Fuel Pressure Regulator

What do you all recommend for a dead-head fuel pressure regulator? It must have -10 in and two -8 out..

I've used everything from holley, magnafuel, Professional Products and even an unnamed one.. They all seem to want to creep up past the desired pressure..

I'm using the 140 Mallory with a magnafuel reg. I set the pressure to 6 3/4. It never creeps. Are u using a isolator to the gauge?

No isolator... but I do have two gauges and gas was leaking out the vents with the motor running yesterday.. So its not a gauge problem..

Also, I'm running the Barry Grant 400 pump with a return to the cell for continuous flow.. but the line going to the carb is a non-return and there is no adjustments on the pump..

RobbMC makes a nice regulator that can be converted from a dead head style to a return style. Might look into it. That is what I have but no time on it so far. Seems to be well made. I believe it will handle the sizes you are talking about

I have NEVER had an issue with a Magnafuel regulator, never a leak or a creep. If you are really wanting to spend money Weldon makes a VERY nice piece. Do not understand why you have all the issues with regulators, perhaps it is time to look at the other pieces. I have honestly never had any issues like yours. Have seen some of the cheaper ones creep around but nothing like this

Have also never run a return style system, nor see the need for it on a racecar. On a streetcar but not a racecar.

FWIW and my .02 there is NO need to be starting a racecar very often and running it unless it is at the track going to be raced or to possibly check functionality of a major system after a repair, ie converter swap or trans rebuild. Doing this will greatly shorten said motors lifetime. Idling or running them with no load is only going to be detrimental to the motor in the long term.

Don..

I run this guy..

Fixed my problems with the cheap regulators..

Also run a bypass from the pump to the tank like Al says..

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/carbureted/pro-stock-2-port-regulator/


Chris..

While I disagree with Al and I know he has some nice equipment
I find that the return system keeps cooler fuel helps at the carb
and I have no idea what he means about the running them part... 90%
of the guys on here are bracket racers and warm their cars up all
the time... then drive them up to the lanes... maybe he pulls his up

And that when your car should be started, when you plan to race it. Not just because you wanna hear it run. Especially when they are new. For gods sake if you are going to fire one up make sure you get them up to temp if not HOT to make sure you burn off any moisture, and not accumulate any. It is not going to help the thing live at all.

IMO a dragrace car is not running long enough to make a difference. A properly designed dead head system with a pump bypass is all that is needed IMO. Just because you see it in a lab test under controlled environment in a street car application does not mean it equates to much in a racecar environment. Now if this is a car that spends a lot of time idling around and you are warming the fuel that much from a dead head system in a racecar for it to make a NOTICABLE HP difference I say you need to look at your operation or procedures on raceday. True there will be some power to cooler fuel, I just don't think for 99.9% of the bracket guys on here it is worth the extra expense in the regulator and plumbing to matter.

FWIW I have run brackets and S/ST the last few years where we are not allowed to tow to the lanes. The car was driven to and from the pit spot to the lanes. We have tried pulling it up and cooling it down with ice and a chiller when running Q16 type stuff. IN the end the gains were nominal at best and in the end the effort was not worth it. We began to drive it up for that as well. Now with the heads up car and the new one it will be towed everywhere to save wear and tear as well as being able to keep the engine temperature as low as possible

Return line from the pump to the tank could be too small, and unless you are making over 700 HP, you don't need -8's to the carb. -6's would be plenty. You could be blowing the needles ( what size are they )off the seats periodically. How much does it creep? Magnafuel makes one of the best regs out there so I think you need to start looking somewhere else. High volume pumps usually require a return line from the reg - whether they have a bypass built in or not. Where are your gauges located in the system?

He is making just shy of 1000hp. The -8's are what the carb builder wants for this application. Don't really wanna get into the pressure, volume debate but suffice it to say -8 is what needs to be there.

We run an EFI750 pump dead headed to the regulator with just a bypass for the pump with no issues. MagnaFuel sold us the system just this way.

10-4 on that. Regardless, if he has creep and discarding a bad reg ( he's changed how many?)he aint bleeding off enough pressure.

Not arguing that at all. As I say if you keep killing the regualtors might wanna look at the entire system not just blame the regulator. IMO if you are "killing" pretty darn good parts you might want to start finding the cause, not blaming the symptom. OR you have the worlds worst luck

Maybe now he needs a return system... I was unaware that
he eats regulators

lol

What is the pressure to the regulator? The bypass is adjustable.

I believe the BG 400 should have 21 to 23 lbs pressure before the regulator I use a Magnafuel 4 port on my car with E85 with a BG 400 pump, I ended up turning down the pressure on the Magnafuel gauge hooked into the regulator from 7.5 lbs to 5.0 lbs to the carb. and saw no changes after replacing the old Moon fuel pressure gauge on that regulator that would vary some on the pressures

Thanks everyone... After reading what you all said, it sounds like my suspicions are correct and I need to look at the fuel pump..

Magnafuel......

Then it's not truly deadheaded if it bypasses at the pump now is it.

Well then he is golden there to since a BG400 uses a pump bypass as well.

In the context it is being referred to hear they are talking about return style system after the regulated fuel to the carbs, not at the pump or unregulated fuel. My comments are toward the system being discussed. Don't believe in return systems from the carbs back, bypass at the pump yes.

That's true, but most consider a return system one that returns to tank from the reg. My wife's 79 300 (stock fuel system ) actually has a return line off the fuel filter ( after the mechanical pump ). I think the return fitting off the filter has a .060" orifice in it. Pretty sure they ( Chrysler ) were trying to address vapor lock issues.

Unless we are discussing nitrous engines I believe return style systems as referred to here are not necessary. In a nitrous deal I can see it being used to prevent any aeration in the lines to the nitrous solenoids but also seen many many of those guys who do not bother then either. Those systems are similar to what Crizila described and are to bleed air through small orifice lines at the regulators.

I had my fuel system designed by Magnafuel for a 700 HP blown application. They wanted a -10 return line from the reg. ( -8 to the reg. ) My system is all Magnafuel - filters, fittings, pump, reg.

AS our both of ours. No return, both dead head regulators and the bypass at the pump. 1100 and 1300hp

The direct pump bypass systems are on lots of fast cars but so are deadhead systems but my experience with the Aeromotive hot rod pump when bypassed was no volume left to feed my motor. You could hear the motor struggling to make power on the second half of the track even though the company said it was fine but it wasn't and the Magnafuel 300 system totally rocks and drives fine for long trips on the street.