Disconnecting Ammeter (precautionary)

Thank you moparmarks. I was thinking of adding voltmeter in a semi-discrete place (I like the clean stock look) so I will do as you advise with wire.

Thanks again for valuable information.

Larry

There is a volts and vacuum gauge pod for sale in the truck parts section on this site (not mine), Just thought I would point it out to you so you could see what one looks like. The bezels were also made in wood grain finish also in case that is how your dash is.

Just put both the red and black wires under the same post of the meter. Bypasses the meter and maintains a closed circuit. No cutting, no splicing, no problems.
Might want to add a voltmeter on the bottom of the dash or someplace. Can tap off of the same post of the ammeter that the two wires are on for the hot lead to the voltmeter. Then just ground the other voltmeter lead.

The wires are the wiring from your truck, they connect to those posts. I have done this on several trucks, I just snip the ends and solder them together and wrap with heat shrink. Bypass it all!

Have you bypassed charge current through the bulkhead connector yet? That is the weakest link in the system.

Ammeter connections are a weak link but not as much as the bulkhead connector.

True story... on a '74 D200 the bulkhead connector lasted until about year 5. Then melted. Emergency bypass lasted until year 20 when the truck was retired due to frame rust. The ammeter connections lasted the life of the truck.

If the alternator and electrical loads are stock, the ammeter should be OK with thoroughly cleaned and tightened and greased connections. If you have increased loads or alternator output or both, best to bypass the ammeter also IMO.

A nice heavy wire from alternator output to the fender relay bypasses both. Fusible link 2 gauge sizes smaller than the bypass wire recommended. A voltmeter is needed with this bypass as the ammeter will not be functional.

Diagram B is exactly what I did on my truck. The volt gauge is just using 12v from the fuse box and a chassis ground.

The Red/Black splice near the ammeter is just the two ammeter wires disconnected and tied to together. Where they come through the bulkhead connector is just removing the connector and using a continuous wire through it. The bypass is just a wire run from the Alt + terminal to the starter relay + terminal.

The mad link above is pretty easy to follow. The key is making good connections. If the wire looks questionable replace it.

Diagram "B" is the Mad Electric Ammeter by-pass.....

The lower schematic is the parallel circuit method that retains the OEM Ammeter. This was something that has been recommended over the Diagram "B" by-pass by member "Nacho" on another site.

- EM

Apparently the lower diagram method is exactly what Mopar did to get around the connector / ammeter melting problem once it was discovered. In other words, this is the factory work around and allows you to retain the stock ammeter and run a volt meter if you want.

- EM