carb, get a more mistake proof block.

I would be running either a Scorpion or Wilson TB. I think this combo would make plenty of power, launch nice and wouldn't need a ton of gear.

Does anyone make an aftermarket stock stroke crank for a B engine? I looked around quick at the manufacturers I know and couldn't find one. I suppose a custom is an option.

Also I was bored, has anyone ever built an offset ground 383 crank at 3.51, 6.8" chevy rods and a 1.42" compression height mopar piston. I think my math works out ((3.51/2)+6.8+1.42) = 9.975 with a 9.98 deck height. It's not that many extra inches but it seems like the reciprocating weight could be kept fairly low.

My brainstorming has had me looking too. Not much out there but high dollar stuff. I like your idea. I've got a free 383 crank available. It should be as durable as a 440 factory forged crank I would think. That math works too. I think a combo like that, with aluminum rods, and a smart tune on E85 would have some pretty good longevity.

Both of the 400 blocks main webs are way better than the RB blocks, why not run the 3.75 or longer stroke with a longer rod The turbo in good tune and even as high as 12 Lbs. of boost intercooled on E85 should live forever I've made 775 HP on pump gas 91 octane swill with a 630 block 518 C.I. motor using the old Mopar brand ductile iron main caps and ARP main studs, beat the crap out of that motor for a lot of laps amd street miles with no problems It would revved to the moon(I"ve tested it to above 7800 RPM in 2nd gear several times) and not quit pulling On your deal with boost it should make well over 800 HP and still be real reliable

I built one about 10 years ago that I am running in a 71 Challenger R/T street car and it is still running good. 400 block .030 over, Ross pistons, Manley 6.965 H-Beams, stock 383 crank, 1/2" pickup, edelbrock rpm heads, cut .060 for 71cc, block "0" decked for 10.8 CR, Comp Street XR74R Solid Roller, 750DP Performer RPM Intake, TTI 1 7/8 headers, 3" out the back through Ultraflows. It is a 4 speed car, 3.55. I wish I knew how much power it was making but I never dyno'd it. I know it is fun on the street. Those Manley rods in that size are no longer available. I got the idea to build this combo from Andy F.

Sorry but where's the mistake in a 230 block for the OP's application?

The normal challenge with the 383/400 in an NA build is getting enough compression. With a turbo build, you may want lower compression anyhow, so not an issue necessarily.

Still, I would think there is benefit and little downside to using 3.75" 440 stroke with an aftermarket crank. Piston compression height is OK, rod ratio is OK. There is cost in the new crank... but also in re-machining and checking out a stock 383 steel crank.

Whichever way you go, hope you keep us posted.

If you do I'd just go with a 440 rod and a KB Hypereutectic piston or get a custom ~1.53" CH slug made, if your gonna rev it you might as well put a long rod in it.

I think an offset grind to 3.51" with a 2.200 BBC journal and a 6.535 to 6.800 rod with a .990 pin , that would be a killer combo with a lightweight bob. Camming will be tricky probably go with a fairly short duration but put it in fairly late ICL

This ^ is what I'm after as well

Other options are to find a 440 aftermarket crank that needs a regrind. It should be cheap enough needing grinding. Then you can offset grind it down to 3.58 or all the way to 3.50 if you were to go with a 2.1 SBC rod bearing. The nice thing about going with a 440 after market used crank is you can probably get a full history on its' life, and you can build an extremely light rotating assembly by going to the chevy bearing sizes and keeping the piston pin at minimum needed hieght. I would start by finding out what the piston manufacturers want as far as minimum compression height and work from there on rod choices.

Don't put hypers in a blower/ turbo engine.

A lot of good advice here. I will probably run Diamond Pistons. We've used them before and were very happy with them.

Ya sorry of the Hypers, forgot you were boosting. All else is solid though...just sayin :-)