Posted By: MattW
Mopar Action article 9 1/4 - 05/06/12 02:45 PM
Does anyone have the June 2012 mag about the 9 1/4 buildup and if so what was said?
Any groung breaking info? Thanks Matt
Any groung breaking info? Thanks Matt
Quote:Looking for the same thing
Does anyone have the June 2012 mag about the 9 1/4 buildup and if so what was said?
Any groung breaking info? Thanks Matt
Quote:
They put some special c-clip Eliminator bearing in it which required a retube with special housing ends. Used a trutrac diff. Apparently you can use 8.75/Dana adjustable bearings with custom tubes also.
Quote:I've been running my 9 1/4 for about 5 years now with no problems ( mid 11 second car ). Heard all the "C" clip horror stories - and maybe some are true . Obviously thats a drawback to using that diff ( along with the fact that they don't make a spool for it ). Otherwise, it's a very strong diff and would easily handle a 10 second car IMO. Just seems to me that the cost to have it modified for bearing retained axles would be more than just switching to a Dana or a Ford 9"? I'm in the process of updating my drive shaft to use 1350 joints ( replacing the existing 7260 joints - which have also been trouble free for 5 years )and gotta make a diff decision.Quote:
They put some special c-clip Eliminator bearing in it which required a retube with special housing ends. Used a trutrac diff. Apparently you can use 8.75/Dana adjustable bearings with custom tubes also.
I was thinking of cutting the ends an using a sealed Bearing BR20 with the appropriate housing ends.
Wonder why the retube it.
Quote:From who? Also don't think anyone is making a 9 1/4 diff yoke that will accept a 1350 U-joint ( just got a "no" reply from "Moser" ).
I believe a spool is in the works.
Quote:I guess so. E-mail heading your way.
Sounds like you're dealing with the wrong company.
Forged steel 1350 U-bolt yoke kit $70
Custom 31 spline axles $385 pair assembled
Billet housing ends $70 pair
Crush sleeve eliminator kit $25
Please E-mail for more information doctordiff@gmail.com
Thanks,
Cass
Quote:How bout a spool?
Sounds like you're dealing with the wrong company.
Forged steel 1350 U-bolt yoke kit $70
Custom 31 spline axles $385 pair assembled
Billet housing ends $70 pair
Crush sleeve eliminator kit $25
Please E-mail for more information doctordiff@gmail.com
Thanks,
Cass
Quote:Quote:I've been running my 9 1/4 for about 5 years now with no problems ( mid 11 second car ). Heard all the "C" clip horror stories - and maybe some are true . Obviously thats a drawback to using that diff ( along with the fact that they don't make a spool for it ). Otherwise, it's a very strong diff and would easily handle a 10 second car IMO. Just seems to me that the cost to have it modified for bearing retained axles would be more than just switching to a Dana or a Ford 9"? I'm in the process of updating my drive shaft to use 1350 joints ( replacing the existing 7260 joints - which have also been trouble free for 5 years )and gotta make a diff decision.Quote:
They put some special c-clip Eliminator bearing in it which required a retube with special housing ends. Used a trutrac diff. Apparently you can use 8.75/Dana adjustable bearings with custom tubes also.
I was thinking of cutting the ends an using a sealed Bearing BR20 with the appropriate housing ends.
Wonder why the retube it.
Quote:Just bought a 1350 u-joint size 9 1/4" pinion yoke from him to upgrade my driveshaft. I'm might by the upgraded "C" clip axles from him also. Wish they made a spool for it. I'm presently running a detroit locker in mine - and I don't like it much. Car does "odd" burnouts at times - like both sides aren't locked in. Car launches ok though ( both sides locked ). The locker is new and I had it checked out - it's in good working order. I also have a spicer clutch style sure grip that I had rebuilt extra tight. I might put that back in.Quote:Quote:I've been running my 9 1/4 for about 5 years now with no problems ( mid 11 second car ). Heard all the "C" clip horror stories - and maybe some are true . Obviously thats a drawback to using that diff ( along with the fact that they don't make a spool for it ). Otherwise, it's a very strong diff and would easily handle a 10 second car IMO. Just seems to me that the cost to have it modified for bearing retained axles would be more than just switching to a Dana or a Ford 9"? I'm in the process of updating my drive shaft to use 1350 joints ( replacing the existing 7260 joints - which have also been trouble free for 5 years )and gotta make a diff decision.Quote:
They put some special c-clip Eliminator bearing in it which required a retube with special housing ends. Used a trutrac diff. Apparently you can use 8.75/Dana adjustable bearings with custom tubes also.
I was thinking of cutting the ends an using a sealed Bearing BR20 with the appropriate housing ends.
Wonder why the retube it.
I like the 9 1/4 rear plenty out there but do not know if it is worth the hassle.
Seems like Cass has some good info.
Quote:
No one carries an off-the-shelf 9.25" spool.
Supposedly, Summers Bros will make a custom spool for $500-$600, however.
Quote:Quote:
No one carries an off-the-shelf 9.25" spool.
Supposedly, Summers Bros will make a custom spool for $500-$600, however.
Or in a pinch if the posi unit is built like the one I had in a Dana years ago, (two halves, bolts together, friction plates) you can figure out just how thick an extra shim it takes to in effect, lock it up. In the case of the Dana, it took one cut up 3lb coffee can lid!
Quote:That has crossed my mind. Just a little "wossed out" to try it.Quote:Quote:
No one carries an off-the-shelf 9.25" spool.
Supposedly, Summers Bros will make a custom spool for $500-$600, however.
Or in a pinch if the posi unit is built like the one I had in a Dana years ago, (two halves, bolts together, friction plates) you can figure out just how thick an extra shim it takes to in effect, lock it up. In the case of the Dana, it took one cut up 3lb coffee can lid!
why not just weld the spiders together?
Quote:
I took the top and bottom gears right out and welded the side gears to the carrier. The problem is they are a c-clip axle so if you ever have one break you are pretty much screwed!
Quote:Quote:
I took the top and bottom gears right out and welded the side gears to the carrier. The problem is they are a c-clip axle so if you ever have one break you are pretty much screwed!
that's what disc brakes are for!