girdle install question

When i put my girdle in my 440 i torque down the mains, then shim to the girdle then put nuts on the studs to hold the girdle? I bought mine 3-4 ish years ago installed it, and upon rebuilding my engine i have no idea where my instructions are...

also i always had a oil leak between the girdle and the block, does anyone run a oil pan gasket between the girdle and the block?

and lastly is it common to put some sort of sealer under the rear main seal? in the little trough? or just put it and oil the side touching the crank?

i used rtv under the girdle the gasket will rais it too much.i believe the gap at tha pan rail will be .003 or less.

I used the gray sealer on my girdle between the block. I can't stop the seepage!!

once it leaks it has made a path and has to be redone.i use ultra copper but not that it matters.[ultra or 100% silicone clear]i found that useualy the tuneup made it leak so check yours from ring blowby,timing or fuel.

You might try Yahmabond or a similar crankcase sealer that hey use on motorcycle engines. On my big stroker Harley I had to go with that instead of base gasket for the cylinders. To much pressure would blow the base gasket out. A Harley race engine builder told me to use the Yamhabond, no more leaks or gasket blow out.

Yep...Yamabond/Hondabond/Threebond are all the same thing. The only way I've ever found to seal the bottom end on a Harley.For some reason it never occured to me to use it on my cars.....

The Right Stuff will seal it... as for instructions, Hughes Engines has a nice tech article on there web site.

as luck has it i have HONDABOND, i love that stuff....

any idea what i torque the girdle to mains to? ft-lbs???? i did my mains at 100 as per ARP stud instructions, but i don't know what to do for the girlde

What brand of girdle do you have? On mine the machine shop decked the pan rail and main caps so there wasn't any shimming needed, just torqued the main studs, put on some sealer on the pan rails and torqued the girdle studs and pan rail nut studs. no leaks.

i bought it a few years ago i want to say i spent 300-400 on it, and its black colored..... It also came with ARP fasteners...
i do have to shim , but have no idea what to take the nuts to on the girdle itself.

OK, Is your block drilled for 4 bolt caps or are the girdle studs just screwed into the caps? I seem to remember a set up that needed shims on top of the main stud nuts.

Iv doweled my girdle to the pan rail, helps secure my girdle to the block, and so far has no leaks

this one is a 440 source unit I had to slightly modify it around the 1/2" pick up, the next engine build has a chenoworth

the source is a 1/4" plate while the Chenoworth is 3/8"

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/HUG7380KN.pdf

i remember those instructions, that is the kit i have! thank you very much!!!

Hope its not blow-by! I just put this engine together. I still need to set the timing. My return from the turbo runs into the stock fuel pump location. The girdle seems to be a bit higher than the oil pan would have been. After I installed the timing cover I neglected to double check the dowl pin on the passenger side and the cover nippled out a bit below the dowl. I am assuming that with the turbo return flowing a large amount of oil to the area beside the timing chain therefore flooding it with oil making it come out more?? I gotta get the timing cover off and correct that leak then see if the girdle is still seeping. It may be the oil running down the pan rail from the cooling fan blowing it to the rear.