440 in a 79 truck

Has anyone tried using the 68-70 HP exhaust manifolds on this swap.? Will the driver side hit the firewall?

I've always heard the exhaust clearance issue was the steering column. Or valve cover to booster.

I guess I’ll have till stick it in there to see what I can use. Got four options, headers (don’t really want to use) truck manifolds (one has pitted flange) C-body HP manifold and the ones I mentioned. I want them to come straight down to tie into the Lil Red exhaust

I think they hit the frame.

That’s not good

I have a pair of BB 440 manifolds from my 75 Power Wagon. I installed headers for a few extra HPs..... Headers are a tight fit which I find strange given the overall size of the truck.

i used HP manifold on my 78 440 truck and the drivers side hit the fire wall, went to chrome shorty headers, had to notch the frame, no big deal ....lol

Thanks what I need to hear, I have a C-body hp manifold that exits over top of the starter between 5&7. Might end up using the truck headers then figure how to get the pipe back to the Lil Red upright pipes.

Well bad luck, pulled the exhaust manifold off the 440 that’s sat in my heated garage for 25 years. Found rats nests (a lot of dirt too) in the ports down around open valve and maybe down in the cylinder. Heads gotta come off now to check for damage. I had the six pac intake bolted on for many years the removed it thinking I would sell, maybe 10 years ago, stuck a another intake on it but no carb. Didn’t think!

I suggest a set of hedman 79250 truck headers fit 2x & 4x4 truck chassis good fit and tuck up in the frame rails. would not be hard to hook to some LRE stacks

I have a SB 85 stepside with some headmans, 2.5 pipes magnaflow muffs turns out right at the middle of the steps and pipes are up in the frame rails...I wish I had a set of stacks

I think you can do a BB truck same way with ease.

I have an old set of headers but have no idea who made them. I can try them once I get the engine down in the frame.

for hedman look for the part # on the flange. often light stamp and over 5 & 7 cyl flange area.

FYI...they do say a set of BB B-body headers fit but need the top of frame trimmed/notched to fit them in the truck chassis. I do not recommend it myself when you can just pony up around 200 bux and have a nice set that are for a truck chassis. IMHO, spark plug wire routing is a headache with those B -body tubes and the 79250 use the same stock wire routing as a 78 440 d200 non a/c with a set of center dump manifolds. all run behind the tubes ez pz.

ALSO..speaking of manifolds you can get 2 of the stock center dump manifolds from a MH/truck chassis. I did this with the first 440 truck swap. I figured they were as = flow as stock manifolds get. those shorty center dump headers are about the same flow and shape/size.

I still have a pair of center dump big block that came off a D100 (yes....D100) that was a 440 I parted out years and years ago. Nothing I am ever going to use.

I have a pair of the center dump manifolds but the outlet hole is only 2-1/4 (thought of reaming it out a little to 2–1/2) one will have to have the port face surfaced, has some pitting. Off a motor home too. At least the dip stick tube will bolt up to it too.might have bought the wrong engine mounts, I’ll try posting a picture to let y’all see.

the mounts should be the straight BB set 77-78 truck chassis.

yep I had to fab a piece to weld on my dip tube so it worked same spot with headers. but rust got it and had to fab another tube with tab for mounting out of flared steel line.

yes open up the outlet and I myself just use the copper RTV on the manifold after a good cleaning with brake clean on head/manifold surfaces. I have used some really pitted up manifolds before and the trick is to use the copper rtv and let it cure 24hrs before use. fat bead around ports and hand snug the bolts, 24hrs cure time and torque to specs. never leaks.

I coat my header gaskets and do the same thing for no leaks for yrs.

you know it can be addictive with the BB truck stuff right? I lowered/flip shackle/axle under spring & tubbed both of mine and have a-body 8 3/4 tucking 12 wide rims with a 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders (bolt in with shackle flip) and e-body 8 3/4 in the other tucking 10" wide rims.

hope to go B-body 4 speed in the near future on the 88 440 truck. see one thing leads to another.

What I have,

Did you lower the front and how?

does both headers have that #79250? then you have a set.

front end? no. it is at stock ride height. 235/75/15 on a 8" wide 4.5 backset rim. I run a stock sway bar and it just does clear a parking stop by 1/8" - 1/4 (remember that when you lower it and run a sway bar) (and a sway bar is a BIG IMPROVMENT on steering/handling with a BB up front.

the trick there is to use the 1/2 ton pocket LCA off of vans on the front to lower it.

for you engine mounts. IIRC those are BB 65-71 2x truck chassis which may work on a mid 80s am I not sure. the 4x4 mount looks like that but has more offset and a hole for the oil pump plug clearances. I have a set of those and a 4x4 set but only have used the 4x4 set on a 86 chassis. fit was correct with them.

post if you test fit them.

They have that oil pump hole, but I can make another slot behind the one it has, plenty of room or just drill another hole in frame too. Both headers are same make, they might be 25-30 years old (how long I’ve had them) But still in good shape. Thanks for all the info

I would mock it up in the chassis and have the trans mount/crossmember bolted up tight in the frame rails. then fit those mounts and see where it sits.

IIRC the difference is in the trans mount/crossmember location in the frame rails with a 4x4 sitting a little further back. why those mounts are offset reaching forward.

2x chassis trans sits a little forward and why the BB mounts are straight.

my 2x mounts were made from 2x4 tube stock cut/drilled copy of a stock set. so you very well could do some drilling/milling to make them work.

You have these in a 2WD now? I am looking to do a 1983 D100 with 440, these sound like the ticket perhaps. I was going to use Bouchillon, but they don't make theirs anymore. Tks.

What I’m going to do, remove the whole front sheet metal to have it easy to work on.

I didn't see what truck you're starting with.
150.250. or 350?
This matters because the frame is wider on the 350, I sure wouldn't be notching the frame unless I could reinforce it somehow.

yes, I have them on a 2x and on a 4x4 chassis with 440/727/8 3/4 the 2x is lowered/tubbed/ A-body 8 3/4 large brake offset axles with axle over spring with a rear shackle flip tucking 12" wide 4.5 BS rims with 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders.

FYI. Abody & truck chassis share same 43" spring perch centers and is a bolt in on top of spring.

shackle flip is another good mod to eliminate wheel hop on the truck chassis with axle under spring.

good ride & traction control still hauls a 440/727 in the back with out frame hitting or notches.

as far as I know the frames are the same 82-93 until 94 platform change.

the D350 has larger BJ & upper-lower control arms/bolts/mounts/springs/spindles/tie rods/center link/sway bars. the frames are thicker rails but same width as all the 100/150/250/350 cabs/core support/sheet metal are the same.

I have swapped a lot of cabs/doors/sheet metal drivetrains and only difference I ever noticed that change a few things were the holes and mounting points on the frame/chassis. they vary in size/placement depending on 100/150/250/350 chassis and models.

I will take a better look at a d350 next JY run.

My truck is a 79 Lil Red

That’s good to know on rear since I have a 67 b-body housing that has the perches redone to an a-body 43” (used in a Duster) I have 2.91 3.23 3.55 3.91 4.30 and 4.88 I can interchange