1st time on track little dissapointed

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Thanks for the reply, i don't really want to get lower gears but i was thinking of a 28" tall tyre would that get the gearing down enough? Was also trying to get a higher stall but don't want to buy new just yet because thinking of upgrading the cam.

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Hay Kevin, yes it's been two years since i got the car and had a ball racing again as it's been about twenty years between runs. The car weighs 3630 with me in, standard springs that have been reset down, with kyb gas adjustable shocks on rear and standard shocks on the front. It launched fairly even and straight.

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I agree on the duration being big for you...get the front
loose so it will lift and transfer the weight.. that
will help your 60'(your probably spinning with a 1.72)

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1) 60' is too slow ( gear and converter plus.....)
2) carb is too big
3) I dont think the cam is that big of a problem
( at this point, albeit a 496 could handle more cam, but you dont have a lot of compression, so there is a compromise going on there)

Work on 60' first, then the rest will come around. Your MPH indicates low 11's, but wont get there with that 60'

Make one change at a time. Dont overcam the heads, if they havent really been ported.

What LSA is the cam, and how is it installed?

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The info of the internals of the motor are what the bloke i bought it off said it was so i can only go on this but the cam is degreed at
-3.0 and with 114lc thats all i got in that regards. The ignition is an electronic msd unit with 6a box and blaster 2 coil. I did have the car on a chassis dyno before i raced it and the a/f ratio was good but it did only manage 385 rwhp at it's best.

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With the specs you said, that cam is for a blower engine...
you dont want a 114 LSA cam and with that duration
your cylinder pressure is WAY down... the piston is
up to far in the bore when the intake valve closes

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The info of the internals of the motor are what the bloke i bought it off said it was so i can only go on this but the cam is degreed at
-3.0 and with 114lc thats all i got in that regards. The ignition is an electronic msd unit with 6a box and blaster 2 coil. I did have the car on a chassis dyno before i raced it and the a/f ratio was good but it did only manage 385 rwhp at it's best.

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Wow. With that info I agree with the others! It's time for a cam swap!

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Is it worth the time in advancing that cam if the duration is to wide? or should i change it out? I don't have anymore info on it then what i've listed. I thought i had the tune down pretty good from the chassis dyno. I did try different launch rpm's and shift points. I do understand that the 60' is critical and until i sort that it's gonna be slow. With a correct cam for this engine wouldn't it be ideal to have the heads flowed?

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Hey all, i had my 70 Cuda out for the first time at an 1/8th mile track on the weekend and was a little disappointed on the results. I know this can be open ended question but can you give me some ideas on what i can do to get the times lower.
The best time was 7.57 at 92.98 mph and 60ft 1.72.
A few of the other runs were close to that area as well.
Now the combo is
496rb
10.5 compression
flat tappet .565" lift on both and .274 deg @ .50
eddy rpm performer heads with light porting (no flow numbers)
440 victor intake
1050 quick fuel carb 4150
converter stalls around 3500 (unsure)
727 full manual
3.91 diff gears
295/65r15 mickey thompson et's
So any thoughts?

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Pretty amusing - all those replies about tossing a bunch of parts or changes at the car, and NOBODY asked 1 important question - what are you running for exhaust?
The ET times and chassis dyno numbers are spot on for your combo if you are still running manifolds or a restrictive exhaust. I've seen the cheap repop chrome exhaust tips with only about a 2" inlet pipe choke a healthy big block up pretty badly.

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I will probaly change my tyres for the strip anyway because i got bit carried away with the burnouts and took a fair bit off my normal drive tyres. I will definately sort the cam area. It's great being a part of this forum the help is fantastic!

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Ah yes, the big Auzzie burnouts eh? Showing off to the Sheila's watching?! Everyone loves a big burnout! hard on the tire life though!

I think you are headed in the right direction. A set of 28" tall tires for starters. I would look at suspension stuff too. The cam isn't perfect, but I think the combo has a bit more in it. Look at a GM LS7 in the C6 ZO6... it is running 120LSA, and it isn't a boosted or sprayed deal.

-Kenny

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There's a lot of posts suggesting jacking the camshaft around - yet nobody has mentioned that would be foolish without seeing what kind of valve clearance you have now. Just because it should have clearance with the parts listed doesn't mean it does . Since you don't really know whats inside the motor and are going on the sellers word, I'd stick with tuning carb, timing, suspension, tire pressures etc., before I would mess with a cam degree change that may break a bunch of parts.

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I have a brand new big solid roller for a 59 degree small block sitting on the shelf because she no fit. I knew it would be close. Turned out I had about -.005" clearance on the intake valve So, Logically, I bought a second car to build around the camshaft... it's going to be a while before I use that cam. OR we can always use it in a customer's car.

-Kenny

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Turned out I had about -.005" clearance on the intake valve

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that's not enough.

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Hay Kevin, yes it's been two years since i got the car and had a ball racing again as it's been about twenty years between runs. The car weighs 3630 with me in, standard springs that have been reset down, with kyb gas adjustable shocks on rear and standard shocks on the front. It launched fairly even and straight.

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Hmmm. Twenty years....Maybe go back to the track a couple more times just to get more seat time and your driving skills sorted out....launch, shift points maybe a couple of carb adjustments before you go making engine changes.

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Now the combo is
496rb
10.5 compression
flat tappet .565" lift on both and .274 deg @ .50
eddy rpm performer heads with light porting (no flow numbers)
440 victor intake
1050 quick fuel carb 4150
converter stalls around 3500 (unsure)
727 full manual
3.91 diff gears
295/65r15 mickey thompson et's
So any thoughts?

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Is it worth the time in advancing that cam if the duration is to wide? or should i change it out? I don't have anymore info on it then what i've listed. I thought i had the tune down pretty good from the chassis dyno. I did try different launch rpm's and shift points. I do understand that the 60' is critical and until i sort that it's gonna be slow. With a correct cam for this engine wouldn't it be ideal to have the heads flowed?

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Flowing the heads would cost money that you could be putting into the cam.
I would change the cam out with one that has a 106 to 108 lobe separation angle, and a duration at .050 of around 260 to 270 @ .050" lift, preferrably 260 for great mid range torque.
Advance it 4 degrees if it doesn't already come that way (advance ground in)and hang on.
You're converter will stall higher, you won't have to change gear or tire.

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The cam, compression, head work and converter all effect on another, and the dominator is going to like lots of stall. In order of what to do, I would go with a cam first, compression and some port work next, then match the converter with plenty of stall to work well with the dominator. Gears would come last, as they won't be worth near as much in ET gain if the converter is stalling up where it needs to be.