How much power can a 400 block non 230 casting hold up

I found a 470 stroker and it's a stock caps with studs motor and I was wondering how much do you guys spray on top of the 400 blocks that isn't a 230 casting..

I don't think there's any magic number. Some break with 700 HP, and some make it for a while at 850HP. Since there aren't any steel blocks available, I guess you're just gonna have to saddle up and find out. Some more might pipe up with information, but no one will guarantee one.

Install 6 units... And then back it off 2.....
Sorry I just could not help myself....

76 440 block, stock caps, ARP studs, cheap H beam steel rods, icon pistons. 8.95-145 @ 3200lbs, Bad gear choice (4.56) converter that eats a lot of power, and a glide.

Between the two plate systems, most people would call it a 400 hit. It lives because it has good fuel, and no timing! You detonate it, you're gonna drive over the crank.

nice billy..what brand nos are you running?or you custom build yours

My brothers and I are fond of NOS big shot plates, double-cross and the like. We've had 3 or 4 stock block combos in the high 8's, low 9's and never knocked the webbing out of a block, broke other stuff, but not that. A few have had aluminum main caps, and a few have had aluminum rods.

In 1997, we went 9.19 in a 3000lb AMX, with a single stage cheater plate. It had an aluminum rod 451 (400 block, 440 crank in it. After 17 years of service, including many street miles, one of the 6.53 BME rods finally let go last summer.

Well I have been out of racing for a while..back when I was messing around O Malley was the thing..Quick question does a fogger hit as hard as a plate or it's no difference.

That hitting hard stuff went out the window in the 90's. A plate may have reacted better back then because of bad tune ups. IMO no reason to have a plate unless class rules or just spraying 100hp or something very small.

To the OP: You seem to be making an assumption that all 230 blocks are the thick web "cold weather" blocks. They aren't. I believe most 230 blocks are not "cold weather" blocks. It seems that these special blocks were only cast during a very short run.

There's nothing wrong with a regular 230 block, it's just not really special as far as 400 blocks go.

R.

I've never used NOS but I have built several pump gas N/A 400 stroker motors that made in excess of 700+ HP for street and strip use, I did use Ductiile iron main caps and ARP main studs in both them with a 4.250 and 4.300 stroke cranks. Both of those motors had the dog snout beat out of them for as lot of years and passes at the track I am racing one of the early 230 thick main web blocks now on E85, it has the Mopar ductile iron main caps on it also with a 4.25 stroke crank, I haven't torn it down yet as it has lees than 200 runs on it so far so no feedback on it yet the big thing about all the 400 block is the cylinder wall thickness, just like all of the B and RB motors, always sonic test them before using them I wouldn't use any stock block that I hope to make north of 900 HP unless it was a Gen 2 426 street Hemi block that was a unhurt virgin

Where are the B1 guys, they make a 1000 hp with stock blocks, or use to.

This can't be the only guys left running stock blocks .

I have made over 1000hp to the tires with a 400 block for about 10-12 passes everytime. It would split cylinder walls. I think if you sleeved all 8 with moly sleeves and stayed like 4.32 or 4.35 bore it would last a good while in the 1k range but you would have a fortune in it might as well go to alum.