Moparts

racing oil

Posted By: mk_

racing oil - 12/26/14 06:02 PM

I've been running the penzoil 25w50 racing oil in my low 10 second 498 bracket engine but find its quite thick and takes a long time to warm up and thin out before first run in the mornings.
I want to switch to a much thinner oil for next year and came across this interesting but long article some of you might find interesting as well.

engine oil testing

I know many of the stockers and super stockers run a light oil and gain some ET, but for regular bracket racing do some of you run thin oil successfully with minimal engine wear over a season or two?
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:35 PM

mobil 1 synthetic what ever weight you choose
Posted By: JLaSalle

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:40 PM

Been running 10-30 synthetic for the last 15 years.No problems with wear.I feel it keeps a tighter et window ie not picking up a bunch during hotlap situations.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:45 PM

I was blending 2 oils to get the pressure I wanted
on the engine at the shut down with hot oil... I would
warm the engine up driving around the top end area
so the whole drive line would warm up... I just didnt
like 0 oil pressure like the SS racers would see on
the shut down.. on the tear downs I didnt see anything
that would be a issue
Posted By: Challenger 1

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:46 PM

I think 15W40 would be good for you. Sure you could go thinner and maybe single viscosity?, but I think 14W40 oil is best for you because you race in the cold and hot it sounds like?
Posted By: Geezer

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:48 PM

Looks like Old WalMart Re-refined non detergent came out on top.
Posted By: pittsburghracer

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:49 PM

I usually go 3 seasons of weekly racing from April to November and use 10-30 Brad Penn Racing Oil. Lots of 3 day race weekends plus lots of test n tunes. PA and Ohio weather ( Colder than heck to hotter than )
Posted By: 340B5

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 06:55 PM

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.
Posted By: 1967dartgt

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 07:05 PM

Seen it before, but still interesting.
Posted By: LSP

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 07:21 PM

Quote:

I know many of the stockers and super stockers run a light oil and gain some ET, but for regular bracket racing do some of you run thin oil successfully with minimal engine wear over a season or two?



In my case 0 weight is only used for class run offs, 5-20 used for eliminations that weekend and all year long.

What you can get away with for viscosity depends largely on clearances. I'd take it one step down in viscosity at a time, until you reach the oil pressure you're looking for.
Posted By: Mattax

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 09:05 PM

It was great that "Rat" was willing to do that test. Unfortunately, a combination of his personality and blindness to other factors turned most of the speedtalk threads into p*ss*ng contests.

Although I am concerned about wear, my own opinion has shifted to placing first priority on getting the right viscosity for the application. Along with the pressure gage, an oil temperature sensor is really helpful for this. I have one in the oil pan that fit the drain plug (although I've moved it to the side now). Last I looked VDO no longer makes that version. Too bad 'cause it was convenient.

Here's what I found most useful on the web:
A. E. Haas's Short course on oil viscosity. I think this originally was posted on a Ferrari forum. For me it was easiest to read by cutting and pasting into Word. I also drew the graphs he describes because I prefer pictures.

Richard Widman's Oil Selection Paper (pdf) download from this webpage. Although written for street driven Covair's, its easy enough to apply the information supplied to any racing or street/strip uses. After reading this, its obvious that Rat's testing is useful but not sufficient.

Widman also has an on-line oil weight temperature-viscosity graphing tool. Pretty nifty.

So, currently I'm running Brad Penn in the car and T6 in the Wagoneer because they offer good flat tappet anti-wear packages in the viscosity ranges I needed.
Posted By: BradH

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 09:19 PM

Quote:

It was great that "Rat" was willing to do that test. Unfortunately, a combination of his personality and blindness to other factors turned most of the speedtalk threads into p*ss*ng contests.


x2...

I don't put much value in his testing procedures or results. Despite all his self-professed expertise on the topic, too many engine builders with far more day-to-day experiences called bogus on him, and then turned a deaf ear to his long-winded diatribes against them for not drinking his Kool-Aid.

Just my opinion, naturally...
Posted By: Locomotion

Re: racing oil - 12/26/14 09:45 PM

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.





Use the right oil with the proper additives, valve train set up correctly and break it in right and you won't have a problem. I've done it for many years.


Amsoil synthetics - Wide variety of viscosities and applications.

FWIW, I run their Dominator 5w-20 all the time. I'm hoping to swap the engine out soon after about 4 season to play it safe because of fatigue concerns, not wear. Oil pressure might be considered a little high, around 70+ through the lights. But me and the engine are happy.
Posted By: AndyF

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 12:08 AM

If you know what your bearing clearances are and you know what the oil temp is when you're racing then you have enough information to call around and get a recommendation. The tech guys at the oil places will want to know that information.

A lot of drag cars go down the track with the oil fairly cold so you need to use a thinner oil than if it was a circle track car that runs at full temp. But you don't want to go too thin if your engine builder used wider clearances for the bearings.

A 10W-30 should be a good compromise for most bracket type engines but you might want to go a little thicker or thinner depending on your conditions.

I don't think you really need a 20w-50 unless it is super hot where you race and you have really big clearances in the engine. You are probably putting a lot of drag on your oil pump and maybe damaging your engine running that thick of an oil. Especially if the oil temp is less than 200+ degrees when you go full throttle.
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 01:28 AM

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying
Posted By: dvw

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 02:56 AM

I run 5w30 Royal Purple. Change it at the end of the year (100) passes.
.003"rods/.0028" mains. Pressure relief is set to 60 psi@7100. I've checked bearing last year and will this year as well. They looked like new last check. Also only run 6-7 quarts in a 10 quart pan. The motor is always warmed up before making passes. Oil temp seldom exceeds 160 degrees.
Doug
Posted By: mopar dave

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 03:23 AM

I read an article in drag racing about a new oil called LAT that they claim is good for 4% increase. they gained 10hp on a 185hp vw test mule just with oil change alone.
Posted By: slammedR/T

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 03:29 AM

Quote:

mobil 1 synthetic what ever weight you choose



^^ this!!!! I love my Mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50 racing oil. ,I also really like the lucas racing oil but it is harder to find or you have to order it. The mobil 1 is cheap at walmart compared to online or parts store prices.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 05:16 AM

I've ran and used Valvoline 5W20Wtnon synthetic for a lot of years (15+yrs)in my street and strip as well as race only BB Mopar bracket motors making well over 600 HP with no problems so far. I do run loose clearnaces all thruoghout the motor, .003+ on the rods, .0035+ on the mains, .001+ on the wrist pins and at least .001 more than recommended on the piston to cylinder walls clearnces at room temps, .60 to 80 F I shoot for(trim the oil pump bypass spring to set the WOT pressures) the 10 lbs per 1000 RPM rule with hot oil,160+F on the engine dyno with the Valvoline 5W20Wt oil
Posted By: AndyF

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 05:25 AM

160 is fairly cold for oil temp so need to run the lighter weight oil.

I run Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 in my dyno engine. We try to get the oil temp up to 200 degrees but it is almost impossible to do even with a big heater in the oil tank. My oil lines are insulated which helps but the oil still cools off really fast. My engine will hold 80 psi at speed but at idle it drops down to about 30 psi hot.
Posted By: BradH

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 07:21 AM

I can tell from some of these posts that my thoughts / philosophies re: oil weights, clearance #s, etc. are really different from some of the people on here. No point in going into any details, since it'll just end up in another MoPissin' Contest.
Posted By: 340B5

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 04:55 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying



A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 04:59 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying



A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.




You`re kidding right?
Posted By: 340B5

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 05:01 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying



A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.




You`re kidding right?



No
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 05:20 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying



A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.




You`re kidding right?



No

you better tell that to all the flat tappet cams i have run with a true sythetic
Posted By: dvw

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 06:02 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Synthetic is great for Rollers but it can wipe a flat tappet.

I don't think so, just saying



A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.


Lifter rotation is caused by taper in the lobes face. I doubt if less friction would cause lack of rotation. That being said. I've built 2 customer motors that were long term builds, 7 years BB Mopar, 13 years SB Chevy. Both had mild .500" lift hydraulic cams. Both used Mobil One. Both sit for long periods of time. Both had hydraulic flat tappet cam failures. My theory is possibly most of the oil drained of the cam. Neither were idled fast after long term start up. Therefore minimal oil splash to the cam. Only a theory. I do run Mobil one in my solid flat tappet motor w/o issue.
Doug



You`re kidding right?



No

Posted By: LSP

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 06:15 PM

Quote:

I can tell from some of these posts that my thoughts / philosophies re: oil weights, clearance #s, etc. are really different from some of the people on here. No point in going into any details, since it'll just end up in another MoPissin' Contest.



Don't worry about someone having a different take on things. Whether anyone agrees or not, there's usually something that can be learned good or bad, or a statement might be made that can provoke more in-depth thought on the subject.
Posted By: dvw

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 07:06 PM

Quote:

160 is fairly cold for oil temp so need to run the lighter weight oil.

I run Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 in my dyno engine. We try to get the oil temp up to 200 degrees but it is almost impossible to do even with a big heater in the oil tank. My oil lines are insulated which helps but the oil still cools off really fast. My engine will hold 80 psi at speed but at idle it drops down to about 30 psi hot.

I agree. Even with a diaper on my aluminum pan it's difficult to get oil temp. I bring the water to 200 before a run let it soak, then cool the water to 140 before the run. I've been thinking about a pan heater. Mine will have 100+psi cold. Warm 20-30 at idle depending on oil temp, always 60 in the traps after 120 degrees. I've run as low as 40 in the traps with no bearing issue. I was to chicken to leave it that low.
Doug
Posted By: @#$%&*!

Re: racing oil - 12/27/14 10:32 PM

Quote:

I can tell from some of these posts that my thoughts / philosophies re: oil weights, clearance #s, etc. are really different from some of the people on here. No point in going into any details, since it'll just end up in another MoPissin' Contest.




Don't hold out, let 'er rip! I promise to back you up whatever you say as long as you don't refer to oil viscosity as 'weight.'

The stupid parts stores around here only shelf-stock VR1 Racing in 50 or 20-50 I got my latest supply from Amazon with a substantial rebate.
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 12:36 AM

Quote:

Quote:

I can tell from some of these posts that my thoughts / philosophies re: oil weights, clearance #s, etc. are really different from some of the people on here. No point in going into any details, since it'll just end up in another MoPissin' Contest.




Don't hold out, let 'er rip! I promise to back you up whatever you say as long as you don't refer to oil viscosity as 'weight.'thats just the way did it back then

The stupid parts stores around here only shelf-stock VR1 Racing in 50 or 20-50 I got my latest supply from Amazon with a substantial rebate.

who cares what someone calls it as long as you know what they are talking about? i call it weight all the time and don't care if it's the politically correct name
Posted By: Mattax

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 12:58 AM

Hmmm. Because SAE wts relate to viscosity but only if you know the temperature.
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 02:30 AM

Quote:

Hmmm. Because SAE wts relate to viscosity but only if you know the temperature.

What is the SAE temperature(in Farenhiet SP?) used for there specs? I know what the FAA and SAE standard atomsprhere specs but not the oil temp. specs for viscosity testing
Posted By: @#$%&*!

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 04:14 AM

Quote:



Don't hold out, let 'er rip! I promise to back you up whatever you say as long as you don't refer to oil viscosity as 'weight.'thats just the way did it back then

The stupid parts stores around here only shelf-stock VR1 Racing in 50 or 20-50 I got my latest supply from Amazon with a substantial rebate.

who cares what someone calls it as long as you know what they are talking about? i call it weight all the time and don't care if it's the politically correct name





Don't accuse me of politics when I'm trying to inject a little science into the thread

Blatantly plagiarized from Wikipedia:
"The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades."
Posted By: Mattax

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 05:23 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Hmmm. Because SAE wts relate to viscosity but only if you know the temperature.

What is the SAE temperature(in Farenhiet SP?) used for there specs? I know what the FAA and SAE standard atomsprhere specs but not the oil temp. specs for viscosity testing


On the left of side of Widman's pages he has a table of the SAE J300 specifications of viscosities for the various grades. You do have to convert to degrees F but thats not too hard. Just remember 100 C = 212 F and 0 C is 32 F and if you want to do the math its deg C x 1.8 than add 32 F.
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html

When get an oil spec sheet or send a sample out for analysis, they provide the viscosities of that specific sample or product because there is an allowable range within each grade. Widman has some graphs in his pdf on oil for corvairs/flat tappet engines. He explains the various properties of engine oil far better than I could and for that alone it is worth downloading.

Nemesis. Viscosity is a physical property. The SAE weight system is way to classify a useable product for our engines. J300 specifies the range of viscosity characteristics allowable within each weight grade.
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/28/14 11:02 AM

Quote:

Quote:



Don't hold out, let 'er rip! I promise to back you up whatever you say as long as you don't refer to oil viscosity as 'weight.'thats just the way did it back then

The stupid parts stores around here only shelf-stock VR1 Racing in 50 or 20-50 I got my latest supply from Amazon with a substantial rebate.

who cares what someone calls it as long as you know what they are talking about? i call it weight all the time and don't care if it's the politically correct name





Don't accuse me of politics when I'm trying to inject a little science into the thread

Blatantly plagiarized from Wikipedia:
"The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades."

not accusing you of anything but trying to make a simple thin more complex than it needs to be, ok we get it you are a very smart guy. a lot smarter than us who call it weight. but guess what, we don't care and have fun with your science.
Posted By: mk_

Re: racing oil - 12/29/14 05:20 PM

Thanks for the input…….there are some very interesting points made in the replies.
10W30 sounds like it may be worth trying…...I will call a couple of the oil manufacturers for their thoughts as well and go from there.
Posted By: 67Satty

Re: racing oil - 12/29/14 07:17 PM

Quote:



The stupid parts stores around here only shelf-stock VR1 Racing in 50 or 20-50 I got my latest supply from Amazon with a substantial rebate.



You can get VR-1 from NAPA in a 10W-30, you just have to ask them to order it and it shows up by the next day.
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: racing oil - 12/29/14 08:04 PM

If you hot lap / double entry on thinner oil in summer it can cause trouble and bearing failure ( local builder here --not me --has done it several times)

On the dyno-- you get oil Hot -- or run thinner oil it does make more HP--how much- who cares? what is 10 HP on a 700 HP bracket engine? It is a test that is all- so what it makes 10 more HP

Now on a circle track 350 two barrel with big rules limits and around 365 HP then that thin oil is the difference between first and last place

I have never had a failure that could be blamed on oil unless you consider flat tappet lobe lifter issues --NEVER a bearing or wear issue due to oil.
I have run every kind there is and it is like politics and religion and family matters--no good solid answers

With Nitro or alky it becomes a different tale--it DOES matter what you run due to dilution--some work / some fail big time in that dept.

Bracket racers might as well run what is on sale if they have a roller.
Posted By: mack

Re: racing oil - 12/29/14 11:02 PM

When I got the new 426 bullet from Arrow Racing they told me to go to the line with oil at 195 degrees... Also to run Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic... So far no problems... I figure they know their engine.....
Posted By: 1320Dart

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 12:04 AM

Quote:

If you hot lap / double entry on thinner oil in summer it can cause trouble and bearing failure ( local builder here --not me --has done it several times)

On the dyno-- you get oil Hot -- or run thinner oil it does make more HP--how much- who cares? what is 10 HP on a 700 HP bracket engine? It is a test that is all- so what it makes 10 more HP

Now on a circle track 350 two barrel with big rules limits and around 365 HP then that thin oil is the difference between first and last place

I have never had a failure that could be blamed on oil unless you consider flat tappet lobe lifter issues --NEVER a bearing or wear issue due to oil.
I have run every kind there is and it is like politics and religion and family matters--no good solid answers

With Nitro or alky it becomes a different tale--it DOES matter what you run due to dilution--some work / some fail big time in that dept.

Bracket racers might as well run what is on sale if they have a roller.



So what oil do you run if you are running alcohol?
Posted By: STROKIE

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 12:42 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:



Blatantly plagiarized from Wikipedia:
"The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating they are "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades."

not accusing you of anything but trying to make a simple thin more complex than it needs to be, ok we get it you are a very smart guy. a lot smarter than us who call it weight. but guess what, we don't care and have fun with your science.



May be a dumb question..
Why Mobil 1 Racing have 0W-30 and 0w-50 normally if 0W are for winter why use it in racing engine,most racing car are use during warm weather...
Posted By: Anonymous

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 02:16 AM

Some oils just hate alky--they look bad quick
Brad Penn does very well with alky and is most alky users first choice
The new Kendal GT1--I may be wrong I think it is Conoco from Texas now--seems to do well with alky and is pretty cheap at around $35 case range--I have been buying it from wholesaler, running in alky injected and it is doing good so far
I like the Penn but the price is just too high for as much as I go through--
I have no doubt Walmart oil would do OK too--this is just one of those topics that no matter what--folks are not going to agree on anything about it.
I like learning but that guy lost me when he said he believed things David Vizard said--
Posted By: 72Swinger

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 02:31 AM

I always ran Mobil 1 15w50 red cap in my BB flat tappet engine for 19 years. My Gen III will probably get Mobil 1 0W40 because of the tight bearing clearances and oil squirters. I also believe that the way the oil returns to the pan on these things a lighter oil is needed.
Posted By: NOM36

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 02:35 AM

I would like to see what people think about oils and alcohol.

Seems like there is a debate about dilution and non-diluted.
Posted By: dwayne welder

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 03:34 AM

HI ALL!!!!! Happy Holidays Here's a good web site to go and learn a lot about oil!!!!! www.BOBISTHEOILGUY.COM Enjoy and have fun!!!!
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 10:44 AM

Quote:

I would like to see what people think about oils and alcohol.

Seems like there is a debate about dilution and non-diluted.

depends on how the car is tuned imo. I have run alky injected and carb. if it's rich it will dilute any oil if it's tuned you can't tell the difference between gas.
Posted By: 1320Dart

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 01:20 PM

Quote:

Some oils just hate alky--they look bad quick
Brad Penn does very well with alky and is most alky users first choice
The new Kendal GT1--I may be wrong I think it is Conoco from Texas now--seems to do well with alky and is pretty cheap at around $35 case range--I have been buying it from wholesaler, running in alky injected and it is doing good so far
I like the Penn but the price is just too high for as much as I go through--
I have no doubt Walmart oil would do OK too--this is just one of those topics that no matter what--folks are not going to agree on anything about it.
I like learning but that guy lost me when he said he believed things David Vizard said--




I heard Red Line does well with alcohol. Any truth to that?
It seems it was a bit cheaper than the Penn oil too. But that's been a little bit.
Posted By: gregsdart

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 04:17 PM

20w50 Brad Penn suits my race motor because I run it hot with fairly large clearances of .003 rods and .0035 mains plus high temps. I warm the motor past 210 for the start of the day and the oil temp goes over 200. I stage at 185 and the oil temp is still above 200 at the line. Injectors are VERY fat at idle but the heat boils off the alky that gets in the oil because Methanol boils at 149 degrees. Water boils out as well with no problems or milking ever.
Posted By: John_Kunkel

Re: racing oil - 12/30/14 11:24 PM

Quote:

A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.



Some myths never die.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/...ve-the-answers/
Posted By: 77DragracerR/T

Re: racing oil - 12/31/14 02:44 AM

VR-1 10w30 has been in my 408 since 2009 and I had it apart last year and it was in great shape.Didn't need to change the bearings but I did anyway. No reason for me to go to another brand of oil.
Posted By: Eric

Re: racing oil - 12/31/14 03:52 PM

I ran 15w50 Mobil1 for years with a flat tappet and I think the cam is about the only thing I've never broke.. Now since I put the motor back in I am running Brad Penn 10w30 and so far I really like the stuff.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: racing oil - 12/31/14 05:31 PM

Quote:

VR-1 10w30 has been in my 408 since 2009 and I had it apart last year and it was in great shape.Didn't need to change the bearings but I did anyway. No reason for me to go to another brand of oil.



As good as that oil is, I think you should change it cos that`s a LONG time w/out an oil change............
Posted By: 340B5

Re: racing oil - 12/31/14 07:14 PM

Quote:

Quote:

A true synthetic is slick enough that the lifters can quit rotating.



Some myths never die.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/...ve-the-answers/



Myth or not, I've had 2 well respected Automotive machinists tell me otherwise. I'm sticking w/Brad Penn.
Posted By: BuckeyeBrawler

Re: racing oil - 01/01/15 10:33 AM

I've always ran Brad Penn 20/50 bearings always have looked good at tear downs, religiously warm motor and driveline by motoring around pits. Water temp to 200-210 then let it cool to 140. I use a block heater even during the summer unless really hot Ohio weather and try and pull into burn out box @ 180 water temp. Aluminum rods live and bearings look good. there may be something better out there, but she's not hurting parts so I'm not changing a thing.
Posted By: BuckeyeBrawler

Re: racing oil - 01/01/15 10:42 AM

Sorry guys forgot to mention also run a Moroso accumulator so I never start the motor dry flip the toggle switch wait a 20 to 30 seconds and light her it up. Never start it dry and also some added protection for the big wheel stands that I hate, not to mention it helps at the shutdown area as well. Cheap insurance IMO
Posted By: CompWedgeEngines

Re: racing oil - 01/01/15 06:38 PM

Brad Penn is a semi synthetic...use it...and never look back. The results are what the are. It works.

As an FYI side,on the alcohol we run BP70W in the blown alky cars, best stuff yet.
Posted By: camastomcat

Re: racing oil - 01/01/15 07:38 PM

I used to run 5-50 synthetic, Mobile 1, Castrol, etc. Been using Brad Penn semi synthetic 10-30 after break in, the last couple of years. I also run a 3 quart accumulator, .003 rods, .0035 mains, with no issues from oil. I like it. I'm at 80+#'s through the lights at 8000 RPM, oil temp at 140-160. I couldn't care less about water temp at the starting line unless it's overheating. I also have a pan heater and won't make a pass until oil temp is 120. BTW viscosity is measured in centapoise@70 degrees F(cps), not weight. It doesn't matter to me what you want to call it, but that is right.
Posted By: 1320Dart

Re: racing oil - 01/01/15 07:54 PM

Quote:

Brad Penn is a semi synthetic...use it...and never look back. The results are what the are. It works.

As an FYI side,on the alcohol we run BP70W in the blown alky cars, best stuff yet.



What would you use in a carbureted alcohol motor?
Posted By: steeldust

Re: racing oil - 01/06/15 06:19 AM

Brad Penn 10w-30 is what I run in my 572 on Alky and I run the same oil now with my 582 on no2 and nitrous. Brad Penn 10w-30
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