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Does anybody know what size hole needs to be drilled into an intake to use a water pump bypass hose? Also, what size threads to tap for the nipple that would go into it? I picked up an Indy 360-3 intake and this area is currently closed off, and I would like to run the bypass hose since this is a street car.
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Does anybody know what size hole needs to be drilled into an intake to use a water pump bypass hose? Also, what size threads to tap for the nipple that would go into it? I picked up an Indy 360-3 intake and this area is currently closed off, and I would like to run the bypass hose since this is a street car.
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Ryan, did you remember to modify it to accommodate the bypass hose?
Height wise, yeah it better damn well be about same as your M1 LOL But no spacer required on this...
Forgot about the bypass hose, you're the only person I know who still runs one... looks like I'll be breaking out the 3/4" NPT tap tomorrow. LOL [end quote]
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I am using the Indy intake also without the bypass hose. I drive mine on the street and it never gets over 170* if that is what you are worried about. I have a thermostat in it with the center knocked out, so the water will circulate when I am cooling between rounds. I am running a Proform electric water pump and a electric fan pushing from the outside of the radiator.
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Guys, isn't the reason behind the bypass hose to keep water from the block circulating when using a thermostat to avoid building up pressure?
I would like to still run a thermostat as this is a street car, and from what I have read using a stat far outweighs using a retrictor plate or nothing at all in a street car.
I am also running an edelbrock high flow mechanical water pump.
Unless I am missing something, is there some sort of benefit to not running the bypass hose when using a thermostat?
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Guys, isn't the reason behind the bypass hose to keep water from the block circulating when using a thermostat to avoid building up pressure?
I would like to still run a thermostat as this is a street car, and from what I have read using a stat far outweighs using a retrictor plate or nothing at all in a street car.
I am also running an edelbrock high flow mechanical water pump.
Unless I am missing something, is there some sort of benefit to not running the bypass hose when using a thermostat?
The reason is to keep the heat in the engine to warm
up quicker for the heater and now days for emissions
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Thermostat ..... HA haven't ran one in probably 8 years. Stock pump or electric.
I agree, leave it blocked off, drill some holes in the Thermostat if you wish to circulate water.
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So if I eliminate the thermostat all together (see some mention running a gutted t-stat) how much longer would it take the car to warm up on average?
Also, if the bypass gets blocked and I leave the t-stat installed but drill some holes in it, will that help the coolant to flow while the stat is still closed? or will holes not flow enough to do that?
I don't want hot spots in the engine, nor do I want to cavitate the pump
Do electric pumps require you to not run a t-stat for these reasons?
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Thermostat ..... HA haven't ran one in probably 8 years. Stock pump or electric.
I agree, leave it blocked off, drill some holes in the Thermostat if you wish to circulate water.
Did you notice that it takes the car longer to warm up without one? Do you run a restrictor in its place, or nothing at all?
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Thermostat ..... HA haven't ran one in probably 8 years. Stock pump or electric.
I agree, leave it blocked off, drill some holes in the Thermostat if you wish to circulate water.
Did you notice that it takes the car longer to warm up without one? Do you run a restrictor in its place, or nothing at all?
Yes it takes longer, this is only an issue if you live as close to the north pole as you do.
I ran nothing.
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What if I am ditching the heater setup totally? Will the stat with the holes drilled in it suffice, or will the pump still be dead headed technically?
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FWIW I ran a gutted T-stat with a bypass hose and no heater, I tried it once with no T-stat or restrictor and the water was moving too fast to actually cool the motor and it wanted to overheat. Stock 1/2 ton 80's ram radiator.
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FWIW I ran a gutted T-stat with a bypass hose and no heater, I tried it once with no T-stat or restrictor and the water was moving too fast to actually cool the motor and it wanted to overheat. Stock 1/2 ton 80's ram radiator.
What do you run now?
Are you still running a bypass hose currently?
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There is an excellent cooling write up over on moparchats. He goes by 40ford over here.
I would be more interested in pulling the water out of the rear of the intake and plumbing below your drilled out thermostat. Matt
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If youre useing the heater box i see no reason to use the bypass.
The heater box does the same thing.
Im useing an electric water pump with stat and heater box no bypass.
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I run a 1/2" bypass hose with a t-stat and a electric pump to keep water moving when the stat is closed. You want the water to circulate by the t-stat so it will see the real water temp.
I drilled and tapped the manifold in the stock location and ran the hose to the unused port on the suction side of my Meziere pump with a reducing bushing and a hose fitting. Works well for me.
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I run a 1/2" bypass hose with a t-stat and a electric pump to keep water moving when the stat is closed. You want the water to circulate by the t-stat so it will see the real water temp.
I drilled and tapped the manifold in the stock location and ran the hose to the unused port on the suction side of my Meziere pump with a reducing bushing and a hose fitting. Works well for me.
Have a pic of this setup?
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So you never ran it with the holes drilled in it?
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I run a 1/2" bypass hose with a t-stat and a electric pump to keep water moving when the stat is closed. You want the water to circulate by the t-stat so it will see the real water temp.
I drilled and tapped the manifold in the stock location and ran the hose to the unused port on the suction side of my Meziere pump with a reducing bushing and a hose fitting. Works well for me.
Have a pic of this setup?
Here is my set up
