hooking a new Challenger

I'm trying to gain some sixty foot and consistency in my SRT. It's stock suspension with BFG street tires. I drive around the water, back up about two feet from the water, then do a hard dry hop to clean the tires and build a little heat. Then stage, and have to lightly roll into the throttle until it hooks in 2nd gear, then I can finally go WFO.
Anyone have any luck getting these things to launch.
I have some mid 7's in the 1/8 if I can find some hook. Went 7.92 rolling into the throttle.
I'd like to stick with the 20" rim. Tire is 275-40-20 BFG street t/a

I've got the 245 45/20 not to radial on the back of my 2012 super bee then work great the hardest part is to get 4400 lbs moving been a best so far of 12.57 I've seen others post they have been high 11s with 18 inch tires

Traction control on or off?

Traction control on. Turning it off is worse.
I was hoping someone had a tire recommendation, or ideas for things to address, I might lower it an inch or so. Just have no clue about the independent rearend stuff.


What's the 12.57 in the 1/8 mile. I been 7.78 but the track was flypaper.

Mine had 295/40/20's on it. It was a disaster the one time I took it to RT 66. It would go sideways shifting in to 3rd gear and wheelhop like crazy with any hint of spin. I know it can be done, I've seen some pretty fast Challengers, but I was highly unsuccessful.

Stock, or no "major" build:

Manual cars: go with Hoosier slicks on 17" rims.
Auto: drag radials, MT or M&H (275r50), on 17" rims.

Nitto makes 555R in 20", but not a lot of luck with those without a big burnout, even still the 17" stuff is better and also increases effective gear ratio due to the shorter tires.

I've managed to get my 6 speed R/T to pull off mid-1.6's launching around 4200-4500 RPM.

I totally agree with StricNine.

keep the air pressure around 30psi on those short sidewall tires

I'm a little over 500hp to the wheels. But 4300# is hard to launch .
With the tire I have, I'm at 38 psi for best results.
They should have fitted these pigs with some huge steam rollers.

you need more sidewall as that cushions the force to the track and provides some give. if your trying to stick 20s, then go real wide, drop the air pressure some and walk it off the line.

22-23 psi, quick burnout with smoke, stage and roll into the throttle quick. Been 1.91 60ft in a Charger SRT on the (worst for drag racing) stock 245 F1's

Track glue/prep matters big time - go after an event or when they have glue down.

Try traction 1/2 off (hitting the button) and full off (holding down the button until it chimes) - Nitto NT55R's are a good everyday drag radial that even works in the rain.

Also, do not hit rev limit when doing burnout, it'll retard the timing and ruin your run by knocking down power - stay under 4500

Would second gear be better at launch? Got a 2015 - 8 speed and there is a funny exhaust note after each shift, is that the retard you talk about? I'm dying to take to track but don't want to embarrass the car with me not knowing what to do.

The fart sound between shifts is called torque management (timing retard to lessen the blow between shifts) With it removed via tune on my 5-spd it'll pick up 3/10. Your 8spd is good for 516lb/ft - so I'd dump that (5-spd not even good for the 470lb ft of the 6.4L!)

Any particular tune you recommend. I guess you mean a box?