Cabinet/Wood Workers need advice.

I installed a new butcher block counter top that overhangs about 1/4" too far. Now the stove is kinda squeezed too tight.

The problem is if I remove the counter top to trim it I will have to redo a lot of finishing work I did on a seam. I want to trim it in place.

I tried to practice trim a scrap piece of the counter top with a cheap flush trim router bit from amazon I bought a while back and it was a fiasco. Glad I didn't practice on the one I need.

Any suggestions or ideas to do it right or brands of flush trim bit to buy?

I want to flush trim it to the existing installed cabinet box.

That countertop is pretty thick. Most flush trim bits that tall are going to deflect some.

Taking off 1/4" isn't very much. If it was me I'd just use my handheld belt sander, an assortment of coarse, medium, and fine belts, and some patience.

The belt sander will be very forgiving and allow you to move to finer girts as you get close to flush.

A long fluted end mill in a good router may do the trick Could like get the router at harbor freight or AMZ. End mill , Ebay or AMZ as well

If the stove still fits I'm not sure what the problem is.

A router could be rigged to trim most of it but you won't get flush to the back wall at least with conventional cutters. You might get the last few inches with a belt sander. It might not be as fine a machined finish as a router would leave but it is in an out of sight area.

Kevin

For that small amount I'd leave it alone.
Thsts the sort of thing that when I try to fix it the cut gets messed up or if I sand it it ends up wavy or something else happens that it's no longer straight and I regret it every time i see it.

I'd leave it alone. Countertops should have a small overhang.

Thanks for the advice. It isn't really noticeable in the picture but the stove is being pushed over and is sitting at an angle.

I think I am going to take the advice and not cut it. It will bug me if the counter top on the other side doesn't match so I am going to move the other cabinet so the gap matches and the stove sits level.

On a similar note. That end you see above is the end of the factory cut of the butcher block. The piece on the other side of the stove I had to trim with a circular saw. To clean up that end should I sand, pass it through my table saw or???

Thanks for the help I am not a carpenter but had to do this kitchen remodel myself.

Anything is fine till you get to the wall cutting. Not many can get close, unless you have the Fien tool. If you can leave top together but slide the whole thing out enough to get to back at the wall. Did you use T-bolts in seam?

Instead of T bolts I Screwed and Glued a wooden plate under the corner I then touched up the seem with some wood putty & Glue. That is the only reason I don't want to remove or move it now that it is installed. It looks pretty good and I don't trust my wood skills to do that twice if i mess up the seam.

Everyone here has given me some good advice, but I fear it is beyond my wood skills so I am going to leave the overhang and not trim it.

Now I have to clean up this edge. I am leaning towards a 15" long inline sander with 220 grit. I just need to take a small wave in the cut of about 1/6th inch and remove the burn marks.

This I can afford to mess up since I have another leftover slab that I can use if I need too. Also it isn't mounted so I can work on it in the driveway.

Doors and Drawer Faces are next in line after the counter top and of course backsplash.

Just buy one of the filler/trim strips that squeezes in between the counter and the stove. Fills the gap (to not let just fall down) and also creates a clean line. They are available on Amazon.

On a sad note you will come to regret using wood for a top in a few years.

You could get a piece of laminate (Arborite, etc.) and use double sided tape to temporarily attach to the side of the cabinet for a scuff guard. Mark the top with tape or whatever. Combination or adjustable square makes a nice scribe. Hit it with a beltsander and a 40-60 grit belt. Sneak up on the line with finer grits, finish with 120 ish. Remove laminate. As said, take your time and be patient, let the machine do the work.If you have a sander with a vacuum attachment, great. Might be able to hold the vac hose close to the sander.