Posted By: Crizila
tire pressure - 12/12/13 05:21 AM
Was running 14 lbs with tubes in my 29X13.5/15 Hoosiers QT's. Gonna start the season with the same tires, but tubeless. Thinking of starting around 20 lbs?
Quote:No recommendations on their sight for tire pressure. They are bias ply tires. They wrinkled quite a bit with 14 lbs in them. At 11 lbs they looked like they were starting to wad. I considered going up in pressure due to less side wall support with no tubes? Car is heavy ( 3600 lbs )and I am sure more than 50% on the nose.
You know your car better than anyone but ..
20 lbs sounds like an awful lot to me ??
What does MFG recommend ?
They hit it pretty close most often
Quote:Quote:No recommendations on their sight for tire pressure. They are bias ply tires. They wrinkled quite a bit with 14 lbs in them. At 11 lbs they looked like they were starting to wad. I considered going up in pressure due to less side wall support with no tubes? Car is heavy ( 3600 lbs )and I am sure more than 50% on the nose.
You know your car better than anyone but ..
20 lbs sounds like an awful lot to me ??
What does MFG recommend ?
They hit it pretty close most often
Quote:
Was running 14 lbs with tubes in my 29X13.5/15 Hoosiers QT's. Gonna start the season with the same tires, but tubeless. Thinking of starting around 20 lbs?
Quote:
Was running 14 lbs with tubes in my 29X13.5/15 Hoosiers QT's. Gonna start the season with the same tires, but tubeless. Thinking of starting around 20 lbs?
Quote:I might go back to them, but I was having "rim creep" at 14 lbs and was concerned about swallowing a valve stem. Don't wanna use screws. Could have glued them, which is what I have done when I mounted them back up without the tubes. Next outing is first week in January, so I guess I will see then.
Why are you ditching the tubes? In my experience heavier cars like them.
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If those tires are not directional how about rotating them every other race to stop and reverse the tire movement I've done that in the past on tubeless tires, mark the bead at the valve stem and watch the movement, when it has moved 1 to 2 inche switch sides and wait until it goes 1 inch past the original marks the other way and then swap them again another option is to use screws on the inside only
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is this pressure while you are street racing or at the track?
Quote:. Good idea on the tire rotation Cab. Already got them marked.
is this pressure while you are street racing or at the track?
Quote:Ya Dom, was running screws on both sides and same location per your thread. Just don't want to screw my new Convo Pros if I don't have to. BTW, got a screw locating disc for 15" wheels if anyone ever needs to borrow it.Quote:
If those tires are not directional how about rotating them every other race to stop and reverse the tire movement I've done that in the past on tubeless tires, mark the bead at the valve stem and watch the movement, when it has moved 1 to 2 inche switch sides and wait until it goes 1 inch past the original marks the other way and then swap them again another option is to use screws on the inside only
I`d run screws myself and screws on the inside only have proven to not be the answer. There`s some videos and posts on the bullet talking about this and even mentions having the inside and outside screws be in the exact location. It was also mentioned that the amount of screws determins how the tire "wads up" and the length of those wads................
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Ya Dom, was running screws on both sides and same location per your thread. Just don't want to screw my new Convo Pros if I don't have to. BTW, got a screw locating disc for 15" wheels if anyone ever needs to borrow it.
Quote:Quote:
Ya Dom, was running screws on both sides and same location per your thread. Just don't want to screw my new Convo Pros if I don't have to. BTW, got a screw locating disc for 15" wheels if anyone ever needs to borrow it.
For what its worth my 10.5x31W M/T are tubeless on a 10" rim @13.5 psi unscrewed and unglued. 1.32-1.35@3340lbs
Doug
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There`s no doubt some get away w/screws but in addition to guaranteeing the tire wont slip there`s an advantage(supposedly)to the screw spacing and controlling the "wadding up" of the tire.............