Tunnel Ram and fuel slosh issues ?

We've been chasing a weird bog that seems to effect the car 60ft or so out. Motor goes real lean and dies / noses over then comes back. Anybody use these?
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/fuel-bowl-parts/nitrophyl-float-wedge-primary.html
Seems to make sense for the above issue.
I think we have / had other fueling issues as well.

What you need to do is get yourself some 5/16 black rubber fuel line and cut a notch in the center and attach each end of the fuel line to both vents on the carbs. Lke an arch or get yourself 4msd distributor boots 90 degree and put one on each vent and then run a small piece of that fuel line to each en of te distributor boot

Are the carbs mounted front to back.. or sideways.. I
had mine on sideways and had a problem of that nature...
being that the jets are in a different place I made up
some 90* jet extensions that fixed it... I kept them right
on the bottom of the bowl to clear the float.... I did all
the jets that way... not just the rears

If your car is doing wheelies, the fuel is dumping out of the vents and sloshing into the carbs flooding them out. It doesn't take much fuel to cause this.
Fuel level in bowls should be right under the sit glass and psi no more than 6 with a good fuel pump.

Mike, what did you use to make the 90's?

I use them. Mine are the one's from Braswell,but there the same design. If your carbs are turned sideways you should have those,especially if the car wheelies off the line.

You need the correct floats. They are oriented right and left as well as the carbs need to be mounted front and rear and the orientation does matter. Pretty typical for a hard leaving or wheel standing car with sideways mounted carbs. Surprised they were not in there if they were ordered for a tunnel ram deal. FWIW those floats are made by Braswell for Quickfuel as are many of their parts.

From my experience with the sideways carbs I bought the floats from Pro Systems but a lot of carb manufactures have them. The ones you show should have a left and a right taper towards the back of the car. Once you have the correct floats and have them set correctly I'll bet a million dollars it needs bigger shot of fuel at the hit. Small tube nozzle type squirters (31's) with a bigger cam (Squirter cam).
Are you leaving wit your foot on the floor or partly down then full throttle?

I am all ears on this one. What other tricks can we use on the tunnel ram carbs?

Hi, I've ordered the wedge floats from quick fuel, we have already "upped" the squirters to .063, these are 1150 dominator carbs, yellow cam only 2 pos'n.
We've also upgraded the fuel lines to one size bigger everywhere.
We're not back out with the car until the end of August. Footbrake, Launch around 1800rpm.

Hey
How come I do not have a picture like that?????
Looks nice Tig....Todd

When this doesn't solve your problem, refer to my post. Been there done that. Your carbs ,if they are the sideways mounted carbs from the factory already have the correct floats in them already.

Sammy, the car goes lean on the AFR's. If the fuel was dumping into the carb from the vents I would expect it to go rich. However sometimes stuff doesn't work out how you think so we also done the vent tube thing, still had the issue.
I'm thinking we've had a number of fuel related problems, those being at least: fuel line to small, more squirter needed and this "fuel in bowl control" issue.
Todd, I have a bunch of pretty pictures I can send, here's another one.

Tig that looks awesome. I appreciate the pictures because they help me plan my t-ram build.

What fuel system are you guys using? Also what size lines have you plumbed it with?

I doubt that the fuel line is too small if its falling on its face
right off the line and being that you foot brake at 3800 rpm..
also if those are 1100 carbs I doubt the needle and seats are too
small(most likely .130)

my car did the same thing. ran fine with a single 4 on top of the tunnel ram. When I put the other top on with the second dominator it fell on its face. tried messing with everything. it came down to I was coming out too low of rpm to keep a good signal on the carbs so it would go lean. loosened the converter and bingo

Try using .35 - .41 squirters (tube type) and a pink cam on the number two hole.
This will give you a longer squirt ie more time of adding fuel.
Once again make sure the floats are set correctly.

It isn't falling on it's face off the hit, it's usually 40 - 60 ft out. We log the AFRs (left and right), you can see the lean spikes, sometime right where the converter stalls, sometimes .3 -.4 seconds later.
Also we have seen a double lean spike, like the fuel moved away from the jets, then returned when it stumbled and then did it again.
Were running a Magnafuel 500 fuel pump and now have -8's to the carb, -12 main feed to reg, and 2 -10's from the the tank to the pump.
Changing the lines from -6 to -8 on the carbs helped we came down 2 sizes on the main jets as it was too rich after that.
AFR's also go richer towards the end of each gear change, typical 3rd gear might start at 13.1 and end at 11.9.
I didn't know the 4150 pump cams would work with a 4500 carb, or do they have to be modified.
Thanks for the answers so far

When you put the floats in, wedge to the rear, turn the bowl upside down, measure the distance between the top of the float and inside top of the bowl. Set the float level to .425. Make sure fuel pressure isn't over 6 psi.

Done, done and done, just need to get down the track now

Another q, Does anyone run jet extensions with these floats? All the floats are notched so do I need 'em?

I don't

Still got issues, also my AFR's change with each gearchange. Usually in the 10's in first 11's in second and 12's in 3rd. Steps coincide with gearchanges.

You have tunnel ram floats with jet extension notches?

Hi Jerry. Yes we got these and tried them. Still all sorts of weird issues with fueling. I'm guessing we need to seal the carbs to the scoop and run a decent air filter before we can get to grips with it.
Our season is finished now lots of work to be done on the car before it's next out, modifying they scoop is one of them.

Hello Tig. You shouldn't have floats with notches, you need floats that are shaped like a wedge on one end, these will be orientated left and right with the wedge facing reward. I have never seen tunnel ram floats with jet extension notches and wedge features on the same float. Jet extensions are not necessary (or desired) with sideways mounted carburetors. I would go back and visit that before trying anything else.

Interesting Topic. I have been running a tunnel ram for the past 6 years and experienced a similar set of circumstances a few years back. I had been running with zero problems and then changed cylinder heads to E-Victors. The change moved the carbs very close to the six pack scoop. The Car would launch hard but then a strong bog/failure about 40 feet out. What I found was a simple fix, I removed the hood, exposing the carbs with no restriction above them, the problem resolved immediately. Since then I have been running a flat hood with a halibrand style scoop. No more problems.

I have standard 4150 bowl floats with no jet extensions. Floats are set a little high but nothing radical. No way to say this is the problem you are experiencing, but it is a simple experiment to determine.

As a side note, I came across the idea of removing the hood after talking with very well known local pro-stock carb builder. His rule of thumb was simple, you should be able to place your fist between the carb and the top of the scoop, if not, your experiences may vary.

I also had the same problem on my Dart with a hemi scoop took it to the track with a dominator on top of 2" adaptor and victor intake, did 3 runs, first was 121, so i jetted up a couple, the next 2 were 122, on the same day i swapped my old 950 with 2" supersucker back on and it picked up 5 mph the next 2 runs. Ran the car without the hood next time out with the dominator back on and it ran it's best ever speed.
Mick

The floats have wedges and are fitted so the wedge is to the rear, they also have notches for jet extensions. They are not the same as the ones linked to at the start of the thread. http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/fuel-bowl-parts/nitrophyl-float-wedge-primary.html
Pretty sure my hood is causing a problem as we can only just get a 2 1/2 inch tall filter in there. We have filter tops too which are real close to the hood.

If it's lift off do a run without the hood and the filters, if it cures the problem then get some less restrictive filters and fit a different scoop.
Mick

My Dart does the same thing. Leaves hard then falls. I'm going to try some of the above mentioned fixes. I tried the hose between the bowl vents and it helped some, but didn't get rid of all of the bog.

One major problem is carb to scoop clearance. I only have about 2" above the top of the carbs and run two short about 4" round air cleaners.