Dealing with a Sticky subfloor Fixed - Sorta

I am putting vinyl plank laminate flooring down in my kitchen that had that cheap peel and stick vinyl tiles. Prior to them it was laminate roll floor.

The laminate planks already have backing so technically I don't need an underlayment.

The subflooor is going to need to be partially replaced and where it isn't being replaced, the tiles are damaged and have to be removed. Removing the peel and stick tiles is leaving a sticky subfloor and I know that won't work with the laminate.

Google has netted a dozen idea that would not work. i.e. WD40 the plywood and scrape. I don't want a kitchen that smells like a garage.

The baby power idea seems plausible. It would stop the floor from being sticky but I feel like I would still want to lay down a plastic barrier underlayment, since eventually the glue may absorb the baby powder and start sticking to the backing on the floor planks.

It's not a lot of glue, just that sticky tacky feeling that you would get from removing a sticker.

Any ideas?

I know you said your new flooring doesn't require an underlayment, but my suggestion is to get the best underlayment that you can find locally and put that down prior to installing your new flooring. It's pretty inexpensive and will seal off that sticky residue.

In this situation, I've always used 1/4" or 5mm Luan over the entire area and put the new flooring on that. Worked out great every time. Some might say just put a plastic sheet over the area and go with that, but this is not a job you want to do over and you want it to last for many years. Go with the Luan even though it's a little more work on the front end.

Hi there,

To remove sticky film of glue, I use sometime a little bit of crush dry ice. It will froze up the glue and it will be easy to scrap-it
Welding supply store should have some.

^^^^this^^^

Not sure how large of an area you need to clean but brake clean sometimes works well. Get the non stink type, Advance used to sell a good cleaner under there house brand wearever. Not sure if they've changed it as I went to a local solvent supplier and they supplied it in 55 gal drums at a substantial savings. Do a kwik squirt on a paper towel and if it's near odorless try it.
It is flammable so keepthat in mind

I would go to a pro flooring store that sells armstrong and ask if armstrong s-1840 floating underlayment can be used after peel and stick tile is removed. I know it can go over regular floor tile glue, they just trowel over that with Tec 200 self level, let it dry, sand, throw the 1840 and armstrong lux tile down. S-1840 is only .040 thick and comes on a roll, ours has been flawless for 10 years, on top of 1950s sticky black tile glue. I know there is an issue with some pressure sensitive glue and they replace the whole subfloor.

could you use roofing felt paper.

My vote is with the 1/4" underlay.

Why not call the MFR. of the floor you're putting down and get their recommendation preferably in writing. may came in handy if there's a warranty issue down the road

this may be the best bet.
when problems arise, it is sometimes difficult to get warrantied if the product is not installed to the letter of the manufacturer.
it is also a good idea to read the fine print to see if there is anything that can come back to bite a guy later.

Thank you for the replies.

It has kinda been solved.

I took out the cabinets to get to the rotten subfloor and discovered that the floor already had 1/4" Luan plywood on top of the subfloor. The water seeped in between the Luan and the plywood subfloor destroying about 1/2 the kitchen floor.

I will have top replace all but about 1/3 of the 1/4" plywood so the sticky will be removed by force. LOL

Now I have to deal with the subfloor where it intersects the walls. Maybe another post.

Thank you for the help and any other advice is always appreciated.

Ooof. The joys of home ownership.

This

I had to do pretty much the same thing. This tool cuts right up against the wall once you pull the trim.

maybe a bit late and astilly question but your aware that water damage is normally covered by homeowners insurance right ?

We didn't think it would be an insurance issue when we started.

We started with just wanting to replace the worn out floor tiles with waterproof Vinyl planks so I ordered them. We discovered the water leak in the cabinet when we started prepping for the floor and it snowballed from there to here.

If I have to replace the water damaged stuff myself I am only going to be out about another $600 to $800 so it isn't going to break the bank but if I do it, it will be done my way.

I am beginning to think it won't hurt to talk the insurance guy. I have pictures of all the damage before and during the tear down.

there are so many things wrong with my house that was built in 1872, the insurance company would want to tear it down and pave over the lot.
i just spent $100.00 for a Moen kitchen faucet to replace the one that was there, which worked great.
however, the plastic connection that couples the spray nozzle cracked. when we discovered it, all the "stuff" under the sink was soaked.
after 24 hours of a box fan in front of the sink, the floor and shelf under the sink was dry.
close the doors, and everything is back to "normal".