R3 roller lifter question

I just picked up an R3 small block with stock style 59 degree lifter angles. If I decide to go with a roller cam combo on this build is there a roller lifter available to clear the block. Everything I read warns against grinding the block for tie bar clearance as you WILL hit water.

Have to clearance it no matter what.I did both of mine by hand no problem and use lifters from comp.

Did mine no problems but it's 48°

You need some nice W9 heads now.... I think I can help

Take that wing off the duster yet?

LOL Not giving up on the wing. I wish I had about 10 of them things.

Never give up!! Lol I wish I had just one

The wing is still at rest on the car for the 2015 race season. And as far as grinding the block I have a sonic checker so I guess I will do some testing but I see a block on ebay right now were their grinding did not end well.

My 59 degree R3 had the lifter bosses milled down for clearance. Comp 8043 lifters.

from the dept of I know absolutely nothing.... why were the 59 degree blocks not set up for roller lifters?

And that my Friend is the million dollar question. Who the heck designs some of this stuff?????

I ground my factory block for roller lifters had no problem there.

Ya I am stepping up from a 550 lift solid to a 650 lift roller cam this year and just finished grinding my stock block but mother mopar warns against it on the 59 degree R3 blocks so I thought I would throw this out there. Like I said there is one on eBay right now that they hit water and did an epoxy repair. It's for sale and they bought a 48 degree block

Used for NASCAR no rollers just solid cams, have the lifters you are going to use and start grinding. Most people hit water when they clearance them with a CNC or Bridgeport.

John,you not only have to clearance the block but you have to take into account that the lifter bore is .400 taller than a stock block,so you have to get a taller lifter or grind the top of the bore down so a conventional lifter will fit. These R3 blocks where designed from the beginning to be 48* and where cast with 6 bolts around each cylinder. They where converted to 59* as an afterthought, the lifter bore was moved closer in to the block to be 59* and the extra bolt bosses around the cylinders where milled off. What you have to watch for is that there are water passages running through the unused bolt bosses that you have to clearance for the lifter tie bars. What I did was used the rivet on the tie bar as my clearance point and I hand fit each lifter allowing a couple of thousands behind the rivet. If you just go in there hog wild with a grinder or Bridgeport you will hit water. Make sure you attach a piece of wood or something to the deck surface, it is very easy for the grinder to jump out of the valley near the top and nick the deck.-Randy

Thanks Randy. I just installed the roller cam you gave me and got her all degreed in and can't wait to see how it runs. I'll bet this engine won't run out of steam at 1000 foot like it did before. Thanks again.

This R3 block still has the bosses for the extra head bolts and they were drilled and tapped.

Had mine done by Ryan at Shadydell.
Because is a 59 deg ,the taller the lift the more crappy angle you will have.
My block looked like he took and endball mill and plunged cut the boss area. Still required clearancing from my machinist.

If it's like the R1 I had it'll have the bolt holes on the bottom side but not above the cylinders, those were removed to clear 59* push rods it looked like

FYI

My resto was machined for rollers. It takes the tall rollers. we have no problems with it. Big solid roller the lobes have ice caps. What we did have a problem with was the T&D rockers were hitting the retainers on some but not all. They were so far out some didn't have to be cut . He made a fixture to cut the rockers on a rotary table. You can see the difference. We drove and raced it for 6 years with it hitting on most..

Factory block isnt an issue running roller lifters. Many just drop in. Same with X block. Just drop in
59 degree R3 blocks are different in the lifter valley area than all others

Just for reference here is a 59* R1 with a Crane Roller lifter(old MP part#). This has been through Shady Dell's CNC Program. These lifters clear just fine but the comp 828-16 wouldn't and I had used them on a 360 block with no grinding in the past.

I used the Comp 8043 on my R1 and only had to cut the extra bolt bosses off. The 8043 has the link bars moved to the inside instead of being on the bore side of the block.

WOW!!!!! 4 year old post and I'm still running a solid lifter cam. LOL. Well it hasn't been all bad as the EDM lifters have held up well and its gone 5.98 in the 1/8 and 9.42 in the 1/4 running out get up and go on the top end. Which is really fine because every track I now race at runs 1/8 mile for my class. I was hoping to pull it and install another engine so I could freshen it but my get up and go got up and left. I changed the oil and transmission fluid, cut the oil filter apart (it looked GREAT) rebuilding the carb, new seat belts, and racing it. The 2019 race season is here.

LOL! I didn't pay any attention to the date, just replied after looking through it.

When my Dad and I built this engine comp was out of the 8043 and couldn't meet our timeline. My Dad reached into his small block archives and pulled out a 18 year old set of roller lifters brand new in the box and they worked great haha.

I saw the age of the post but added some info for anyone who may search in the future, I happen to have the heads off so it was easy to snap some pictures real quick.

Ryan at shady dell has a CNC program for that block to make a roller lifter fit

I saw that on his website but by time I drove out there twice I will have it done by hand. A lot cheaper too 😂

Just be careful, I understand there is a water jacket that sometimes makes a surprised appearance.

Like a said this is just my "bracket car" and running 6.0's is kind of a nice place to be. If and when I go to rebuild this engine I will see how the cam is holding up and go from there.

His "CNC" program is a joke, He runs an end mill straight down the valley knocking off the inboard head bolt bosses and shortening the lifter bosses. You still need to hand grind the valley walls for clearance.

I wound up getting an R3 block from a very good customer and I wound up doing a proper CNC profiling program that follows the contours of the block--It worked and looked really trick but it was not cheap. J.Rob

I have had him to two blocks and have been very pleased with the results.