Wow....IMHO, that's way too complicated...
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...and figuring HP off fuel jets and pressure does not work...it would be like figuring HP off what jets you have in your carb....
IMHO, people make this way too complicated....Here's how I explain it to people....the nitrous jet is how much power you could potentially make and you use the fuel jet to to richen or lean it out until it makes the most HP for that nitrous jet...just like a naturally aspirated motor, it pumps an X amount of air through it (nitrous jet) and it's our job as tuners to change the carb jetting (or fuel jet) to get the most HP out of our naturally aspirated motor....
When you go up on nitrous jet, you will naturally move more air and make more power just like going up on cubic inches or more cylinder head will naturally move more air and make more power in a naturally aspirated motor...
So, all you have to do is pick a nitrous jet for how much power you want and then keep leaning it out until it stops gaining trap speed....ANYTHING you do that makes more trap speed means it was the right direction to go...(just like naturally aspirated tuning).....
Having said that....they key to consistent results and being able to even bracket race with nitrous is to keep the bottle temp consistent every pass....the best way is to use a water bath set to 100*....and purge to 950lbs before you stage.....
Now, the kicker is timing which gives a lot of people a hard time...ALL you have to do is keep it out of detonation...so, if it were me, I'd start out at 28* with a 100 shot and 25* on a 150 shot....then lean it out 2 numbers at a time until it stops gaining trap speed....then AFTER that, add 1* at a time until it stops gaining trap speed....(again, this is exactly the same process as tuning n/a because, after all, even though you're spraying, it's still just an n/a motor)...
Most everyone knows that if the air gets better we need to pull a degree or two of timing while tuning a naturally aspirated motor...and if the air gets better, we're realistically only picking up 5-15HP....now imagine the air got so much better that we actually picked up 100hp...How much timing would you have to pull then?...any time the oxygen content in the air is higher, we have to remove timing because oxygen is an accelerant and that's the reason we don't spray pure oxygen...
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Also, changing the flowing fuel pressure is a VERY SMALL tuning move..Moving the fuel pressure 1 pound would be like changing you n/a carb jetting 1 number....and if you were in the high 10 a/f ratio moving one jet size smaller wouldn't do very much...
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If you have an O2 sensor and your car runs the best around 12.5 to 1 A/F, just keep leaning it out until it reads in the mid 12's on spray....even if you're spraying in Denver or at Atco, just change the fuel jetting to be in the mid 12's...(just make sure to pull a few degrees of timing when going to Atco!!)..
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It's really that simple...