R3 Block Question

If you are interested there is a set of worked 59* W9s with Jesel Roller Rockers on Racingjunk. http://www.racingjunk.com/Heads/182136708/mopar-W9-heads-w-rockers.html

It depends how much the + means in 1000hp+. If you're talking right around 1000hp, you don't need a 48 degree block or W9 heads to do it.

Around 15psi will basically double the HP of a N/A motor (Give 'er take a little in some cases).

So to make 1000hp, you really only need around 500hp NA to do it. Do you need a W9 head to do that? Of course not.

When I added it up before for my next project, I actually found at that power level the Hemi was the best bang for the buck. Blocks will withstand 1000hp, 6.1L cranks are cheap and will take that power, rocker arms are strong, and the heads will flow plenty enough to do it.

A low deck would also be a good choice because of the block strength, but you'll end up spending a bit more for crank/heads/rockers to do it.

Granted you'll have some expense with the EFI stuff, but the savings on the block/crank/heads/rockers more then offset it.

Want to make significantly more then 1000hp? Then the R3 combo will start to win the price war.

P.S. If you're talking about my block on race junk, it's already sold. http://www.racingjunk.com/Blocks/182127210/Mopar-R3-Block-Brand-New.html

Dizuster- that actually was the block that sparked my curiosity. My right now is around 1000 hp. But as anyone that has ever built a car knows once you reach your power goal, you almost always want more. So not only am I researching for my current goal, but I also want to leave myself room to improve down the road.

I have also done a lot of research I to the hemis. The main concern for me with the stock 6.1 block is the possible oiling problem. Some people say worry about and some say don't. If you look into aftermarket stock crank or stroker kits then it really is about the same price as a big or small block. I like the idea of more room in the engine bay with the small block. From what I can tell the hemi gives you from space in front of the engine over a big block but width is no better because of the size of the heads.


So many choices and decisions out there! If I were to not use the W9 head what would be another good option?

Don't worry about the packaging space. There is plenty of room with any option (big block, hemi, or small block) to make it work.

How quick/fast are you trying to go? 1000hp will get a regular 3300lb car down to 8.50 (or better). Beyond that, it needs a funny car style cage, and a lot more certification work.

I'm all for planning ahead, but you are talking about a CONSIDERABLE cost difference between R3/W9 1500hp motor, and a Low Deck/Gen 3 1000hp motor.

Other then the FEW people I have heard on THIS board "saying" there is an issue... I do not believe that there really is a 6.1L oiling issue. Really... do a google search and try to find reference to a 6.1L crank cross drilled issue that didn't stem from this board.

BES told me they have them running over 1000hp without an issue.

HHP said the same thing.

Remember... with the turbo stuff it makes so much torque you don't need to turn killer RPM to make power. My 75mm turbo on a iron headed 360, made 700+ at 5600rpm. The cam was only 224@.050" with .499" lift. So at 6500~7000rpm, what 6.1L oiling issue would you be worried about anyway?

Just curious what factory low deck can take 1000 hp?

Turbo'd? 400 or 383 block... No problem.

Lots of examples out there.

Trendz did it, so did the SDCE challenger.

Neither blew up.

Trendz was sold running, and the orange challenger was submarined in a flood (but still ran).

Each to their own. I would like a KB block too... just depends on how brave you are, and how much you got to spend.

I was at Englishtown with Scott one time when it blew up. In person. He later put a aftermarket block in it. iirc

Should ask Stephen daurity on here how his faired.

But I would think a small block would be easier to package. I would use a w8 head for the thicker deck. You can make plenty of power.

48* R3-W8 has VERY high ceiling and if I was starting from scratch, this would be my choice in a straight headed small block combination.

First off I've put a 88mm in a 69 RR and you can't tell me there's plenty of room. Not without cutting sheet metal to make room for stuff. Any bit of extra room would help.

And no this website is not the only place to read about the real/ possible 6.1 cranks. Go to LXForums and search. It comes down to a volume issue. You can use a stock crank, a larger pan and an accusump and hope its works or you can get an aftermarket crank and a bigger pan and know it's going to work! Not sure I want that doubt in my mind.

Same with a stock low or RB block. Either way they weren't designed for that kind of power. Some will say girdles work and others say they're just a band aid for future problems.

I know what R blocks cost, but haven't researched the W8 or W9 heads and everything associated with them in detail yet. I do know the cost involved with and aftermarket big block and bigblock heads! And no matter what it all cost large amounts of $$$$$! Just want to keep my options open.

I would love to see some new hemis at 1000 hp in race cars and live. Don't think there's enough of them yet. There's one local to me that will get raced hard this year and am curious to see how it lives.

Another question is between the Siamese and non Siamese blocks. Obviously you can bore the Siamese blocks more due to the lack of water jackets but are they any stronger than the other blocks? Obviously if you bore any cylinder too much they will weaken, but if you stay within specs on the non Siamese block will it be weaker. And has there been problems with the Siamese block and cooling issues. I know from personal that it was harder to keep the small block Chevy 400 cool which is also a Siamese block.

No cooling issues with those blocks. I would assume extra meat gives a stiff cylinder wall for better ring seal.

I have a non Siamese block. Wish I had Siamese to go bigger bore.

Thanks again for all the advice and input.

Might give brett a shout (W5dart66).... he'll give you an idea of what you're looking at for cylinder heads.