a-body front suspension/steering

Put a set of struts on it... cheapest and lightest
way to go

BOBSPROFAB---this is the 1/2 kit,i did not get the tubulor k-frame & rack---yet
70 dart B1MC N/A 8.80s @ 155-3350lb 10.5 tire
i love it,went right together no problems

are you using a rack or a stock box?

My Duster runs in the low tens and the high nines occasionally, it has the 1973 and later A body stock disc brakes, upper and lower control arms and ball joints, stock bushings and so on. I replaced all the wear items like the brakes, bushings, bearings, seals and ball joints. Are you wanting to lighten it up, make it stronger or what?

I run a similar car, A-body duster 10.10 at 134 and the stock front end can be a pain. The control arms and the a-arms all have play in them even after replacing many of them, the stock drum brakes don't help either. All those rubber parts, play havok with reaction times if your a foot brake racer.

Running the tubular stuff in my other car I do know removes a lot of the play and increases adjustability. I would go with Bob's as well with what you can afford, and go from there.

im really just trying to make sure the car can handle goin nines on stock stuff,side note i just bought the car and it had an alterKation set up in it but was sold before i got it. the front suspension was just put in loose to get it on trailer. so if im gonna make a move i might as well do it now.

I never understood the notion that it takes the spending of thousands of dollars on trick front ends in order to get a Mopar to handle. My street driven Duster (which HEMIFRED now owns) ran low 9's with mostly stock steering and front suspension components. The only exceptions were changing from torsion bars to coil overs, but that was done to increase space for the 2-1/4" headers. Also, I went with tubular A-arms for two reasons, so the coil overs could fit properly, and for the ability to dial in more positive caster. Lastly, I had the steering box rebuilt by Steer n Gear, which eliminated all of the sloppiness and made a big difference in steering feel. As far as the K-frame was concerned, it was left stock. That's it. I could drive it on the top end of a 9-teens pass with one finger on the wheel.

i went 8.90s with the stock susp for the past 2 years--this past winter i got the half kit from bobs--i still use the stock str box.
i havent had time to "dial" in the coil overs yet---its been upper 90 degrees and i'm not going out to the track in this heat,we did get to got out in april and off the trailor it went 8.86--so my initial set up must have been close

Been 9.16 @ 145 with a stock front.

Only aftermarket parts are shocks and strut rods.

well hopefully carlisle will have what i need this weekend i do really like the coil over set up just cant swing the tab.right now. thanks guys

Super stock hemi cars going 8.20's@160 with stock front ends.

The key to good handling is to have good parts in the front end and a good alignment I like to see as much postive caster as I can get and zero camber with the front end raised up one inch from static, all alignments made with the drivers weight in the front seat and a full tank of fuel, car ready to race also, tire pressures and all the little details laike that. I like to have no more than 1/16 inch toe in with the front end raised up one inch also. Do the research on toe patterns for your frontend and correct it if needed Good luck

run as much caster you can get, stock 6 cyl suspension ,158 mph no problem

i took every thing out and apart to just rebuild it and the kframe is now welded up and i just added some loops to pull it up onto trailer. i do have the small block torsion bars already.so i guess just making the stock parts a little stronger is what ill do.