Wood working guys, Table Saw Questions.

I had to buy a table saw for a kitchen remodel project.

There is a tab in the "guide plate"? that helps hold the plate to the table top.

It sticks up and when cutting it often lifts the wood, especially thin sheets. Is this normal or can I bend it down?

Also what is the bracket with the vertical hole in it on the back of the assembly? Is it for a guard that I do not have?

Thanks

My father was a High School wood shop teacher.

I have been in construction since I was 13 years old.

I have mentored young people & I try to teach them that the table saw deserves the ultimate respect for the sheer physical harm it can do if misused.

In those cases, I urge them to look for the book 'Blood On The Table Saw' written by Three Finger Mike.

I totally get the concern. I have taken precautions others would say are overboard.

This project has taught me that "Measure twice cut once" is for amateurs. I measure 3 times cut 4 times and then go to Lowes to get more wood. LOL

The tab can be bent down so it's flush with the deck.

The thing in back looks like it tilts with the blade, so I would assume it is for a blade guard.

There are lots of videos on youtube about tuning up/aligning and using table saws.

Find the make and model and look on line for the manual. That tab that is popping up looks like some sort of lock. What does the saw table look like where it sits?

Thanks.

I will bend it back down.

I can honestly say I have watched more videos on using a table saw than on any other single purpose.

I had a friend who had 4 fingers shortened when I was younger. He left me with a permanently etched paranoia about table saws. So all the warnings and cautions are not being ignored.

I have learned a lot from this project.

Thanks again for the help

I'd say it's an anti kick back tab, you may be able to lesson the tension with one of the screws on the bottom.

Bought a used saw, huh !!!

Why bend it down. Find out why it is not working correctly. If you look at other plates they have a finger hole to lift the plate out. Yours does not. That tab is spring loaded both ways.One holds it up for plate removal. The other way is to lock it into the table. Why ruin it. Fix it and understand its purpose.

Unfortunately the Model tag is missing.

What I do know is it is an old Model 113 10" saw.

The tab at the rear holds the back of the plate to the table and the lever/tab at the front holds the front to the table.

I have reviewed all the images of similar models and owners manuals and none of them have the tab.

It appears to be a latch to hold the front of the plate down. You have to lift the tab to remove the plate.

I wasn't finding any information on it so I figured I would ask in case I was wrong.

I have the same series 113 saw. Bolded is what it is. You'll have to look at it to see what's crooked or bent, but all it is is a latch to hold the front edge down.

Last winter I tore it down and lubed the trunions and the elevation/tilt mechanisms, and replaced the spindle bearings. It runs great now.

I still remember my high school shop days and all those educational films on safety. That looks like an old Craftsman saw we used to have. I hated it. It did not have a guard either. I used it reluctantly because my dad was too thrifty to buy a new one. Someone stole it, fortunately, before it took off a finger. I made him buy a new one with a guard. Best thing we ever did. Throw that thing away before we nickname you Stumpy. We already have a member with that name. A New saw will be a minor cost in your total kitchen remodel.

you can make your own insert out of plywood, about same thickness as you old one. Cut and fit, shim to get level if needed, and install. Slide the fence over the side, start the saw and crank the blade up, giving you a zero clearance slot. Go a little higher, and then drop the blade to where needed. Have had several of different slot sizes for years, and they work great. USE A PUSH STICK!!! Make some (a lot) out of 1/8 or 1/4 masonite or plywood, they are a consumable. Keep your fingers away from the blade!!

Don't forget to raise the blade just enough to cut thru and no more.

The metal one for the two saws I have are somewhere?! Like said above I make them out of 3/4” particular board with the laminate on one side, easy for material to slide on. I have maybe 5 for different cut sizes up to the 3/4 dado. That piece on the end is for the ‘divider’ that goes right behind the blade so board won’t ride up on blade and flip back at you (you can’t catch it, to fast). Anything less than 1-1/4 cut I use a push stick thingy, 1” x 1” stick with a big sharp nail out the end 2” the piece won’t pop up then. 55 years in the trade. Also buy the correct blade for material you’re cutting, a dull blade will hurt ya.
I’ve also seen many ‘Joe Bumbundry’ projects in my time but as long as you’re satisfied when done... btw the doors are where the money-jewelry is at.

Both of your questions have been well answered. The hole in the back very likely had a combination blade guard, splitter and anti kickback pawl contraption that is so unwieldy that they are often removed after making the first few cuts. Mine is in a bin with other rarely used table saw attachments.

Your throat plate has too wide of a slot for the blade. It was possibly made for a dado or shaper blade. Make a new one out of wood or plastic and then raise the blade up through it to make the perfect size slot. What you have now is asking for a kickback if you are ripping a narrow piece.

Years ago a kickback broke through a fingernail and put a hole my finger that exposed the bone. X-rays showed the end bone of my road rage finger was in 7 pieces. The emergency room had to call in an Ortho specialist to line everything up and splint it. Not fun. To this day that finger nail looks a little odd. Years before that episode a kickback hit me in the chest pretty hard. I remember thinking it was a good thing that piece wasn't mitered on the end.

Saw Safety Tips:. Some learned the hard way.
Caution when cutting short and/or narrow pieces. They can get cocked between the blade and the fence and get spit out.
Use chicken sticks when you can. I keep several near the saw at all times.
I use the table saw for rips and sheet goods. I hardly ever use my miter gauge. It hangs on the wall. Cross cuts and miters are so much easier and safer with a good sliding power miter saw.
If you ever need to use a radial arm saw DO NOT rip with it. It is an accident waiting to happen. Only use it like it is an old fashioned sliding power miter saw. Just because you can rip with it does not mean you should. Just don't.

Speaking of radial arm saw, I have the ‘holder’? with numerous sets of knives for making molding of profiling a board, looks to dangerous to use (over 75 years old)

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