Your committed so trying rotating the tires side to side and watch the movement. I inflate my new tires to between 25 and 30 lbs to seat them on the rims and let them sit overnight before using them at the lower pressures needed for racing 
They still move some, both the radials and bias plys The tire moving with the tube is a big No No 
your taking a chance on ripping the stem out of the tube
Quote:10-4 on the tire movement with tubes Cab. I would prefer to run tubes. Think I will try the glue trick and rotate side to side more often. Movement in pic is about 6 runs.
I don't like using tubes in any of my drag race tires,no screws either
Quote:Thanks for all the good info!! Maybe I will pull the tubes and try gluing them
When I bought my new wheels this year I spent a lot of time researching this as I didn't want to drill the wheels if I didn't have to !4 inch wide wheels, 14-32's slicks). I was told if I run tubes you MUST drill wheels or risk ripping valve stem out of the tube and wrecking the car. If running tube-less seal the sidewalls with dawn soap mixed with a little water. Clean tire bead with lacquer thinner, scuff inside wheel bead with red sanding pad and clean with lacquer thinner. install tire on rim and carefully brush "high-tac" sealer on bead. Inflate slick to 20-25 pounds or tire to 35-40 pounds and let sit for 24 hours if possible. Set pressure where desired and go racing. Mine have moved approximately 1/4 inch in 4 races. The shop that mounted mine took extreme care when mounting and I had very little clean-up but I did so with some brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. The way it looks I will never drill a set of wheels again. My 60 foots are in the 1.38 range.
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Quote:Quote:Thanks for all the good info!! Maybe I will pull the tubes and try gluing them
When I bought my new wheels this year I spent a lot of time researching this as I didn't want to drill the wheels if I didn't have to !4 inch wide wheels, 14-32's slicks). I was told if I run tubes you MUST drill wheels or risk ripping valve stem out of the tube and wrecking the car. If running tube-less seal the sidewalls with dawn soap mixed with a little water. Clean tire bead with lacquer thinner, scuff inside wheel bead with red sanding pad and clean with lacquer thinner. install tire on rim and carefully brush "high-tac" sealer on bead. Inflate slick to 20-25 pounds or tire to 35-40 pounds and let sit for 24 hours if possible. Set pressure where desired and go racing. Mine have moved approximately 1/4 inch in 4 races. The shop that mounted mine took extreme care when mounting and I had very little clean-up but I did so with some brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. The way it looks I will never drill a set of wheels again. My 60 foots are in the 1.38 range.
Quote:Quote:Quote:Thanks for all the good info!! Maybe I will pull the tubes and try gluing them
When I bought my new wheels this year I spent a lot of time researching this as I didn't want to drill the wheels if I didn't have to !4 inch wide wheels, 14-32's slicks). I was told if I run tubes you MUST drill wheels or risk ripping valve stem out of the tube and wrecking the car. If running tube-less seal the sidewalls with dawn soap mixed with a little water. Clean tire bead with lacquer thinner, scuff inside wheel bead with red sanding pad and clean with lacquer thinner. install tire on rim and carefully brush "high-tac" sealer on bead. Inflate slick to 20-25 pounds or tire to 35-40 pounds and let sit for 24 hours if possible. Set pressure where desired and go racing. Mine have moved approximately 1/4 inch in 4 races. The shop that mounted mine took extreme care when mounting and I had very little clean-up but I did so with some brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. The way it looks I will never drill a set of wheels again. My 60 foots are in the 1.38 range.
No problem. Better safe than sorry.
