Updates on the Edelbrock Victor Installed Height Saga

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... I decided to run the caps only because the sharp rockers sweep the roller from the center toward the outer tips of the valves at full lift and wanted more contact.

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Not trying to troll you here but I don't think you would have had the clearance issue if you were running Harland Sharp rockers. They don't have a gentle radius like the Hughes pieces. They cost literally 2X + as much though

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Not trolling at all. I was going to go T&D or Jesel on one of my identical 511" short blocks so that will be next. I was also going to do another set of Victors but am pretty interested in either -1's or something comparable. I'd like to see some detail shots of the HS offset rockers for the Victors if anyone has any. I was not super impressed with the fit and finish of the Hughes rockers but figured I'd see how they work out. I am also going to replace the adjusters with some Smith Brothers stuff. Should have just bought the T&D's at this point. We shall see how it works out.

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Wouldn't take a free pair of Victors. I can't believe in this day and age that a major company could not only design but build a part that is so screwed up. Guess they never heard of CAD
Doug

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This weekend I am going to cut up an old set of valves, drill and tap the head portion and weld a 1/4"x20 tpi bolt to the stem to make some adjustable length mockup valves for my Victor heads, so I could mockup the rocker arm height for the max wedge rocker arm blocks. I just need to check if my old valves (from my B1 B/S heads) are 11/32" or 3/8"?

Be careful using the rocker arm shims. I'm not sure if that is why I split the center rocker stand on my old set of victor heads.
I will say this new set looks like a better casting quality than the old set.

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Now to my question...why?

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Uhhhh... 'cuz somebody effed up?

I'll check my Hughes offset intakes & standard exhausts and see if there is a similar issue, but I don't recall noticing anything wrong when they've been mocked up on a head before.

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Just spent some time giving my Hughes rockers (1.6 offset int, 1.5 offset int, 1.5 std exh) a close and mine are all consistent w/ respect to roller pivot location. They all look basically like your offset intake, not your exhaust (which appears to have had the roller pin installed too low in the body).

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Not trying to troll you here but I don't think you would have had the clearance issue if you were running Harland Sharp rockers. They don't have a gentle radius like the Hughes pieces. They cost literally 2X + as much though

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Not trolling at all. I was going to go T&D or Jesel on one of my identical 511" short blocks so that will be next. I was also going to do another set of Victors but am pretty interested in either -1's or something comparable. I'd like to see some detail shots of the HS offset rockers for the Victors if anyone has any. I was not super impressed with the fit and finish of the Hughes rockers but figured I'd see how they work out. I am also going to replace the adjusters with some Smith Brothers stuff. Should have just bought the T&D's at this point. We shall see how it works out.

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What is the offset on the H&S rockers? I think the ones for the INDY heads are 0.800"?
My T&D rockers for the MW Victors are 0.725" offset, and I think the standard port Victors are a 0.600" offset?

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HS Intake offset for the standard or MW Victors is .650" I am running MW. I'm also using Comp 87019-16 lifters with .210 PR seat offset on intake. I hindsight I should have used the standard 829-16 solid body lifters and just done a little more clearencing for pusrods.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/mopar_vr_indy.htm

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I also went ahead and measured up the installed height on the 10 degree stuff with the valve LocCap retainer/cap setup and will try to compile that data over the weekend.

I ordered a set of Isky 9999-RAD springs that will work perfect for my cam and next up will be a set of their EZx rollers with all of the bells and whistles. I need to find a Manley dealer as well. Summit seems a big high on their titanium stuff.

If any of you 11/32" valve stem guys need to borrow the valve lock/retainer assortment I'll be happy to loan it out for a deposit equaling the sum of the parts + insured shipping both ways. I'm out 300 clams so you won't have to be.


Lastly...

A very special thanks to Mr. Michael Beachel of B3 Racing Engines. He was the only guy to hear me out and help engineer a solution when everyone else was telling me I was out of luck, buy a smaller cam, "just run it that way", etc.

This engine is going in my small tire, face plated 4-speed street car and its going to rip. I'm stoked!

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Are those longer valves than Victors come with normally, or did you figure out the right retainers and locks to raise the installed height that much?

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What do you have for retainers? Comp thinks I should use a 1.645" triple spring #947. It has [Email]338@2.00"[/Email] seat pressure! I told them my current springs with 275 on the seat, 700+ open, and they said that might be OK, but they prefer to error on the stiffer side?

I'm not sure my rocker arms will clear that large of a spring?

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Updated Spreadsheet with the 10 degree stuff:

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Thanks for posting your findings

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The aluminum threads will pull out long before the stud breaks if you think about it.

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I'd rather not...

Found the ARPs are 180,000 psi.

Not sure what the Indy studs are rated, but the longer of the two used in their 440-1/SR stud kits are 3.5+" long. If you were concerned enough to swap 'em out, you could probably get all long ones and cut down the ones that need to be shorter, 'cuz I believe their short ones are still < 3".

Just a thought (or two).

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You are correct on the Indy studs. I am going to measure up the Hughes, Indy, and Jeremiah (McMaster-Carr) kit over the weekend and post the lengths. To set this straight my concern is only the center rocker stand due to it's lack of girth and problems experienced by other users.

So yes, the 3.5" studs are not a concern. My initial measurements told me that I needed a 3" stud with 1" of thread engagement into the center rocker stand. As far as I know there is only one made and having them made up custom at $22/pc is out of the question. The studs from McMaster-Carr are high quality, rolled threads. The studs from Indy look like the thread was machined. Does anyone know the tensile strength of the Indy stud? What material do they use? Do we know what tensile strength is even required?

I sure don't have enough FEA, strengths of materials or load testing experience/background to say one way or another. I do have (barely) enough experience to say we are over thinking this and I should just run them and whoop some some a$$ on the street and track.

Look at it this way - if my engine breaks because of the studs or any other of the untested parts in it we can all learn and...I have another identical 511" short block sitting next to this one.

Besides, pretty soon it's going to get hot the only car we have running is the convertible. I'll forget about this nonsense, close the shop for summer and you can find us in the pond floating around with a cold beers.

bikini clad girl > sweaty meats heads at race track

ps Do any of you guys have the ability to test bolt shear at work? I'd be willing to donate some parts.

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The bolts I used were from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90281a636/=w52oaz

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90281a638/=w52obb

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Just for comparison, I noticed the strength rating on those studs are only 125,000 psi vs. what Hughes sells (I know, those are too short) that are rated at 170,000 psi.

Don't know what ARP's studs are, but I'd be curious if that 125,000 psi level is strong enough, considering the spring pressure you're going to run.

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