Quote:which would be 14.7:1.
One big advantage of running methanol is that too rich loses very little power (compared to gas).
What is occasionally described as "perfect" is the stoichiometric ratio, which is what proportions of air and fuel are needed for there to be none of either substance left over when combustion is complete. It's interesting to read, but has no practical application.
Quote:Don't waste your time and money trying to find the perfect tune on the engine dyno, we don't race dyno's
Running Ron's Terminators on alcohol with 15.5 CR whats the perfect air/fuel ratio? While on dyno might as well get everything as close to "Perfect" as possible,I have been doing my tuning by the ET slips but while I'm spending the Big $$$ for the dyno time I want to get all I can.
Get it close to max so you have a base line to start with,make sure and get the weather data, baro. pressure, temp and humidity as well as the actual altitude of the dyno cell your using, then when you put the motor back in tha car you have a decent starting point 
The type of alcholol can vary batch to batch so make sure you have a alcholol hydrometer to keep track of the specific gravity of the alcholol you buy and then tune off of the time slip and spark plug 
If your going to use a wide ban system to tune off of make sure you buy the correct NTK brand and part number sensor for alcholol, they are not as cheap as the Bosch and other gasoline sensors so don't be suprised on the price of them 
There worth the extra money if you want a very accurate reading from your AFR system
Quote:Quote:which would be 14.7:1.
One big advantage of running methanol is that too rich loses very little power (compared to gas).
What is occasionally described as "perfect" is the stoichiometric ratio, which is what proportions of air and fuel are needed for there to be none of either substance left over when combustion is complete. It's interesting to read, but has no practical application.
Quote:Quote:Quote:which would be 14.7:1.
One big advantage of running methanol is that too rich loses very little power (compared to gas).
What is occasionally described as "perfect" is the stoichiometric ratio, which is what proportions of air and fuel are needed for there to be none of either substance left over when combustion is complete. It's interesting to read, but has no practical application.
All of the posts above yours were refering to methanol. 14.7 is stoic for gasoline which is much different than meth. Besides stoic is a lab experiment not a drag race. Like Poly said "it has no practical application". You'll find 440jim's numbers far more useful.
Quote:Trust me. I run a Ron's Toilet.
But with a Ron's alcohol injection, a good starting point is
Lambda = 0.835
Methanol scale = 5.35 (5.2 to 5.5)
Gasoline scale = 12.3 (12.0 to 12.6)
Quote:
whatever the sparkplug tells you.
Quote:Quote:
whatever the sparkplug tells you.
Correction.....Whatever the MPH on the ET slip shows you....
IMHO the only reason to look at plugs is to make sure that they all look the same so you know that they're all getting an equal amount of air and fuel to each cylinder...and to look for signs of detonation if you're on running on the edge of barely having enough octane to keep you out of detonation...
Quote:
he's on a engine dyno
whatever makes the most hp is usually what you shoot for although that sometimes isn't the fastest way down the track and if the car leaves very hard the tuning process starts all over again at the track...
Quote:In my car with alcohol injection, I found slightly richer made more torque and improved the ET in the very beginning 60, 330. But slightly leaner made more mph, ie hp. But still in the ranges I posted.
As you know, it's the same process....
I always say the ET slip is the only True tuning tool.But it will be nice to have a little more insight going into the dyno session.
Quote:Quote:In my car with alcohol injection, I found slightly richer made more torque and improved the ET in the very beginning 60, 330. But slightly leaner made more mph, ie hp. But still in the ranges I posted.
As you know, it's the same process....
If it was me, I would record the fuel curve (and tq/hp) vs rpm for several barrel valve bypass pills. That way you know what each change will do at the track. Typically in those systems, a 4 number change (76 to 80) in the bypass pill is one step; but a 2 number change could be optimal.
I may have to try something other than the Champion plugs to see if I can get a better reading of them.