Replacing sending unit in-cab tank

'79 W150 with in cab tank (yes I promise factory unit on a 1979). My unit is leaking from the top fuel feed nozzle. I THINK it's a pretty straight forward job. Disconnect battery, disconnect wire to sending unit, tap lock ring counter clockwise to loosen, pull out sending unit, put on new rubber gasket, feed in new unit, lock ring by turning clockwise, reconnect wire then battery. Is it this simple? New unit already has sock on it. I'll index it the same as the old one. Thanks. Never installed new one before but with it right at top of tank, seems like it should be a no-brainer, which is perfect for me

I circled where mine was leaking

Easy job and no need to disconnect the battery. The sending unit wire is a ground.

Thank you!

Just make sure the "O" ring is in the proper location before you tighten the lock ring or you could cut the "O" ring.

It is safer if you use a brass or plastic tool to tap on the ring with. Don't want to create any sparks if you can help it.

That makes sense stumpy, good tip. Thank you very much.

Got it, thank you. I was wondering if it'll try and turn with the lock ring and bind up. As I said, first one I've done because most aren't so easy to get to. Hopefully Thursday when I'm off work.

They have tabs that locate them in the tank.

Oh good thank you.

Did you think about putting some JB weld around that line where it leaks? Usually the original senders are better then the afternarket ones are.

I didn't know or think about still having in cab tanks in 79.

I did consider JB weld or similar just to keep it on road until I replace, but it might be a permanent solution . I also looked for a NOS one on ebay, but none right now. I too am leery of aftermarket ones, but this particular seller has sold 100's with 100% feedback, so I decided to take a chance, and he has a 30 day return policy. Hope I don't regret it.

If it were mine I'd clean it up and silver solder that area.

I can't solder worth a darn lol. I know it's not rocket science but no experience, and last time I tried I just rolled the bead around everywhere but where I wanted it. I'll keep the old sending unit in case new one has to be sent back.

With dual tanks

Just my own opinion, but I like the new sending units. The new ones are made from stainless steel (usually) so they do not have the rust pinhole issues the original ones do from condensation in the tank.

And soldering or using JB Weld to fix the leak he has, might just be a bandaid for an undetected internal rust issue along the section of pickup tube still in the tank.

I have pulled some that had either lost a good 6" or so of tube into the tank, or had so many pinholes that they wouldn't pickup fuel anymore. Probably from being parked for long periods of time and allowing the condensation to remain at a set level and do its work.

Thanks. New one is definitely stainless. I'll get new sock filter this way also, and as I wrote before seller has sold a ton of these and 100% feedback

I've always found the senders rust from the outside and usually leaks from around the lines is from the solder or other problems.

I guess the other plus of new is you know there will be no problems with the float and with the luck I have I'd skip the new sender and then it's not available anymore when I need it. I've read a ton of problems over the years with aftermarket senders not reading properly or being erratic etc.

I did have problems with spectra aftermarket senders. And I have also read about problems with them from other people using them. I am keeping my fingers crossed on this one...not a spectra and lots of good feedback. At least it’s very easy to get to with no dropping the tank and I will send it right back for refund if bad and go plan B. which probably will be finding NOS

vansauto.com sells sending units for a wide variety of the truck applications and any I have used has the correct ohm rating to show the correct level.

Larry this is a 15 minute job just do it.

I understand the sentiment but I’m still waiting on part anyway. Should be here today or tomorrow.

New one I bought says all are tested for proper ohms for accuracy and quality.

Looking again at my current one I believe someone installed lock ring upside down?

It is on right but not tight.

Thanks

You sure? I just removed it. Ring was bent down at lip as if to make it fit under locking lip on tank

You are correct, it was on Upside down

Yup my bad. I Thought by the picture it looked to be ok. You would think it would be a no brainer on which way it goes. First time for everything.

The guy that had the truck before me left a lot of things half-azzed. Thanks for assist.

I installed sender and lock ring (proper way this time) and now I realize wire was supposed to have a push on connector like one in this picture but it's long gone. I'd like to find another but no luck local parts store or Feebay. I've googled "push on connectors" and so far I don't find. Any specialties stores online anyone knows of? Driving around town looking doesn't sound fun. Stud is M5 - .08. Thanks.

go to a napa and find the electrical connector guru or book. some ford temp/oil sending units are the same style but not overshielded like that one. i have used them before with great success.

I have used butt connecters to replace push on terminals.

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I wondered about the oil sending unit connectors but none of them list a size. I used to have a bunch of the stuff and I just recently decided to make some more room in the garage and of course now I need one LOL. I tried a connector and nut but the nut does not tighten down tight. I’m going to try o/p sender next 👍

Pricy but it would work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192938234195?

I wouldn’t mind spending this and if the oil sending unit ones aren’t the right size I’ll give this a try. I’m ready to be done with this and move on to other things. I didn’t plan on this being a project. Thanks again.

the one from napa will be a tad smaller but have threads inside it to hold it on tight so it wont lose connection. i have done this before .works great.

One from the older single wire engine coolant sensors should also work.

I've also used a but conncetor on those things before and squished them with pliers a bit if they were too loose.

Found one on Feebay with help of seller of sending unit. It's listed for A-B-C body cars as repair wire but will fit my truck sender. Woo hoo. I tried all kinds of searches but none included A-B-C body so it didn't come up. $15 and on the way.

The plug from vansauto feels very high quality, factory style and fits very snug AND as you can see came with lengthy wire. So glad I was directed there. If yours needs replacing I highly recommend this one and it was under $20. No more gas smell even when the tank is full and I’m getting accurate readings.

Good deal.